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Like the plan...although I think the 4.56's/37" are going to make you feel WAY underpowered. I am currently running 5.13's with 35's and I don't feel I have a lot of power, and have to down shift quite a bit on any steady hills. I think with bigger tires and higher gearing you are going to be begging for power.

I will be curious to see how this goes though.
 

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Lorenzo,

Here are the pics you asked about. As you can see, in mine they rerouted the exhaust up front around the oilpan. I haven't really dug into it since I got this thing, but I do have a CEL light that codes to O2...maybe just be the O2 sensor is shot...but I've had no extra $$ to investigate. It seems to work ok, I just need to figure out the CEL to know for sure. One other thing, and I'm pretty sure this is related to the exhaust routing, the hump in the floor by the shifters gets pretty hot...it's annoying in the summer when it's already hot outside. I just need to get an extra few thousand $ to get this thing revamped.

Passenger side off manifold



front, around oil pan



along driver side rail to match up to Cat

 

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Sucks about the wheels, they look pretty good.

Why did you fully weld the link/track bar mount already? Have you been able to test fit it and make sure it's right? Seems tacking it first would be the way to go. I know from experience that fully welding before really checking can be a PIA :oops:
 

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It is true that it's not cheap to do this type of mod....and you probably can buy a built truck for cheaper, however as with everything there are trade-offs.

The main thing to realize is that Lorenzo went with the most expensive option for an SAS. Personally I think coils/coilovers are the way to go....however, I'm also starting to wonder if it's really worth it. The small "wear" components are quite expensive to say a pair of leaf spring bushings....plus they aren't things you can generally buy used since they are wear items (minus the coils or coilovers themselves) Also, many of the costs that Lorenzo listed are things that you need to buy regardless of building/buying. New tires are just needed....granted you may buy a truck with new tires, but a lot of the time they take off the good tires and sell used, worn down tires and sell the tires off separately since they are worth more that way.

Also, as everyone who does any sort of modifications to vehicles knows, you RARELY will ever get back close to what you put into a vehicle...and that's usually not a concern, because you like the vehicle you drive....and make it "yours"

So, while it's expensive, Lorenzo could've easily cut that budget in half by going with leafs instead of coilovers. Hell, the cost of coilovers alone would've EASILY covered leafs, bushings, and likely brackets. Then you'd still save on the joints, heims and DOM tubing. So it really boils down to what you want. I think his rig will ride better on the street and on the trail, and will be awesome...but all those things come at a price. Also, usually when you buy something, you have to settle for what was already done...and most of the time it's leafs anyway.

As for the few major points about buying another truck. It is nice buying a truck that has aftermarket support...however it's also nice and cool to wheel something different. I love the look people give me in my Rodeo on trails. It surprises them, plus it's not another Jeep. If I started over, I'd buy a Toyota however because it does have aftermarket support, yet it still isn't a Jeep...which are great trucks...I just prefer a little "uniqueness" with my stuff.

So just remember, there are compromises either way....and a lot of time just buying a built truck doesn't mean no work needs to be done most of the time. Heck, I bought my 96 already SAS'd and I am basically planning on redoing a good majority of it because it wasn't done how I would like it. Also, buying something prebuilt also means taking what someone else wanted.

Me personally, I love my truck (97 more then the 96 right now :lol: ) but hey, they are unique and cool....and like Lorenzo got on his OX, I got an AMAZING deal on my built truck, so even after building it how I want, it's still going to be cheaper then buying anything else built similarly. So, again, it's all in what you want and what you are willing to compromise on.

Sorry for the hijack :oops: Continue on.....I want to see this beast done.
 
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lorenzo816 said:
Now for a teaser pic. Here is the proposed ride-height:
Yes I plant to do something with that chewed up front bumper and valance. :drunken:
I do like that wheel/tire combo...it looks pretty cool. It seems a little high still. I know it's proposed and you don't have things dialed in yet...but I'd suggest getting it lower.

What length coilover did you go with again? I'm going to be swapping to 10" all around to keep it low.....Maybe long term I'll redesign the mounts and be able to get 12" in there while keeping the ride height...but for now, lower is more important to me.
 

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lorenzo816 said:
Got 12" based on realistic travel on the front end
Going any taller and you would probably end up having to punch holes in the fender and/or hood for shock mounts.

The shock mounts are not on yet as the rear is gonna get SOA and shorter shackle and a trackbar.
I totally agree, seems high but I really wanna see what the rear is gonna sit like.
Chris wants to keep it low but you're right, not 'dialed in' yet.
I'm looking for somewhere around 5"up and 7"down or 4"up and 8 down on the CO.... We'll see what that nets us.
I wrestled with this for a long time. Trying to keep it low while maximizing travel. I have a pair of new 10" co sitting at my feet for the rear(at least that is the plan) I also have a pair of 14" I am thinking of trying to stuff in the front...but that requires a lot more work moving the upper mount as close to the hood as possible. I already have a fair bit in the engine bay over the inner fender, so it would require moving a lot of that. I'm torn on if it's worth redoing my mounts (currently they sit below the shock hoop in the wheel well, and rotating them up and in...or just saying F' it and getting 10" CO for the front as well, and leaving everything how it is. If I went 10" I'd set them for ~ 3.5-4" down travel and 6.5-6" up travel...which basically means I'm sacrificing down travel. Still torn on it...so I'm curious how yours works out.

Looking forward to seeing it a little further along.
 

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Nice to see it "done"

What did your frame height end up at? It is a little tall, but not terrible.

What springs lengths/rates did you go with up front? Also, are the coil overs "stock" valving, or did you pick your own valving?
 

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Any further progress on this? How about some more pics.....flex pics, side shots, etc.
 

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Any further updates on this?
 

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anymore updates?

How are things working out for you? What is your frame height on this thing? Say, right below the B pillar? Just curious how tall it is compared to my truck.
 

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How did the trip to Kentucky go? Any updates?

How are things holding up? Were you ever able to figure out valving? It appears you have Fox shocks, which is what I have...and up front I seem to feel a harshness with my custom valving....when I hit a cut out in the road (manhole cover, small pothole, etc) where if feels like the shock is bottomed out even though there is 3" of shaft showing. I wonder if the compression valving is too much and it can't cycle well enough for onroad.

Also, still running 200/250 springs? How much preload do you have? How much shaft is showing (up travel)?

I'm still trying to dial mine in, and you are the only coil over Isuzu I know of to compare to
 

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lorenzo816 said:
Even when backing out of my driveway, the front feels harsh when it meets the pavement from the dip if I am moving even relatively fast, Not sure if its the valving or the spring rates.
Wheeling everything feels fine though. Big Chris told me how they measure spring rate and I forget now the specifics but I'll ask.
I'll drop by the shop one day and get the details. I forget now if I am stiff then soft or vice versa for the two springs.
Very interesting that you mention this....I had the EXACT same feeling with mine after changing to 225/225 springs (from 225/300) The front would be jarring when hitting potholes or manhole covers...or any "sudden" hole/bump. I pulled it into the shop this weekend thinking it was valving or too light a spring rate....but I found that my 2 front body mounts (under the corner lights) were gone...the passenger side rubber between the frame mount and body was completely gone, and the driver side was rotted away that it was just about detached from the sleeve. I found some stock bumpstop material that we had laying around form some truck that was close to the size...then cut it down to fit. Put new sleeves in the lower body mount and new hardware and the harshness is gone. You may want to check those. I think the rock crawling is slow enough that maybe the body isn't contacting the frame....but on the slightly faster hits it's smashing it pretty good.
 

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I'd check the body mounts.....I was surprised how harsh it made the ride feel with those gone...and how much better it is now that I have new ones in place.
 

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lorenzo816 said:
Hey Jonesy, I noticed the other day while under my fenders that the lb rate on the springs are printed on them. Stupid me!
I think it said 250 lower and 200 or 150 (ICR right now) on the upper.
BTW, I did tighten up all the BMs and the harshness has improved. You may have been right there.

Oh and one more super cool update.
I followed along with Paul's super awesome Blem deal on the interco birddogs.
Bad asss deal at a great cost. So I'm not worried about beadlocks no more!
Fixed my spacing issue now too. I'm only 2" wider now in the front than the rear. Almost perfect.

I was running 14 psi all weekend last time we went out and I'm thinking I could go lower and not care but don't want to lose the height.
Now, only to find someone to buy those nissan supercharged 17" rims. Any takers? I'll make a deal!


oh and trick or treat came early for me.
I picked this up earlier in October.
It will probably sit around until I have the time and money to swap but you damn right, its a full float FJ80 rear end with center drop out, disc brakes and perfect 63" wms to match with my front.
I'll be full float one day fo sho!

The plan is to cut all that mess off and get a 'real' CV shaft for the rear output of the driveline since its offset to the passenger side a little.
Or I could scrap the housing, keep the outer brackets, sell the shafts, triangulate the suspension and well I still have to regear the front and rear to match eventually. May go detroit at that point or just leave it open. Haven't decided yet.
Either way, we're talking thousands here... $$$
At least I got an axle for a good deal. They are hard to find around here.
Could just be a pipe dream and the truck takes a poop one day.
:wink: :bigsmurf:
Looks good with the wheels.

Those rates are similar to what I'm running...and I need to go stiffer on the lower...which means reducing the upper. Right now I'm running 225/225...while this puts my height where I want it...it's a little floppy on turns (of course, no front sway bar doesn't help) i'll likely end up at 175/300 or 175/275. I need a little more stiffness on the main spring.

On the axle, can you get gears to match your front? I believe the FJ80 axle has 5.29's available....so I assume just running 5.38's in the front? Nice find though....I actually thought about swapping in both front/rear axles out of an FZJ80 before I came across this truck.
 

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Lorenzo,

I'm curious if you can get some pics of your suspension up front on passenger side when it's stuffed into the fender. My drag link contacts the frame before my bumpstop hits. I have a tiny bit more I could go....but my real goal is to lower the truck about 1-2", and in doing so I will need to notch the frame more then it already is......Did they not need to notch your frame? Maybe even good suspension shots at ride height?

I also notice that it appears you don't have high steer? Are you still running the tie rod on the stock location of the knuckles? I'm wondering that if I lower it, I may have to move the TRE to the bottom of the high steer arm to keep it flat. So I'm just trying to get ideas on how others did theirs.
 

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Thanks.

I'm hoping to see how close your trackba/drag link are to the frame when stuffed. As I said, my drag link hits the frame before I can engage my bumpstops....which I'm worried about a little bit. Add to it, I want to lower the ride height a little bit...and that will keep me from doing so. Maybe it's the steering box I have (front swing Ford box) that is making it high. Maybe I should just move the TRE to the bottom of the high steer arm. This is the stuff I can't figure out very easily.
 

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Dam...thats a lot of breakage. I don't know if I just wheel way less or it's an wast coast thing but so far I've only broken 1 stub shaft and that was not even wheeling.

I always look forward to updates on your truck, since it's the closest thing to mine. :)

I hope you get stuff figured out. I have liked my high pinion, but i almost think with the breakage you've had it might be worth doing D60 stuff.
 

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Nice. What rear axle are you running again? Also do you have a sway bar on the front or rear? Can you take pics? Lastly, what springs are you running on your truck?

It seems mine is still taller then yours...it leans fairly heavily on turns but cant dee how I'd fit a front sway bar.

I also broke a shaft and ARB in the rear last year and barely got it fixed....and realizing I am looking at junkyard shafts, it's a little discouraging
 

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Rear axle shaft snapped taking out the ARB. I was able to just replace the case luckily...but the whole thing cost about $1100 to repair. If I wasn't linked in the rear I'd be more inclined to find a different axle solution...but it's already so customized it gets expensive to keep running when a problem comes up. Not to mention that I'm taller then preferred but with the customization being built around the 3" bl it's hard to do much with it.

I would like to figure out limiting straps and sway bat up front so I dont have so much body roll and I felt a little more comfortable about driving on the street.

I think having a shop you trust is great when you cant do the work yourself. I'm having a hard time finding that as well
 

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Dig your truck still Lorenzo.

I'm debating selling mine as I hardly use it anymore. The last breakage of the rear shaft hurt financially (took out the ARB as well) With all the customization I have a hard time finding a shop that knows enough (that I trust) Seeing yours makes me want to keep mine.
 
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