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I am willing to bet the new rotors, pads, stainless lines and bleeding fresh fluid into the braking system makes more of a difference than the actual calipers do. I say this knowing that a colorado 4x4 z71 club cab curb weight is 3800lbs and 2nd gen troopers are between 4200 and 4600lbs. Some people have said they are the same calipers as a full size chevy truck. They are not. I also say this because the rotor diameter isnt changing and the best way to upgrade braking is to put a larger rotor on, not clamp a small one harder (if the Colorado calipers even do). Its a great write up and most people I've seen have been happy with the swap. Since I have Colorado calipers as well, I also know the calipers are insanely close to the back of the rotors. Lastly, everyone who has done this swap seems to have high mileage rotors, worn stock pads, old brake fluid and squishy rubber lines. I would love to see a fair comparison between clean and well lubed calipers, new or resurfaced stock rotors bedded in with new stock ceramic pads, stainless lines and new fluid to the colorado calipers with stock ceramic pads before I reccomended it to anyone. I also know that even with a totally stock braking system, resurfaced rotors and EBC pads make a HUGE difference. Even the powerstop pads and rotors I had on my 94 trooper with 33x1250s stopped that thing pretty fast and held it well down hills where the back tires were lifting. Just my 2 cents. Take it or leave it, but dont take anything away from all the work he put into this write up because that is awesome.
 

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Well, the isuzu calipers ARE pricey new. I think I just paid over $100 for a new rear one !
 

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And the 02 and up dual piston rodeos/axioms have floating rotors and sealed bearings. Totally different setup.
 

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Enemigo said:
superswire said:
And the dual piston rodeos have larger rotors and unit bearings. Totally different setup.
Can you switch to those without losing the ability to use manual hubs?
No, the 02 and up dual piston setup has a sealed hub with a nut on the end of the axle much like every other typical modern car. Ive even seen folks building 02 and up rodeos swap back to the older style cvs and knuckles so they can have manual hubs.
 

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Sh_YVR said:
Interesting - looks like it might work on the 2nd gen 00RODEO - the part number for the front caliper is the same as 01Trooper..
Q: Is the pad actually larger ? (the 01+ RODEOS are completely different/2piston anyway)
i could be wrong, but im fairly sure the colorado calipers work on rodeos too if that is what you mean
 

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Regardless of what brakes you have, your abs uses a calculation between wheel speeds to simply pulse the solenoids. I don't see why you would need to reflash it.
 

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That's not how they work. They use the wheel speed sensors to detect lockup. If one wheels stops spinning, it just pulsates the pressure to that line. It basically cuts off the line pressure many times per second. And will actually over react if you have more braking because it will sense the wheel stopping and keep bypassing until it's under control. The parameters on these are simply monitoring the tone rings rotation vs vehicle and other wheel speed and reacting accordingly.
 

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It doesn't measure the hydraulic pressure or flow. the parameters that it follows is based on the stock HARWARE as well not just sensor input. Different vehicles use the same Kelsey-Hayes modules but with different software. So it is not only logical that if you alter the hardware it alters the ABS performance, but as well from other people's experience of upgrading their brakes and performance with abs or traction control gives an undesired effect. These are 'blind' upgrades, not engineered, with fingers crossed hoping for the best.

No matter how powerful your brakes are, the abs module is still going to pulse the brakes. Its not hard to understand. If it sees a wheel lock up, its going to pulse the brakes. whether you have grease on your rotors or brand new 4 piston brembos on drilled rotors, it shouldnt need to be reflashed for your abs to work.
 
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