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Current pricing for http://www.rockauto.com for high quality MOOG parts. $128.38 and shipping was $7.99 more. Amazon totals similar with free prime shipping. Prime choice or similar import brands are still about a third of that.
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geoffinbc said:
But no one cought it for over a year. So your just as guilty lol.
"caught" &"you're"
Hahahaha!
 

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This upgrade is by far the best one to make to the front end. I just did my 2001 Trooper. The difference in diameters of the old vs. new is amazing. I even had one of the old ones that was bent. Thanks geoffinbc, your original thread is where I found out about this!

Aaron
 

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I am glad everyone is getting use out of the combo I found. I really like that the parts are available and affordable. The fact that you can do a huge strength upgrade for less than stock parts cost is obviously the best part.

I have said it before but I would like to say it again. What makes the hotrodding/4X4 community so great is the open source nature of the hobby. I could have kept all the part numbers a secret and turned around and sold them at a profit and it may have taken a few years for people figure it out. However, I have used countless ideas from other people over the years, the first one I used on my Troooer was the trans/transfer vent mod, so any idea I come up with I share for free as a way of giving back. Hell I even put up a couple hundred dollars a year to keep my website and domain hosted. If you have been to my site you will see I sell a couple products. Yes I do make money, but again there are no secrets. How to make my intake kit is in the how to section and the shackles could be copied by looking at the pictures or just making something up yourself. What you pay for is convenience and my time to make the stuff.

I really appriciate anyone who posts up any information for the benefit of community. When we make an effort to keep things free or very low cost our hobby will advance much faster than if everything was done for profit and kept secret. Just look at communities like Megasquirt EFI ,Linux OS and Arduino they have come so far so fast because ideas change hands millions of times a second. Hotrodding has benefited massively from community boards like this one and I just want it to stay alive for as long as possible.
 

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This thread was a huge help and I installed my F150 tie rods today! After the install and alignment, I noticed my steering is harder, not bad but definitely firmer, the wheel used to turn with almost no effort. Is this normal for the HD parts or should I be worried?? Thanks
 

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There should be no difference. Unless the old parts were really sloppy. Did the alignment shop give you a printout of the final numbers?
 

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The outer tie rod end on the passenger side was sloppy, but the others were good. When installing I'm pretty sure I did the 3369 on the inside and 3370 on the outside, is there a specific way they were supposed to be installed? They seem like the exact same part just one is reverse threaded. I do have a printout, camber is -0.3 both sides, toe -0.1, and caster +1.8 both sides
 

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No, I was actually planning on doing it myself since the steering was so easy before the HD rods, but never got around to it. The alignment shop only took about 15 minutes and it was the end of the day, so I'm thinking maybe the numbers are off and my toe or camber is off a little?
 

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Camber you wouldn't notice in the wheel. But caster and toe you would. It definatly takes more than 15 mins to do a proper alignment. I know they only had to set the toe but still thats pretty quick.
 

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To do a full alignment on a Trooper takes well over an hour depending on what needs to be adjusted. If it's really bad I wouldn't be surprised for it take over 2 hours. Even doing just a toe alignment takes around 30 minutes.

For caster to make steering stiffer you'd have to make a very large adjustment. I've moved caster more then 4 degrees on several models and never felt a difference in steering effort. I would guess your new steering links are just a lot tighter then your old ones.
 

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I'm wondering something, since I cranked the torsion bars up 1/2" and also the BJ flip which is about a 1/2" difference, could the combination "cancel each other out" in regards to camber? They said they didn't have to adjust the camber which I thought was needed after the lift, but maybe not? And I will be going back to the alignment shop since I'm pulled slightly to the left after the attempt at my alignment.
 

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nasty610 said:
To do a full alignment on a Trooper takes well over an hour depending on what needs to be adjusted. If it's really bad I wouldn't be surprised for it take over 2 hours. Even doing just a toe alignment takes around 30 minutes.

For caster to make steering stiffer you'd have to make a very large adjustment. I've moved caster more then 4 degrees on several models and never felt a difference in steering effort. I would guess your new steering links are just a lot tighter then your old ones.
So true. Most alignments done by oil change places are toe alignments only. I recently did the heavy duty tie rod ends along with upper and lower ball joints. I went to a frame and alignment shop that has an excellent reputation. Took them close to 2 hours and several road tests till they were satisfied with the job. What takes most of the time will be camber settings if there off. Charge was close to 100 dollars and they actually lost money doing mine because of the time frame. My opinion. if you want a true alignment, go to a place that ONLY does alignments, not somewhere where it's a secondary job.
 

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They were identical besides the threads, one being reverse threaded. I just threw them on with the 3369 as the inner but I doubt it matters.
 

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Read in the factory repair manual: "In either outer rod, the screw on the right side of the vehicle is threaded counterclockwise." es3370t is the one that is threaded counter, so it should be on the right hand side of the vehicle on both sides. Just FYI
 
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