[OrangeZ]

Finished Build:

A while ago I built a skid plate for my 1994 Rodeo and want to share how I built it.

Materials: (? = not exactly sure)
20" x 36" 1/8" diamond floor plate
2 - 1/2" x 6"(?) bolts with 4 washers and 2 ny-lock nuts
6 - 1/4"(?) x 1.25"(?) carriage bolts with 6 regular nuts, 6 ny-lock nuts, and 6 washers
6 - 3/8"(?) fender washers
2 - 6"(?) hose clamps
Few inches of tubing.

First, I stabilized the stock skid plate by inserting a piece a radiator hose between the frame and the plate. (see photo) I then secured the rear of the skid plate with a hose clamp. This was done for both sides. If this wasn't done, the stock skid plate would only be supported up front. Check it out for yourself.

I then took my metal and at roughly 6 inches, bent the metal at a 15-ish degree angle. 18 inches further from the first bend, I added another bend at a 10-ish degree angle. Hopefully the photo below helps explain this. I also held the piece up to mark and cut out material for the sway bar to clear.

Next, I marked 6 locations where the new skid plate overlapped the stock skid plate. This occurred in the first 6 inches of the metal i.e. the before the first bend. Using a 1/4" bit, drilled out these locations in both the metal and the stock skid plate. On the stock piece, I squared the hole in preparation for the carriage bolts. I then placed a fender washer over each carriage bolt, making sure the washers cleared the square of the bolt. This served to increase the surface area. With the washer/bolt combo, I reached behind and pushed the bolt through the square holes in the stock piece. (see photos to visualize) I secured the bolts with a nut. (see first photo below) This served to secure the carriage bolts and raise the new skid plate off the stock one. I then secured the new skid plate to these 6 bolts with a washer and ny-lock nut each. The 6 bolts were able to hold the entirety of piece for the time being.

Going under the car, you'll notice that the first cross member has two holes in it already. The holes I'm referring to are only on the top of the member. I pulled the member and cut/ drilled out the bottom of the member so that I could fit two bolts through the top holes and out. (photo below helps show this) I reinstalled the cross member and marked where the new skid plate intercepted the two holes. I then drilled two 1/2" holes at the marked points. I pushed two bolts and washers up through the plate and cross member. I secured those bolts with washers and ny-lock nuts on top. I tightened the nuts down just enough that the plate began to warp up.

I realize that the plate does block the oil filter and drain plug. You could make cutouts for both but honestly it's not that hard to just remove the plate altogether for this. To note, the plate does clear the diff., even with a 1.25" drop. It also clears the upgraded steering stabilizer that I also made a post about (Upgraded Isuzu Steering Stabilizer on a Budget) . Ignore the oil leak I'll fix it later.

This isn't a very professional post but I hope it gets the job done. Enjoy

 

[Enemigo]

Looks pretty great to me. How'd you do the bends?

 

[OrangeZ]

Looks pretty great to me. How'd you do the bends?

I bent the metal by first stacking a few lengths of 2x4 onto my garage floor. I then clamped a piece of angle iron to the edge of the top board. I laid the metal over the angle iron where I wanted the bend to be. I then bent it using a BFH. I'm sure there's a better way but I did what I had to.

 

[Enemigo]

Home made metal break, Nice.

 

[NCEvets]

Looks good!