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Instead of going MOOG, can't you use the same P/N's from say... Quick Steer? See photo

I purchased the Indy4x tie rods about a year ago for the $200+ price tag and the 3 out of 4 of the boots ripped after my first off-road trip. I don't want to fork out the $55+shipping price tag for new ends SO this may seem like a viable way to throw my $200+ investment out the window.

 

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furiousbob said:
Instead of going MOOG, can't you use the same P/N's from say... Quick Steer? See photo

I purchased the Indy4x tie rods about a year ago for the $200+ price tag and the 3 out of 4 of the boots ripped after my first off-road trip. I don't want to fork out the $55+shipping price tag for new ends SO this may seem like a viable way to throw my $200+ investment out the window.

You can absolutely use a different & cheaper brand. I found some in a quality brand on a closeout sale that were extremely cheap, they're on the shelf until needed.
Or you can separate the ends where the boots are torn & replace the boots for just a few dollars each & some labor, Energy Suspensions sells poly boots. This is what I intend to do with the Moog lower ball joints that tore the boots after just a few thousand miles.
 

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Well I left em torn for about 6 months... I was so frustrated that they tore so early that I just rage quit on it and left it until a later date hah.

I've decided to try this DIY setup out. Thanks for all this info!!
 

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For a 1996 Rodeo, the F150 tie rods need to be shortened a tad. At the shop now, and it's 2" toed out with them bottomed out. This was with the QuickSteer parts from RockAuto, and a 1.5" T-bar lift.

Just leaving this as an FYI for future people that do this, replacing them is easy, but you've got to make sure you get them short enough.
 

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I'm going to have to cut mine down considerably. I'm glad the QuickSteer parts worked out for you though, as I hastily ordered them this morning.

For the 90 Trooper, it's supposed to be closer to 1" IIRC?

It just hit me, you need to cut the ends, not the collar. This entire time I was thinking you had to cut the center collar. I'll make quick work of this and report my findings... or reinforce your guys' findings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I've found that not every brand has the same length threads but the best way to get your cuts right is to just compare side by side with the stock setup on the rig. I used the cheapy ones on my Rodeo and they're still perfect. I think the Indy ones allow a steep angle that ends up tearing the boots easier. I believe they use Dodge parts
 

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So I picked up the center sleeves ( ES3201S ) for my 90 Trooper and I cut an inch off of each tie rod. I slapped em all together and wound the tie rods all the way down and they're about a half inch too long when compared to my Indy4x HD tie rods.

Has anybody had to cut the sleeve down?

EDIT** I'm an idiot. I had 2 nuts on each side of each tie rod. I hadn't had my beer yet. I wasn't thinking straight. I now have another half inch of adjustment past where my original tie rods were.

Thanks!
 

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Thank you geoff for taking the time to create the PDF. One question for you and the others who have done this upgrade; have you had any interference issues with the shocks? Geoff's photo of the '90 Trooper in his PDF has me wondering. The sleeve looks like it's almost touching the shock.

edit:

Just spent some time going through your web site. Wow. Impressive! In the Suspension/Steering section, the photos of the tie rod ends show a zerk fitting, but no threaded hole to install it. Did you drill and tap a hole for those zerk fittings?

geoffinbc said:
I am glad everyone is getting use out of the combo I found. I really like that the parts are available and affordable. The fact that you can do a huge strength upgrade for less than stock parts cost is obviously the best part.

I have said it before but I would like to say it again. What makes the hotrodding/4X4 community so great is the open source nature of the hobby. I could have kept all the part numbers a secret and turned around and sold them at a profit and it may have taken a few years for people figure it out. However, I have used countless ideas from other people over the years, the first one I used on my Troooer was the trans/transfer vent mod, so any idea I come up with I share for free as a way of giving back. Hell I even put up a couple hundred dollars a year to keep my website and domain hosted. If you have been to my site you will see I sell a couple products. Yes I do make money, but again there are no secrets. How to make my intake kit is in the how to section and the shackles could be copied by looking at the pictures or just making something up yourself. What you pay for is convenience and my time to make the stuff.

I really appriciate anyone who posts up any information for the benefit of community. When we make an effort to keep things free or very low cost our hobby will advance much faster than if everything was done for profit and kept secret. Just look at communities like Megasquirt EFI ,Linux OS and Arduino they have come so far so fast because ideas change hands millions of times a second. Hotrodding has benefited massively from community boards like this one and I just want it to stay alive for as long as possible.
 

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I used Moog parts and the grease fittings were in the box. I just had to screw them in. Not sure what you get with other brands.
 

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Bought the parts listed in the OP and they work great thanks for making this thread it saved me a bunch of cash.
They ended up costing about $150 I got the Moog parts from Amazon cheaper than I could get them on the Moog site, not sure why they would show a higher price than Amazon for the same parts.

2 of: Moog ES3370T Tie Rod End
Sold by: Amazon.com Services, Inc. Condition: New $28.07 each

2 of: Moog ES3369T Tie Rod End
Sold by: Amazon.com Services, Inc. Condition: New $31.25 each

2 of: Moog ES3368S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
Sold by: Amazon.com Services, Inc. Condition: New $11.88 each

Subtotal: $142.40
Sales Tax: $7.50
Total = $149.90
 

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Christine said:
Bought the parts listed in the OP and they work great thanks for making this thread it saved me a bunch of cash.
They ended up costing about $150 I got the Moog parts from Amazon cheaper than I could get them on the Moog site, not sure why they would show a higher price than Amazon for the same parts.

2 of: Moog ES3370T Tie Rod End
Sold by: Amazon.com Services, Inc. Condition: New $28.07 each

2 of: Moog ES3369T Tie Rod End
Sold by: Amazon.com Services, Inc. Condition: New $31.25 each

2 of: Moog ES3368S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
Sold by: Amazon.com Services, Inc. Condition: New $11.88 each

Subtotal: $142.40
Sales Tax: $7.50
Total = $149.90
Same parts are about $20 cheaper at rockauto.com, it seems that they are consistently cheapest on things like Moog suspension parts & Gates belts & hoses as long as everything ships from the same warehouse so that you don't get excessive shipping charges.
 

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So far the Moog stuff has held up OK but the Trooper is not my daily driver and we have not put many miles on it since putting the new tie rods on it. I will report back later if they fail or are still good after more miles and some trails.
 

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Jay said:
Good to know. Thanks for the follow up.

gimlithepirate said:
Update on the Quicksteer Tierods: The boots on them suck. Torn after 120 days. Going to replace with energy aftermarket dust boots, but still disappointing.
Are you sure you're talking about tie rods? Sounds like you might have them confused with CV axles. I've never seen a tie rod with "boots". Unless you're referring to the rubber reservoir that holds the grease in the joint? Hard to imagine those failing after 120 days. Suppose it's possible.
 

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catbrown357 said:
Jay said:
Good to know. Thanks for the follow up.

gimlithepirate said:
Update on the Quicksteer Tierods: The boots on them suck. Torn after 120 days. Going to replace with energy aftermarket dust boots, but still disappointing.
Are you sure you're talking about tie rods? Sounds like you might have them confused with CV axles. I've never seen a tie rod with "boots". Unless you're referring to the rubber reservoir that holds the grease in the joint? Hard to imagine those failing after 120 days. Suppose it's possible.
Yep that rubber reservoir is called a boot. I don't think I've ever seen a tie rod end without them...
 

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Thanks for posting this. I have a 94 Trooper and went with the recommended components. Drooped off the Trooper at the alignment shop , he says it's got one inch of toe out and I will need to cut the ends. Just a heads up
 
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