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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '92 rodeo V6 224,000 mi leaking coolant. Last week i had a serious pool of oil which i traced to the oil pressure switch...replaced that and drove for a couple days no problems. Then i noticed coolant running out in a stream. The lower radiator hose seemed to be the problem, at the water pump end. I replaced that and it actually seemed to get worse. most of the time when the engine is running it doesnt leak, or a few drips here and there. When i shut the engine off, it pours out. Some times after engine is shut off its ok, but as soon as i take off the radiator cap, it pours out. i cant see where its coming from (my glasses are broken). I'm afraid to ask if i need to replace the water pump??
Being unemployed for 3 yrs and extremely broke, would a stop leak product buy me some time. Any suggestions are appreciated, Thanks
 

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Stop leaks not a good idea it can plug up the water passages and cause more problems. It does sound like it might be the waterpump. It's not a terrible job to do if your capable and have some tools. Your in a good area for several zoo members if you need a hand...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i was afraid of that but thats what i needed to know. I'm sure i can manage it but its nice to know help is close. I'm mechanically minded, have enough tools to muddle through and have gotten to know more about automotive repair since i've been unemployed than i figured i'd ever know. Since i found this site i feel alot more confidant in diving in to the job at hand....somebody's always got an answer and quickly. Thanks for the info...money wise, i'll have to wait to get the part next week, then you may be hearing a request for more info after i get started, lol thanks again!
 

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Cool !! Its good to hear your looking forward to this job !!! Lol... You'll want a kit if at all possible. Atleast a belt, water pump and antifreeze. The tensioner assembly has a tendency to go bad after replacing the timing belt so keep that in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well, here i am again, lol I was able to get the pump (traded some chores with a neighbor) got everthing apart up to the power steering pump bracket and i'll be buggered if the bolts wont come off. Got the first 2 without any trouble but the other 3 will not budge...sprayed some WD40 on and stiil wont budge, tried some liquid wrench, still wont budge....any suggestions??? i know there always seems to be at least one that just wont give and there's got to be some solution...would i be better of removing the power steering pully for better leverage? that requires special tools i imagine? Or do i need a bodybuilder who can muscle it off (tried a neighbor guy but he's no stronger than i am so...)
 

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Put some heat on it..be patient. and get yourself some PB Blaster..WD40 is no good for eating rust..spray a ton on there and let it sit for a few hours then hit it again...a good propane or map gas torch is essential when working on old vehicles like this.....you don't want to be breaking bolts down there. Honestly..having a good fire extinguisher within reach is a good safeguard too...DAMHIK...could be the difference between having a few fried hairs on your hand and calling your home insurance company and living in a hotel for a month! Harbor freight has an awesom 1/2 breaker bar for like 20 bucks that is also a "must have" when working on old isuzus..just be very..very kind in application of torque..especially on small bolts that may be rusted...I'm not sure if the 92 rode has a similiar engine to the 3.2 v6 but if it has the same type of engine cooling..you may wanna pull the intake and replace o rings and hoses in the Valley of the motor..while your rippin and tearing..good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Awesome! Thanks for the info! And yes i believe a fire extinguisher is an excellent precaution!! There just happens to be a Harbor Freight nearby so i'll def check into adding a few items to the tool box as i seem to be doing all my own automotive repairs these days...never thought i'd enjoy it but i have a tendancy to tearing stuff appart and tinkering so why not the Rodeo. Actually , although everything says my Rodeo is a 3.1 v6 the VIN code shows it to be a 3.2L...which has made ordering parts in the past a bit challenging. Again, i thank you for all the info and suggestions....it helps a novice like myself to learn the lil tricks and knacks you all know! Alright i'm off for the PB Blaster and torch and back to the carport. THANKS!
 

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Let us know how things are progressing..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
hey guys....finally got it all apart and i came down with the flu...so finally got bacl to it today. Got the new pump installed and everthing back together and what do ya know it started, lol, and no leaks..yee haw!
However...i drove it about a mile and the water temp guage on the dash went from bottom to top...so obviously i didn't do so good :oops: And yes i did remember to fill the radiator, lol, per the manual instructions, with the cap off to let the air bleed out....put a bit over 2 gal in (manual says 9.7 qts, so that should be good.) when i shut the key off the needle dropped to the bottom...sounds stupid, i know, but for the life of me i cant remember if thats normal or if its stays in place until it cools off?? Apparently my brain hasn't recovered from the fever yet. you all must think i'm completely incompetent! Sooooo, what the heck did i do/not do???? Here i was feeling all proud of my self that it actually started and didnt leak, <sigh>
 

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It's all good man !! With the key off the Gage's just go where ever. It may have still had air in the system ... Now that it's cooled off how are the fluid levels ??? Hopefully it didn't get to hot on ya...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well the guage indicated it was real hot, but the engine didn't appear to be that hot....wasn't a bunch of metal pinging and crackling when i parked it. So should i run the engine with the cap off the radiator again or just add coolant if its needed??
 

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How's the level in the rad and over flow ?? Top it off and let it warm up and see what it does ... Might have had an air pocket up by the temp sender (steam) making it spike up. Did the heater put out good hot air ??
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
just checked the levels...both are good. i didn't check the heater last night...only drove it the mile to home. I'll head out and fire her up and see what happens and let ya know.
Thanks agasin...it's really nice having this resource...somebody ALWAYS has an answer and its always spot on! Back in a bit!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok heated up to about a third up the temp guage, no heat out of the heater at all...COLD. I assume i still got air in the system??
 

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bjgrandy said:
ok heated up to about a third up the temp guage, no heat out of the heater at all...COLD. I assume i still got air in the system??
How long did you run it ?

Take it for a drive.

If it does the same, (1/3 needle, no heat), then you either have a clogged heater core, or an air bubble.

My guess is an air bubble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i only ran it for about 10 min. I'll go run her around the block awhile and see what happens...i'm paranoid about getting stuck somewhere...or seizing the engine...this baby is all i got and it may have to serve as home in about a week, lol.
 

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You need to warm it up enough to get the therm to open then carefully pop the cap or keep it off during warm up. I had to rev mine up to say 1500 to circulate the water through the Heater core. Once I did that it burped and was all better. Keep the heater on high so you can reach in the cab and feel it start to get warm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ok got ya....just drove a half mile and the guage was almost maxed again...and still cold air from heater...sorry i'm such pain....i love my truck and without the knowledge and experience you guys have...i stress over the lil things, i've learned enough about the systems i've had to repair to do the job, and since i'm very mechanical, i can get it done. but i think it's just enough knowledge to make me paranoid and still basically clueless about how things really work. Thanks for your patience. I'll go burp my baby and try not to be sooooo female, LOL
 

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Your not a pain lol... But if it's getting that hot you need to get the air out before it messes something up. Put a big rag over the rad cap to protect yourself from spray and carefully loosen it. You can do this running or parked. Better to have it running and circulating. You can overfill the overflow a bit to give the system more water to pull in once you think it's good and go for a test drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
<sigh> baby has successfully been burped! Nice hot air coming from the heater, temp gauge is where is always is, coolant levels are both at the right place. Thanks again for all your help, again i learned a number of things i'll never forget...while switching out the water pump was really an easy process, the stuck bolt, the stripped bolt, the broken off bolt (oh yeah, forgot to mention that one....) made the easy job a major pain...but now i know how to deal with those problems and wont likely forget any time soon! Couldnt have...or i should say i WOULDN"T have even tried if there wasn't the support from planetisuzoo....now, i'm going to take my baby out for a nice drive and a tank of gas. Maybe i'll tackle the leaking rear brakes next week....i promise i'll try not to encounter anything difficult, LOL
MANY THANKS BRADZUZU, BONEBAG AND SELADOR!
 
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