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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

Since there doesn't seem to be much discussion on planetisuzoo about swapping in the brake calipers for a 2004-2008 Chevrolet Colorado I thought I'd make a writeup having just successfully completed my brake swap with great results. These calipers are Isuzu's updated design that will bolt onto the 2nd gen trooper with minimal modifications.

First off a quick FAQ:
What Zu's will these brakes fit?
This guide is based around installing them on a 1992-2002 Trooper. To install them on a first gen trooper, pickup, or basically anything with the smaller rotors/dust shield, 2nd gen trooper parts will need to be swapped on. I can't guarantee that swapping these brakes onto anything other than a second gen trooper/ 2g rodeo will have the results you want. The smaller master cylinder of the 1st gen trooper/pickup may not be sufficient to operate the dual piston calipers. Many 15 inch wheels will not fit the calipers


How much more of an improvement really is it?

Prior to installing the upgraded brakes, the only figure I could find on how much better these brakes are was someone claiming "20% better" braking. I was skeptical, however combined with steel braided brake lines and Akebono pads, these dual piston front brakes seem like they really are nearly 20% improved over stock. I can definitely say for sure that my braking is better now (with a 200lb bumper added up front) than it was on stock brakes without the bumper, and I feel much more confident these will slow me down quickly in an emergency situation

What you will need:


Optional:

New rotors: Now may be a good time for you to replace the rotors as the required dust shield trimming is much easier with the hub/rotor assembly removed

Steel braided brake lines: With the upgraded calipers, upgrading the flex lines will help ensure you're getting maximum hydraulic pressure to the pistons. Lines with a braided steel casing will bulge less, and hence these dual piston brakes will work at least a little bit better. These are available for a reasonable price for both front and rears from BRF Isuzu Accessories, easiest to contact at robisuzu_gt on instagram or message Roberto on Isuzu Trader facebook page


Modification needed:

Here's a comparison between trimmed vs untrimmed right side dust shields in order to fit the Colorado calipers (if you opt to not remove it fully). It will be much more challenging to trim these dust shields with the hub/bearing assembly still attached. Edit: I think I actually had to trim a little bit more than in this photo, closer to the spindle. Don't trim it exactly like you see here and reassemble, test mount your calipers first to make it easy in case you need to trim more.


Steps:
  1. Jack up vehicle, supporting with jackstands[/*]
  2. Remove wheels[/*]
  3. Soak the caliper mount bolts with penetrant[/*]
  4. With a turkey baster or bottle pump, remove as much brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir as possible[/*]
  5. Disconnect the brake lines at the calipers. Caution: the lines will drip brake fluid once disconnected, position them over a drain pan, or bag/tape them off. In general be very careful to avoid getting brake fluid on your eyes, skin, painted or rubber surfaces [/*]
  6. Remove caliper mount bolts and front calipers along with pads[/*]
  7. Disassemble locking hubs, [/*]
  8. remove bearing retainer with three screws on each side (highly reccomend an impact screwdriver if these screws are seized on yours)[/*]
  9. remove hub nut[/*]
  10. remove hub/rotor assembly careful not to let the front bearing fall out[/*]
  11. Optional: Repack wheel bearings: https://web.archive.org/web/20051217005244/https://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/56
    (Note: I encountered fitment issues with all the aftermarket wheel seals brands I tried (Trustar, Timken, and National), therefore to save time and frustration I highly reccomend buying OEM wheel seals https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=89 ... 8980365940[/*]
  12. Optional: Replace brake rotors, using threadlocker on all 12 rotor to hub bolts and the 6 ABS tone ring bolts (if so equipped)[/*]
  13. Perform necessary dust shield trimming (likely easiest with a dremel + reinforced cutting wheel), ensuring any metal dust stays out of the wheel bearings or fully unbolt and remove the dust shields[/*]
  14. Optional: Replace brake lines, breaking loose the flare fitting with vise grips and then back it out with a 10mm open wrench. Remove the retaining clips with vice grips, and fully remove lines. [/*]
  15. Clean and grease the spindles and reinstall the hub/rotor/bearing assemblies, setting the preload as documented in the above linked article[/*]
  16. Remove the caliper slider pins from the new calipers, grease then with silicone high temp brake lubricant, and reinstall the pins with threadlocker applied to the pin retaining bolts[/*]
  17. Apply high temp brake lubricant to all shim surfaces and onto the edges of the brake pad mounting tabs, apply anti seize to the back of the pads[/*]
  18. Install brake pads to new calipers and ensure pads slide freely[/*]
  19. Reassemble as normal using the new banjo bolts and mount bolts. The calipers should have come with new crush washers for the banjo bolts as well.[/*]
  20. Apply blue threadlocker to all locking hub bolts upon reassembly[/*]
  21. Refill the master cylinder reservoir[/*]
  22. Bleed the brakes with the ABS fuse removed (if so equipped) and engine running. The workshop manual states that damage will result to the brake booster if bleeding is performed with the engine off.[/*]
  23. Pump the brakes a few times, reinstall the wheels and then take it for a drive to bed-in the pads/rotors[/*]

Misc. Photos:

Test fitting the banjo bolt


Painted


Installed
 
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NICE!! what is the brake pad part number? i didnt see it listed.
Ron

Lowzone
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
lowzone said:
NICE!! what is the brake pad part number? i didnt see it listed.
Ron

Lowzone
Knew there was something I forgot! I'll edit the post right now, thanks. The pads are for the same generation of chevrolet colorado (04-08), I went with Akebono ACT1039
 

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Thanks for that great article! :thumbright:
 

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BOSCH has a new brake fluid that is non hydroscopic Bosch ESI6-32N compatible with 3,4, 5.1 lasts longer too
 

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Thanks so much for posting this. I saw it when it first went up and didn't have time to read it. Am just as thankful for the bump. Book marked and this should go straight into the Hall of Fame.
 

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I am willing to bet the new rotors, pads, stainless lines and bleeding fresh fluid into the braking system makes more of a difference than the actual calipers do. I say this knowing that a colorado 4x4 z71 club cab curb weight is 3800lbs and 2nd gen troopers are between 4200 and 4600lbs. Some people have said they are the same calipers as a full size chevy truck. They are not. I also say this because the rotor diameter isnt changing and the best way to upgrade braking is to put a larger rotor on, not clamp a small one harder (if the Colorado calipers even do). Its a great write up and most people I've seen have been happy with the swap. Since I have Colorado calipers as well, I also know the calipers are insanely close to the back of the rotors. Lastly, everyone who has done this swap seems to have high mileage rotors, worn stock pads, old brake fluid and squishy rubber lines. I would love to see a fair comparison between clean and well lubed calipers, new or resurfaced stock rotors bedded in with new stock ceramic pads, stainless lines and new fluid to the colorado calipers with stock ceramic pads before I reccomended it to anyone. I also know that even with a totally stock braking system, resurfaced rotors and EBC pads make a HUGE difference. Even the powerstop pads and rotors I had on my 94 trooper with 33x1250s stopped that thing pretty fast and held it well down hills where the back tires were lifting. Just my 2 cents. Take it or leave it, but dont take anything away from all the work he put into this write up because that is awesome.
 

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I've heard exactly the same thing, and generally agree. I have to wonder if even the more available parts would be worth it alone. Not that I've ever had a problem getting brake stuff before.
 

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Well, the isuzu calipers ARE pricey new. I think I just paid over $100 for a new rear one !
 

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superswire said:
the design for RODEOS went to dual pistons sometime in 2001.. I think it would help. I recently got new brakes incl ceramic pads & feels much smoother. ADVICS PADS improved quite a bit but since its so long since I've driven it new I no longer can recall. BUT feels like new.
 

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And the 02 and up dual piston rodeos/axioms have floating rotors and sealed bearings. Totally different setup.
 

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superswire said:
And the dual piston rodeos have larger rotors and unit bearings. Totally different setup.
Can you switch to those without losing the ability to use manual hubs?
 

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Interesting - looks like it might work on the 2nd gen 00RODEO - the part number for the front caliper is the same as 01Trooper..
Q: Is the pad actually larger ? (the 01+ RODEOS are completely different/2piston anyway)
 

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Enemigo said:
superswire said:
And the dual piston rodeos have larger rotors and unit bearings. Totally different setup.
Can you switch to those without losing the ability to use manual hubs?
No, the 02 and up dual piston setup has a sealed hub with a nut on the end of the axle much like every other typical modern car. Ive even seen folks building 02 and up rodeos swap back to the older style cvs and knuckles so they can have manual hubs.
 

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Sh_YVR said:
Interesting - looks like it might work on the 2nd gen 00RODEO - the part number for the front caliper is the same as 01Trooper..
Q: Is the pad actually larger ? (the 01+ RODEOS are completely different/2piston anyway)
i could be wrong, but im fairly sure the colorado calipers work on rodeos too if that is what you mean
 

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superswire said:
i could be wrong, but im fairly sure the colorado calipers work on rodeos too if that is what you mean
Yes. Looks like it - if anyone has done it weigh in. If I ever do my calipers again - will try it. No real complaints tho with the stock setup & brakes very smooth now
 

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my trooper with cross-drilled slotted rotors ,ceramic pads and reman oem calipers all around stops on a dime , even with oversized tires.
but a good write up, if calipers ever get hard to find...i have had 3 front calipers fail on me...but warranty covered those.
 
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Has anyone looked at a potential upgrade on the master cylinder to maximize the dual piston calipers?
 

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it should be ok, if you fill it above the line and watch the level - my concern (with doing more upgrading) is that it will change the ABS characteristics so you would have to test it extensively (if you use abs) - may lock up faster and not modulate enough..I wonder if one day someone will figure out how to flash the ABS module...I dont think it can be done with tech2 or am I wrong ?
 

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Regardless of what brakes you have, your abs uses a calculation between wheel speeds to simply pulse the solenoids. I don't see why you would need to reflash it.
 
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