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Discussion Starter · #761 ·
Haha, yeah, well I have a talent for making easy jobs 5 times harder, more expensive, and more time consuming.

I did manage to get my sliders cut off, rockers cut out, and bolts and stuff measured for dropping the tank down to match the BL reduction. This weekend I'll grab the hardware and material for that and also look at my steering shaft, as it will likely need to be shortened. I've got a stock one I can try or I can shorten the lengthened one that's currently in there. Might even actually get the body mounts and sleeves cut and get the sumb!tch lowered!

After being so 'intimate' with the rig as of late, the thought of making it more creature comforty appears more daunting than I suspected. So many body gaskets and seals and stuff would need refreshing, I just don't think I'm up to it right now. So I'm thinking maybe just keep it a full bodied, moderate trail wheeler, with somewhat improved street manners so that I can drive it whenever and wherever I'd like, but stay grounded in reality about what I can really make happen with it.

I still want a little zuk badly, and I'm dying because every few weeks to a month I see one in really good shape for like 2k, knowing I have to get this damn driveway extension done before I can grab one or else I won't have anywhere to put it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #762 ·
edit: double post
 

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IMG_20200404_144950.jpg


Here's a shot from last week. Got a lot more done today but my pics were all over 4mb and I'm to lazy at the moment to resize them in my phone.

Today I pulled the rear bumper, cut the lower part of the rear quarters, sized all the mounts for the E-fan and radiator, as well as the gas tank drop spacers, and grabbed materials from Lowe's.

If it wasn't going to freaking rain tomorrow, I'd be able to pull the steering shaft and install the tank spacers, and maybe even go ahead and do the body mounts. But I think I'll weld the sliders back on before I do the body mounts since there will be more room as it is now.

I was also checking out how the stock springs would hold up my front axle and where the mounts would fall:

IMG_20200403_201751~2.jpg


In that shot, the spring center pin hole is centered under the axle and the spring is actually touching the axle. After mounts n stuff, I'm estimating it might sit 2-3" lower than where it is now with the OME springs. Wouldn't lose too much approach angle. Looking at linking the rear end if I leaf the front. Still mulling it all over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #764 ·
Man welding the sliders back on is a pain! I'm an ok amateur metal gluer when I've got the piece on the table, but underneath at odd angles, reaching, yeesh. I got them good and boogered in and I'll hit what I can with the flap disc to smooth it out a little.

Also got the steering column undone, that was also more than a fair amount of pain in the butt. There's a splined extension that fit over the spline steering box input that had to be loosened, but in order to get the OEM ujoint connection thingy off of it, I had to sacrifice a 12mm. The OEM bolt was only showing like an 1/8 of an inch of head to get a socket onto, so I had to grind the 'lip' off the socket so it would engaged. Also my steering wheel wouldn't lock in any position except with that bolt pointing at the ground. Suffice it to say, words were said that I hope my kids or the neighbors didn't hear :blackeye: but we got it did.

Back out today to finish welding the sliders (had to replenish the feed wire) and unfortunately that's probably it for today. we'll see though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #765 ·
So, all I got done was boogering my sliders back on. But that's ok because I was able to cross it off the list! 1 step at a time! I jacked the trooper off the ground from each end of each slider to make sure things stayed in place, and all seems good.

Next up will be making the tank drop mounts and then I can start cutting down the body pucks and get this POS 1.5" lower.

Also picked up some 1" (1.3" OD, .133" wall) and 1.25" (1.66" OD, .14" wall) sch 40 black iron pipe (aka poop pipe) to make a new, very simple, very tight to the body rear bumper. In my parts cache I have an overbuilt D ring shackle mount that mounts to the factory hitch mount holes in the frame, or I might try to find a little receiver hitch that will mount there. So the tube bumper will be protection for the body only, and the hitch option I go with can take recovery duties without worry. The swing out is cool and all, but when I had it off, I estimated it weighs in the 135-145lb range, and that plus 100lb of spare tire is a lot of weight hanging off the back. If I use all 10' of each stick plus angle iron and welding wire, I might get the one I make to weigh 50lb. I'll throw the spare in the cargo area, and maybe build a folding sleeping platform over it that I've been thinking about for a long time.

If anyone is interested in the swing out tire carrier, I'll be happy to make you a deal on it.
 

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Making progress! Good to hear! Maybe about the time you are all done the trails will open up again!

I maybe interested in the bumper depending on what you want to get out of it. I have this indy rear bumper just sitting here that I never mounted because it has a hitch insert on it and it won't fit my truck with the hitch I have on the truck now (which is a part of the rear frame how I designed it).
 

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Discussion Starter · #767 ·
The only "major" catch is that as it sits, you'd probably need about 1.5" of body lift to clear the latch. You could probably move the latch to a different position or use a different one. Let me find a pic and point out what I'm talking about....
 

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Screenshot_20200420-145942.png

That little bracket that the swing arm latches on to. I'll have to measure when I am done with work, but you can see if I didn't have any body lift, the back door wouldn't be able to open (at least not all the way)
 

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Ah, I only have a 1inch body lift on mine, but it might work still.
 

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Discussion Starter · #770 ·
If it didn't clear, you could flip the latch 90* counter clockwise and put the latch catch thingy on the lower bumper. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you want to chat about it more or work out a deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #771 ·
Made some spacers to drop the gas tank lower, that kinda took a while longer than expected, mainly because I had to wrestle the tank for a while getting the mounts in. First I had to set up my portaband and the portaband table I got from swag off-road. It's pretty rad though, foot pedal and all. Made cutting the spacers an easy deal. After wrestling with the tank and mounts for a few hours, I finally went to work on the body mounts, and of course, most of the rearward mounts with the captured nuts broke free and are just spinning, so it looks like I'll get to cut some access holes to deal with those. Argh. Almost got to cross 2 things off the list.
 

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Having fun with the captured nuts on the rear body mounts - now cutting holes in the floor, fun times! A few are spinning free, a few are just straight up seized. I'm going to cut into all of them today or tomorrow and hit the seized ones with the propane torch and see if that does anything.

In other news, I'm going to attempt to reconfigure my front suspension a bit instead of going to leaves.

Screenshot_20200429-121732.png

Screenshot_20200429-121749.png

Screenshot_20200429-121813.png

Screenshot_20200429-121823.png

Screenshot_20200429-121832.png


After some pondering and discussions, my best bet is likely to run normal crossover steering. So run the drag link to the high steer arm but run the tie rod on the stock knuckle location, Which will allow me additional room to move the axle side panhard mount to sort of below the coil on the axle tube. That will take care of the panhard mount being the main uptravel inhibitor. It will also keep the panhard and drag link parallel (may need to adjust frame side panhard mount as well).

Next I'll have to see if I need to clearance the existing or completely fabricate new motor mounts, as it looks like the upper links may contact them once I create some new uptravel room. We'll see. I think I'll pull the coils and bumps and see what hits and where once the axle side panhard mount is moved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #773 ·
Good lord what a process :blackeye:

I just about got the drivers side mounts done, I have the body sitting on the new mounts on that side (which looks sooo much better) but I have a few bolts and sleeves corroded in the bushings. Had to get creative with the bench vise, heat, some bolts and sockets to press the old cruddy stuff through. This job is probably more work than the 2.8 - 3.4 saga. If I didn't have a welder I'd be screwed. I probably have another 2 weekends left.

I'll post some photos when there's something to show.
 

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I just did a shackle lift on my Trooper, figured about 4 hours max, passenger side not to difficult. Drivers side took the rest of the flippin day and it was corroded sleeves and bushings. Not the easiest place to work either. Finally got the shackles out and thought, man the bushing didn't come out. This could be bad. Reached up and they fell right out. Boy did I hurt the next day.
Got worried about the new T bars, read a bunch of information and the proper "clocking" had me worried, I have had these for at least 4 years now. I had been soaking the bolts and such. 3 hours and I was out testing. Some things go great and other stuff not so great.
Can't wait to see how the finished product come out.
 

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Got all of the body mounts cut and re-installed for fit up, but waiting on a box of body mount bushings from Jerry to see if there's something I can use to replace the one or two that got trashed in the process. I actually broke my old craftsman vise trying to break free a rusted bolt/sleeve :shock: (on the plus side, as soon as I find a store with a comparable craftsman vise in stock, I can trade it out).

1.5" lower, still have cutting to do on the valence.
Screenshot_20200624-105501.png


Going to use some small angle to clean up the cut edge.
IMG_20200613_160656.jpg


Modified this class 3 hitch (made for 2nd gen Montero)
Screenshot_20200624-130938.png


Drilled two new holes to space the receiver closer to the frame and not hang down as far, then cut off the top 2 holes section:
Screenshot_20200624-105406.png


Anyway, while I wait on the body mount bushings I'll be fitting up the rad and e-fan mounts, then wiring up the fan and bigger alt, THEN if all goes well and the body lift stuff is done, I can start working on the the fuel system some more on the 3.4. I hope it's just overfueling, but there could be a bigger problem, as the oil always smells like gas. If it's just overfueling, I have options. Maybe it's just the tune. But if it's not that, I'll be d-o-n-e with this motor.

Also, because I am a glutton for punishment, I picked up a bone stock 94 samurai with the 1.3 EFI.
Screenshot_20200624-104441.png

It was a beach rig, so more rust that I wanted to deal with, but I figured it will be a trail rig so what does it matter that much... the frame is good, the suspension is pretty ragged, but that's all going to be replaced. It was lady owned and never beat on, just used and maintained pretty normally. 107k miles. Probably bit off more than I need to chew right now, but it's a really fun little rig. My goal is to keep it low, light, nimble, and able to hang with much bigger and $$$ rigs. Probably end up on 33's, roll cage, steering upgrade, fenders reworked for more room + a small lift and slight wheelbase stretch, locked, super low gears. Should be a real heartbreaker out on the trail.
 

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Updates:

Jerry is THE MAN! His box o' body mount bushings showed up, and I was able to find one that worked perfect AND!!! there were 2 bolts in the box that I was able to use in the rear where I'd forgotten to buy enough resized replacements, and just by luck, they happened to fit just right. AWESOME. All mounts and bushings installed, and bolts loctite'd and torqued.

Next I needed to reattach the fuel filler hoses to the soft lines coming off the tank. The PHILIPS HEAD bolts that hold the fuel filler cover thing in the cargo area were the worst. Luckily, I just happened to have recently bought a "shake n break" attachment for an air hammer (the Samurai door hinges have notoriously difficult bigass philips head bolts). My air hammer was a little weak, but I coudn't use heat in that area and risk blowing stuff up. After spending an inordinate amount of time on these 3 bastiches, finally they were all out. They absolutely never loosened up. Every 1/4 turn was as much effort as breaking them free. They will be replaced with some hex bolts or allen heads at the least.

Screenshot_20200714-144038.png


Moving on to the steering - the steering shaft had an aluminum extension between the shaft and box, and the shaft itself may have had an extension welded in. Without the separate aluminum extension, the extended shaft is too short, and with the extension, it's too long - the shaft won't collapse enough to allow me to get it on. So I'm going to have to figure out what to disconnect where and either weld in an extension to remove the separate AL extension, or chop an inch out and reweld and reuse the separate ext.

I need to revise the fuel tank skid mounts to get that re-mounted, finish up the steering, and then I can focus on getting the rad, e-fan, and bigger alt mounted.

And I'd better hurry, because parts are starting to arrive for the Sami! I've got 6.5:1 gears and 31" tires waiting. I've got a cage, a locker, and electric power steering components on the way. I'm planning to run my old trooper rear springs under the rear of the Zuk and do a rear up front swap for the front suspension. Then a little virtual lift (fender chop and raise) and I'll be ready to do some open top SWB 4wheelin'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #778 ·
chuffer said:
I did a barrel roll in a Samurai on Guanella pass.

Don't do barrel rolls in your Sammy.

Also, the screws on that filler cover are THE worst.
That's why I got the full 6 point roll cage! Although I'm really hoping to limit it to a flop or maybe a turtle situation rather than a balls out barrel roll :blackeye:
 

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Discussion Starter · #780 ·
Thanks Brad, you know how it is - reality is usually full of fun surprises throughout a project!

Got done:

Rad mounts, Fan mounts, AD244 alt mounted and wired (both of which I'm not totally done with but will have to see) The alt had a 2 wire plug, I only need one, and I've capped the other for now. Will be testing to see if that will do.

To do:

weld up holes in floor (captive nut fun)
weld angle to rockers to clean that up
fuel tank skid mounts need revising after BL reduction
bend up rear bumper (sch 40 and HF bender, minimalist)
wire in fan (have all flex a lite stuff, instructions seem very good even for a hack like me! So as long as the part work, I shouldn't have too many problems)
mount LS seats (armrests yo!)

Next projects:

ALDL detective work on the fueling
suspension lift reduction, which will entail new track bar mounts, going from a high steer tie rod to just running the drag link to the pass high steer arm, and the tie rod on the stock knuckle provisions. That's the only way to make room to lower the track bar mounts and make room for some more uptravel and lower the suspension simultaneously. Will also need to make new motor mounts so that there's more room for the upper links/brackets. It's either that or lose the coils and links all together and going to leaves, which I've threatened for some time now.

Then I have lockers, tcase gears, cage, and suspension to do on the zuk!!!
 
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