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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all,

Since there doesn't seem to be much discussion on planetisuzoo about swapping in the brake calipers for a 2004-2008 Chevrolet Colorado I thought I'd make a writeup having just successfully completed my brake swap with great results. These calipers are Isuzu's updated design that will bolt onto the 2nd gen trooper with minimal modifications.

First off a quick FAQ:
What Zu's will these brakes fit?
This guide is based around installing them on a 1992-2002 Trooper. To install them on a first gen trooper, pickup, or basically anything with the smaller rotors/dust shield, 2nd gen trooper parts will need to be swapped on. I can't guarantee that swapping these brakes onto anything other than a second gen trooper/ 2g rodeo will have the results you want. The smaller master cylinder of the 1st gen trooper/pickup may not be sufficient to operate the dual piston calipers. Many 15 inch wheels will not fit the calipers


How much more of an improvement really is it?
Prior to installing the upgraded brakes, the only figure I could find on how much better these brakes are was someone claiming "20% better" braking. I was skeptical, however combined with steel braided brake lines and Akebono pads, these dual piston front brakes seem like they really are nearly 20% improved over stock. I can definitely say for sure that my braking is better now (with a 200lb bumper added up front) than it was on stock brakes without the bumper, and I feel much more confident these will slow me down quickly in an emergency situation

What you will need:


Optional:

New rotors: Now may be a good time for you to replace the rotors as the required dust shield trimming is much easier with the hub/rotor assembly removed

Steel braided brake lines: With the upgraded calipers, upgrading the flex lines will help ensure you're getting maximum hydraulic pressure to the pistons. Lines with a braided steel casing will bulge less, and hence these dual piston brakes will work at least a little bit better. These are available for a reasonable price for both front and rears from BRF Isuzu Accessories, easiest to contact at robisuzu_gt on instagram or message Roberto on Isuzu Trader facebook page


Modification needed:

Here's a comparison between trimmed vs untrimmed right side dust shields in order to fit the Colorado calipers (if you opt to not remove it fully). It will be much more challenging to trim these dust shields with the hub/bearing assembly still attached. Edit: I think I actually had to trim a little bit more than in this photo, closer to the spindle. Don't trim it exactly like you see here and reassemble, test mount your calipers first to make it easy in case you need to trim more.


Steps:
  1. Jack up vehicle, supporting with jackstands[/*]
  2. Remove wheels[/*]
  3. Soak the caliper mount bolts with penetrant[/*]
  4. With a turkey baster or bottle pump, remove as much brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir as possible[/*]
  5. Disconnect the brake lines at the calipers. Caution: the lines will drip brake fluid once disconnected, position them over a drain pan, or bag/tape them off. Be careful to avoid getting brake fluid in your eyes, or on painted/rubber surfaces [/*]
  6. Remove caliper mount bolts and front calipers along with pads[/*]
  7. Disassemble locking hubs, [/*]
  8. remove bearing retainer with three screws on each side (highly reccomend an impact screwdriver if these screws are seized on yours)[/*]
  9. remove hub nut[/*]
  10. remove hub/rotor assembly careful not to let the front bearing fall out[/*]
  11. Optional: Repack wheel bearings: planetisuzoo - Front Bearing Repack
    (Note: I encountered fitment issues with all the aftermarket wheel seals brands I tried (Trustar, Timken, and National), therefore to save time and frustration I highly reccomend buying OEM wheel seals https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=89 ... 8980365940[/*]
  12. Optional: Replace brake rotors, using threadlocker on all 12 rotor to hub bolts and the 6 ABS tone ring bolts (if so equipped)[/*]
  13. Perform necessary dust shield trimming (likely easiest with a dremel + reinforced cutting wheel), ensuring any metal dust stays out of the wheel bearings or fully unbolt and remove the dust shields[/*]
  14. Optional: Replace brake lines, breaking loose the flare fitting with vise grips and then back it out with a 10mm open wrench. Remove the retaining clips with vice grips, and fully remove lines. [/*]
  15. Clean and grease the spindles and reinstall the hub/rotor/bearing assemblies, setting the preload as documented in the above linked article[/*]
  16. Remove the caliper slider pins from the new calipers, grease them with silicone high temp brake lubricant, and reinstall the pins with threadlocker applied to the pin retaining bolts[/*]
  17. Apply high temp brake lubricant to all shim surfaces and onto the edges of the brake pad mounting tabs, apply anti seize/grease to the back of the pads[/*]
  18. Install brake pads to new calipers and ensure pads slide freely[/*]
  19. Reassemble as normal using the new banjo bolts and mount bolts. The calipers should have come with new crush washers for the banjo bolts as well.[/*]
  20. Apply blue threadlocker to all locking hub bolts upon reassembly[/*]
  21. Refill the master cylinder reservoir[/*]
  22. Bleed the brakes with the ABS fuse removed (if so equipped) and engine running. The workshop manual states that damage will result to the brake booster if bleeding is performed with the engine off. Bleed in the order of Rear right, rear left, front right, front left.[/*]
  23. Pump the brakes a few times, reinstall the wheels and then take it for a drive to bed-in the pads/rotors[/*]

Misc. Photos:

Test fitting the banjo bolt


Painted


Installed
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
lowzone said:
NICE!! what is the brake pad part number? i didnt see it listed.
Ron

Lowzone
Knew there was something I forgot! I'll edit the post right now, thanks. The pads are for the same generation of chevrolet colorado (04-08), I went with Akebono ACT1039
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Just to add my own anecdotal experience to the above debate on whether or not the Colorado brakes will affect ABS performance: the 4 wheel ABS on my 93 trooper has gotten a lot of use these past few winters and so I got a pretty good feel for when it activates and how effective it is at stopping me when braking on sheer ice with my old brakes.
Now that the roads are icing up again, and I've had a few very slippery stops, my impression is that it seems like the ABS wants to engage more easily (ie, ABS engages with less brake pedal effort than before when stopping on sheer ice) and I also think the front wheels will lock up slightly easier than the rear wheels now, although this seems to be handled perfectly by the 4 wheel ABS.
There is no discernable difference in the troopers ability to come to a stop when hard braking on sheer ice and the ABS is still only activating when it needs to. Hard to say whether the 2-wheel ABS equipped Isuzus would handle the brake mod as well but on 4 wheel ABS it seems safe to say that the Colorado brake mod does not negatively affect ABS performance.
 

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