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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hoping someone can help explain how this axle assembly works before I yank the old one out and cause more work for myself.

I bought a reman CV axle because I can't get my OEM one by mail quick enough for uwharrie. It was also only $31 on sale for the entire axle so I just went with it..



Now, what I'm used to is this end of the shaft having a clip on it to hold it into the differential's spider gears. I do not understand how it is held into the axle unless it is just by force of the outer hub..



Can someone tell me it's safe to pull the whole axle CV assembly from the front carrier and it's as easy as sliding this one back in?

Thanks in advance!
 

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can you get a pic of the inboard side of the inner joint?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not till after 5 today.. its got what appears to be a nice machined spot for a bearing to ride on.. didn't seem like anything "clips" to it or anything, so it doesn't seem like there should be one pressed.

I've looked at the myisuzuparts diagrams, as well as my factory service manual for the truck... they both seem to only want to show you the passenger's side.. the boook doesn't even give you any info on the driver's side CV like it goes in and out like the passenger. :?:
 

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Bruh you bought the whole damn cv axle....all you need is the half shaft.

you have to drop the axle to install what you bought which you don't need to do.
I'm prettys sure you need something like this. At least this is how I do it.

 

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to replace the entire shaft, you have to remove the housing. The shaft is held in by the pressed on bearing.

i have never taken the entire shaft out of my truck. Just left the inner shaft and cup and removed the rest of the shaft. So the above statement is my understanding of the assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It was cheaper to buy the whole axle than it was to get the outer axle assembly.

Good to know.. I'll just break the band clamp on the new axle and get some practice removing it. I have some extra boot clamps so I'll just go that route.

John, that sucker just slides right into the cup then?

Thanks for the confirmation guys. Driver's side should be done this evening and most of the passenger if all goes well. Might wait till tomorrow for reassembly due to paint drying. :wink: Got to make it all look pretty after seeing that beautifully done 1st gen.

Edit... here's a picture to show my progress. :?

 

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Unless you totally trashed the inside of the soup can you DO NOT NEED TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE AXLE. that is a BIG job. To do so you have to drop the entire diff out of the truck. Then the axle ends and bearings have to be pressed off the old axle and pressed back on the new.



Just peel back the inner boot large end after removing the metal tie.

Use a small screwdriver to slip under the wire ring inside the edge of the soup can and pop it out.

Now just slide out the inner CV as a unit. reinstall in reverse order.

Add a little grease. Slide the CV in and replace the wire snap ring inside the loop of the soup can.

Then push it all the way in and replace the metal tie on the inner boot.





I just did this job Saturday and have pics but i couldn't get them loaded to photobucket last time I tried.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Excellent. Makes perfect sense.. thank you for all the pictures Squatch

I'm used to working on mitsubishi.. what they do is have a seperate axle with a pressed on bearing.. that slides in and has it's own clip inside the diff that holds it all together. Then the whole CV actually bolts to the end of that axle shaft, so it all gets replaced as a whole assembly.

The part that's trashed on mine is the outer CV, so I'll just swap the outer and not have to worry about the cup.

I'll be buying an OEM replacement first chance I get just in case; but this one I got doesn't appear to be any different from the one that's on there now.. No complaints for only $31 at advance auto.
 

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Technically the Isuzu design is much stronger on the solid axle part than a C clip style axle.
Think of the Mitsu as a GM 10 bolt C lip and the Isuzu as a Ford 9inch.

The reality is the front axle in any 4x gets very little wear or use even if you wheel alot. For most even on a truck with 200k the front axle might have seen 2k actually locked in.

There is a snap ring on the shaft behind the inner CV. Same size as the one on manual locking hubs. This holds the ball part of the inner CV on the shaft. Remove the snap ring and the whole inner CV slides off. I'd use the new axle intact except the cup. Quicker that way.
 

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There is no guarantee the aftermarket CV shaft inner joint design will match the factory joint, they often use different designs for the internals...if it doesn't you will have to replace the entire thing anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
BigSwede said:
There is no guarantee the aftermarket CV shaft inner joint design will match the factory joint, they often use different designs for the internals...if it doesn't you will have to replace the entire thing anyway.
I'm optimistic only because I noticed the cup/shaft were isuzu original but just repainted. (you can see the green peaking through where it's scratched)

Guess there's only one way to find out. Otherwise I'll be regreasing the factory one to hell and installing a new boot on it, hoping that a spare comes before uwharrie.
 

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I'll probably be bringing a spare trooper set to URE just in case.
 

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Ruination said:
BigSwede said:
There is no guarantee the aftermarket CV shaft inner joint design will match the factory joint, they often use different designs for the internals...if it doesn't you will have to replace the entire thing anyway.
I'm optimistic only because I noticed the cup/shaft were isuzu original but just repainted. (you can see the green peaking through where it's scratched)

Guess there's only one way to find out. Otherwise I'll be regreasing the factory one to hell and installing a new boot on it, hoping that a spare comes before uwharrie.
Just curious why you bought new ones? Did you have some clicking coming off the joints or just old and wanted to replace. Im curious because I need to do this job on my Trooper and I was originally going the route youre taking but the more I think about it I think Im going to replace ripped boots. I have no clicking coming from my front end, but my boots have been torn forever and a day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ericchico said:
Ruination said:
BigSwede said:
There is no guarantee the aftermarket CV shaft inner joint design will match the factory joint, they often use different designs for the internals...if it doesn't you will have to replace the entire thing anyway.
I'm optimistic only because I noticed the cup/shaft were isuzu original but just repainted. (you can see the green peaking through where it's scratched)

Guess there's only one way to find out. Otherwise I'll be regreasing the factory one to hell and installing a new boot on it, hoping that a spare comes before uwharrie.
Just curious why you bought new ones? Did you have some clicking coming off the joints or just old and wanted to replace. Im curious because I need to do this job on my Trooper and I was originally going the route youre taking but the more I think about it I think Im going to replace ripped boots. I have no clicking coming from my front end, but my boots have been torn forever and a day.
If you see my picture up top, you'll see the boot is gone. It's been gone for some time, and the previous owner had taken the truck mudding a good bit.. although I cleaned the axle out and regreased it was still clicking badly and it has some serious play in it back and forth.

If you were at beasley knob this year you'd know how bad it was clicking.. :? At first it was only when turned, then as the day went on it was when the truck was flexed, and then it was doing it anytime I had it under load (grease probably came out)

In your case... your best off cleaning all the grease out of them. Repack them with grease and put new boots on. (Don't over grease them if you want your boots to last)

You just can't beat OEM.. mine was abused though.
 

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Ruination said:
ericchico said:
Ruination said:
BigSwede said:
There is no guarantee the aftermarket CV shaft inner joint design will match the factory joint, they often use different designs for the internals...if it doesn't you will have to replace the entire thing anyway.
I'm optimistic only because I noticed the cup/shaft were isuzu original but just repainted. (you can see the green peaking through where it's scratched)

Guess there's only one way to find out. Otherwise I'll be regreasing the factory one to hell and installing a new boot on it, hoping that a spare comes before uwharrie.
Just curious why you bought new ones? Did you have some clicking coming off the joints or just old and wanted to replace. Im curious because I need to do this job on my Trooper and I was originally going the route youre taking but the more I think about it I think Im going to replace ripped boots. I have no clicking coming from my front end, but my boots have been torn forever and a day.
If you see my picture up top, you'll see the boot is gone. It's been gone for some time, and the previous owner had taken the truck mudding a good bit.. although I cleaned the axle out and regreased it was still clicking badly and it has some serious play in it back and forth.

If you were at beasley knob this year you'd know how bad it was clicking.. :?
Got it. Yeah Im not getting any clicks so I am going to try my luck and do the boots for now and go from there. Thanks
 

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The maetech boots from Indy4x are the stuff! Super flexy and seem to last well. The complete kit comes with the grease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
BigSwede said:
There is no guarantee the aftermarket CV shaft inner joint design will match the factory joint, they often use different designs for the internals...if it doesn't you will have to replace the entire thing anyway.
I swear you Jinxed me!!



The new CV internals are too large for the cup. Strange because the new Cup is an isuzu original too.. I remember Jwood saying somewhere that different year trucks have different sizes? :?

Looking at the shop manual.. it appears that I can swap over the internals to the smaller one so it fits my truck? this seems easier than dropping the whole kit n kaboodle, no?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just got done dissassembing and reassembling both CVs.. I'll be the first to confirm that the larger CV cup/bearings does not swap with the smaller ones. For whatever reason.. they decided to make the shaft shorter on the one that uses the larger ball bearings/cup, so the other one does not have enough room to get a C-clip on.

Guess this one's going back to the Parts store.. and I hit the junkyard in the morning trying to find the 'correct' one. :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Success!! I lucked out and found a 1987 Trooper at the junkyard that had the axle I needed. There is a little play in the CV but not enough to worry about. I cleaned the grease out and regreased it with a NAPA boot kit that had the clamps, boot and grease. Feels good; and so does my truck..


Glad that's done with..
 
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