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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
I bought an internet rebuilt transmission last night from a company in Florida. My truck has the 44RE in it and it has slipped in first and second from day 1. Hopefully it'll work out. I must admit, I'm not looking forward to the job.



I plan to replace the front exhaust pipe since I'll have it removed and mine has rusted pretty thin. I figure I'll want to do input and output seals in the transfer case, too. And probably the engine rear main seal. Maybe the transmission mount. The transmission comes with a new torque converter so I won't have to worry about that.

Is there anything else you guys can think of that I ought to replace while I have that behemoth of a transmission out from under the truck?
 

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Wow! Sorry to hear about the problems with tis build. I always enjoyed your progress on this. If you go from rivets to bolts, you might consider "close tolerance" bolts (they may be AN or aviation). Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
DSUZU said:
Wow! Sorry to hear about the problems with tis build. I always enjoyed your progress on this. If you go from rivets to bolts, you might consider "close tolerance" bolts (they may be AN or aviation). Dennis
Thanks Dennis. It's nota big deal. I knew I was going to have to do something with the rust and transmission sooner or later. It'll give me the opportunity to make things right.

I'm not familiar with close tolerance fasteners but they seem like a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
New intermediate shaft came in the mail so I installed it. I thought the old one might have some slop in it but when I got it out, no, no it didn't. The u-joints were pretty rusty, though, and didn't have much range of motion left..

The new shaft came unpainted. $300 for a part and they can't even paint the damned thing.



I wasn't feeling like painting today so I just coated the crap out of it with Cosmoline.



Installation took about 30 minutes but most of that was me walking back and forth to the shop to get tools.





The truck rides and steers pretty good now. I think the new box, pitman arm and intermediate shaft did some good. I need to get it back in for an alignment in the next few weeks.
 

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radare said:
Latest update on the Dodge, if anyone is still reading this.
FWIW, I read all your posts. I've learned a lot from them and have been emboldened to try some things I wouldn't have considered before. Also, things I would have tried have turned out better with your tips and advice that I wouldn't have thought of on my own!
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
txamigo said:
radare said:
Latest update on the Dodge, if anyone is still reading this.
FWIW, I read all your posts. I've learned a lot from them and have been emboldened to try some things I wouldn't have considered before. Also, things I would have tried have turned out better with your tips and advice that I wouldn't have thought of on my own!
That's awesome. Thank you!
 

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I dunno, it looks like your Dodge has been infected by the Isuzu :D. Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
The Dodge has been wearing out the road between my house and the local big-box hardware store. I decided last night, to give it some much needed attention. I spent a few hours cleaning up all the rust spots with phosphoric acid and coating them with touch-up paint. I have that paint in a spray can so I spray it into a baby food jar and then let it thicken up a bit and apply it using an artists brush. Works pretty well. For the larger area's, I brush on a layer of 5-min epoxy to offer some additional protection and help hide it. It's the closest to a 2k paint I have access to right now.



I have a real desire to tackle the driver-side rear cab corner in the next couple of weekends. It was torn clean through when i bought the truck and really rusty on the inside. I pushed out the dent using my Porta Power back when I did the other corner but I found that it was too rusty to properly repair. The metal was just too thin and backside access poor.





Its gotten worse over the last couple of years. More rusty. I have Gorilla tape over it right now to try and keep water out.





I have a pattern corner and a new Hobart I really want to try out. Problem is, I need to remove that box. By myself. Any suggestions on how to do that?
 

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I've seen guys build a 2x4 contraption on the top of the box that they strap it to and then use a cherry picker to lift. You could also build some tallish saw horses that span the width of the bed and use ratchet straps to lift enough to clear the wheel wells. There is a way!
 

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radare said:
I have a pattern corner and a new Hobart I really want to try out. Problem is, I need to remove that box. By myself. Any suggestions on how to do that?
Well, do you have a bunch of 2"x2" x.120 wall tube and about eight high lift jacks?

Haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
I finally got the bed off. I built a support cube out of 2x6's and 4x4's and used ratchet straps to lift the bed off of the truck. I then drove out from under it. Aside from the rusty cab corner and frame rust where the two halves are riveted together, it looks really good.







 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
I started rust repair on the driver side cab corner. Didn't look too bad from the outside but super rusty on the inside.



Chrysler used some expanding foam to seal the body plugs where the cab corner sits on the cab mount. This area was completely rusted away.

 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
I got the rear cab corner repaired and back together. I ended up needing to patch both the inner and outer rockers as well as the quarter panel.






I did have some issues with heat causing warpage. In the areas where the welds aren't fully ground, they've sunk inward about 1/16". I don't think it'll be a problem once filled and painted though.



 
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