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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, first post on this board. Just inherited a 1989 Isuzu Trooper LS from my grandpa this past weekend. I'm digging it. I'm excited to have found a dedicated forum!

The 4wd does not work. I swapped from automatic hubs to manual locking hubs today as I troubleshot the issue to be the driver's side hub not engaging. While digging into things I found the snap ring had popped of the end of the driver's side hub, i continued with the manual hubs and re-installed the snap-ring, (i will get a new one asap). However the cv shaft slacks out of the hub- far enough the splines do not engage. I can reach inside to the cv shaft and shove it out into the hub so the splines engage- but it just falls right back out. What does that snap ring even do?? I feel like I'm missing a washer or something also- then the snap ring would rest on a washer that prevents the cv shaft from falling slack out of the hub splines. I'm a newb to isuzu's and feel like I'm missing something obvious.

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks!
 

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Sounds like you using the old snap ring in the auto hub position? Not sure that's even possible, haven't messed with my hubs in a while. When running manual hubs it's a different diameter snap ring and it locates further on to the cv axle. A lot of people have had trouble getting the axle out far enough to add the snap ring, not the situation you are having.
Reading your post over, can't determine if you switched to manual hubs today, or if you switched to manual hubs prior, then today had the problem.
 

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If you put the auto hub back together & have slack on the CV (can still slide it in/out of the hub) then the clip failed as you put it back together (happened to me). Once they are warn to the point of popping off you can't put them back on, not even if you bend it back into shape. Don't use 4x4 until you get TWO NEW snap rings. If the drivers side is worn out so is the passenger.

If you used the same snap ring with manual hubs, you need larger snap rings, they go into a slot just back from the end of the splines (will have splines on both sides of the slot).

~psguardian
 

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Like to take credit for it but nope...not mine! Great picture though when discussing manual hubs and the threaded hole in the end of the CV that so many have to use to draw the axle far enough in to place the snap ring. Glad you were able to post it for Burnside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you all so much for the replies! Yes I am not using the proper c-clips.

I found this post last night:

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=50533

That is my exact scenario. And when this happened it caused the shaft to droop and the boot snagged the top of the lower ball joint ripping it. I went ahead and ordered a new empi cv shaft. I'm not going to bother trying to cut a groove in it or bother rigging it up with a spacer/washers- the boot needs fixed anyways.

So I guess I have dropping the whole axle assembly to look forward to :roll:

I'm digging this little rig though! I like how its all expedition-y.
 

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When you say dropping the whole axle assembly, not so. Order the cv shaft that does not include the inner cup as it's seldom a problem or worn. You then just split the lower ball joint, release the inner boot, remove the retaining ring and replace the half shaft. This post will show the retaining ring in the inner cup I'm referring to but certainly no need to drop the entire front axle assembly. viewtopic.php?f=4&t=56991
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm not a big fan of "short cuts" while wrenching. And from the research I've done I do not like the idea of buying a replacement shaft- cutting the band on a perfect factory installed cv boot to access the circlip, then butchering a metal cv band install myself. I'd almost rather pull the differential. Is the reason people don't want to pull the differential is to avoid touching the other side of the truck- then cutting it down to half the work? Or is there something particularly difficult with the lowering/re-installation of the differential itself? How does the CV shaft pull out of the differential if you pull the whole assembly; will you still need to remove the boot to access the circlip to release the axle shaft?

Sorry for the questions- I'm a newb diving in head first!
 

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Naaah, it's not a short cut. You buy the half shaft that does not include the inner coffee can looking part that stabs in to the diff. There is no butchering of a clamp. This shaft comes with a new inner boot and new unused clamp. You simply pop off the old inner boot, remove the circlip and pull the shaft. Pack it with the grease supplied, plug it all back together and then add the new clamp. I think people avoid pulling the entire diff is simply because it isn't necessary and it turns a relative fast and easy job in to something much more time consuming with no advantage over just replacing the bad shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was reviewing the part i ordered.

EMPI Part # 803211
Japan Built Axle w/o I.B. Joint; Front Left
Japan Built Axle w/o I.B. Joint; Front Right

Is this what I wanted? I also ordered a pair of monroe sensatec front shocks- on sale for 15$ a piece right now! (this has to be close to the world's worst handling vehicle!)
 

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Burnside said:
I'm not a big fan of "short cuts" while wrenching. And from the research I've done I do not like the idea of buying a replacement shaft- cutting the band on a perfect factory installed cv boot to access the circlip, then butchering a metal cv band install myself. I'd almost rather pull the differential. Is the reason people don't want to pull the differential is to avoid touching the other side of the truck- then cutting it down to half the work? Or is there something particularly difficult with the lowering/re-installation of the differential itself? How does the CV shaft pull out of the differential if you pull the whole assembly; will you still need to remove the boot to access the circlip to release the axle shaft?

Sorry for the questions- I'm a newb diving in head first!
I just swapped front axles on my Trooper over the weekend. It was not the first time, but I was freshly reminded what a PITA it is. My buddy who helped me was regretting it too. We both worked on it for 6 or 7 hours total (nothing seemed to go smoothly), and it isn't finished yet. Whereas swapping a half shaft is an hour or two work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Burnside said:
I was reviewing the part i ordered.

EMPI Part # 803211
Japan Built Axle w/o I.B. Joint; Front Left
Japan Built Axle w/o I.B. Joint; Front Right

Is this what I wanted? I also ordered a pair of monroe sensatec front shocks- on sale for 15$ a piece right now! (this has to be close to the world's worst handling vehicle!)
I have not installed the part yet but EMPI Part # 803211 was delivered this morning, and to answer my own question; YES this is the part number I want for this job- its a new shaft with the inboard boot free, a fresh metal band clamp, and a packet of grease.

I plan on tackling this job tomorrow morning. Any additional tips?

Is there a good method for packing the inboard joint with grease before install the shaft? -does it need packed? spread? just dump it in there?

Do you wheel bearings needs messed with during this procedure?
 

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I removed the old grease then smeared as much as I could in to / on to the new joint and put additional in the cup.
As for messing with the wheel bearings, no it's not necessary but if you don't know when they were last repacked it would sure be a good time to do it! When you reassemble, don't be surprised if it's difficult to get the shaft through enough to put the snap ring on. One tip is to raise the lower control arm to level the cv shaft. Also notice the shaft has a tapped hole in the end, it can be used too to pull the shaft outward to get the snap ring on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Glad to report that all went very well with the CV axle swap. All the write ups and forum research help immensley.

Trooper is back on the road, 4wd works good.

Thank you all very much for sharing your knowledge and advice.
 
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