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Looks good, dude! I need some 4lo therapy myself. I bet that was a good time.

I may take my trooper to your bud's shop eventually for some work. More than likely I'm moving out to the other side of Charlotte this year, and I'm not sure if I'll have my garage set up to do much of the serious work I want to do for a while.
 

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Yup, actually have it over at East Coast gear supply getting a few things done while I'm away for work. One is the front driveshaft is being replaced by an Oliver's unit, and from what they said the guy knows exactly what I need from doing another Isuzu recently, probably referring to yours.

edit - meant to ask: do you have a functioning ebrake? I have got to rig something up on mine. I have the cables coming off the brakes but they are just zip tied up out of the way, connected to nothing.
 

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Lots of hours of dirty work documented here. Hats off to ya!

I may try to get one more trip in before the baby comes mid Aug, but more than likely it'll be Fall before I can get back out there. Get her dialed in and let's plan for a SHOP/DPG trip at some point when the weather is cooler - I haven't been to either spot yet.
 

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Looks like a badass rig doing some sweet trails! I wanna go sometime.
 

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Maybe it's just my lack of power and low idle speed (600rpm), but I'd kill for a doubler. Another 2:1 or so crawl box would be sweet for true "no-footin'" it in dry/grippy stuff. I have to 3-foot everything like that now, or else as soon as I need to steer or I get slightly crossed up while climbing a rock, it's stall city. I need to finish my hand throttle to give me a little more rpm for steering while trying to crawl. That and the extra torque from the 3.4 ought to make things a little better, but either an auto and ~60:1 or a stick and a doubler would be a more ideal setup IMO.
 

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Jonesy said:
Thanks.

I'm hoping to see how close your trackba/drag link are to the frame when stuffed. As I said, my drag link hits the frame before I can engage my bumpstops....which I'm worried about a little bit. Add to it, I want to lower the ride height a little bit...and that will keep me from doing so. Maybe it's the steering box I have (front swing Ford box) that is making it high. Maybe I should just move the TRE to the bottom of the high steer arm. This is the stuff I can't figure out very easily.
Just remember that your draglink and panhard need to be at parallel angles or you will get bumpsteer. So if you move your dlink to under the steering arm (which I've also considered) you'll need to move a panhard mount too.

You definitely want your bumpstops to make contact before anything else.

I want to lower ride height and increase uptravel eventually, but it's going to require moving a lot of [email protected] and/or modifying my frame rails further. Mine are already notched.

Your best bet may be notching or heavily modifying your frame rails (cut out the section above your problem areas and slap some new 2x3 or whatever tubing in there to clear everything).
 

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With your ability to break **** I'd maybe shy away from the toyota doubler. You'd be springing for the blingest parts which would probably put you at a ~$2k setup and you'd still be walking the line on strength. It might work out fine, and there are dudes out there running that gear with no problems, but your rig is full bodied and not light, and although you don't have a ton of power, that weight plays a factor.

I shied away from toyota stuff because I didn't want my t-case to be the fuse. If it was an amigo or shorty 1st gen RS with toyota axles or a buggy or something, I wouldn't be that concerned.

What other drivetrain options were you considering? I'm gonna have a machinist buddy in my club help me with my adapter for the 700r4 to Zu case. I think the deep 3:06:1 1st gear in the auto, the torque converter multiplication factor, and the 3.07:1 in the case will be a good combo for the trails. Easier to control without the clutch to worry about. Plus it's not electronically controlled, so I don't have to worry about the changing the ECU or adding a trans control module, hell I can go full manual with it if I want.
 
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