Isuzu SUV Forum banner
1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
Congradulations on your purchase, and welcome back to the fam. You definately have an eye for beneficial tweaks. They all sound really reasonable, and I completely agree with your ideas on lifting for need more than just to have a extremely lifted rig.

I'll be keeping an eye out for your upgrades.

By the way, some of the hilux guys here in Chile take out the over load spring on the leafs but they say that the axel tends to rotate more, so many add anti pitch (rotate bars). Still, they sat that it depends on the strength of the pack as a whole as well. Factory springs tend to be softer on the hilux's and therefore taking out the oveload reduces their resestance. I don't know that that would be the case on w/ the troopers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
I understand what you're saying, and as i mentioned, I'm not real sure how much of an effect it would have on your HD springs, or on Trooper springs. Even though, from what i've heard, the trooper springs seem to be very soft. Not weak, just have good ride. The hilux guys have mentioned the warp occures mainly during heavy exceleration, and clearly in instances such as heavy acceloration while climbing with the full weight falling toward the back axel. If you understand what I'm saying.

Once again, I've never experienced this, nor am I saying that, this will happen. Just trying to give some food for thought so that you guys can hopefully work out the kinks before various versions of fabrications are needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
paulevans76 said:
Got the overloads removed and it dropped the rear down to a reasonable height. Front and rear of the side frame rails are almost even with a slight (~1/2") rake down toward the front.



Ride is cushy. Not too too soft, but not very firm. I need to look into new shocks all around and maybe stiffer coils up front, as I think quite a bit of the marshmellowyness is coming from up front. Eventually I'd like to get some sway bars for it for more stability on the street.
Do you know how much it actually dropped?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
paulevans76 said:
1.5", but that could be off a tad since i measured on grass.

I did some more digging while trying to figure out what new front coils to try, and found this pretty helpful for comparing spring rates of OME coils and leaf springs.
http://www.arbusa.com/Uploads/PDF/onlin ... urrent.pdf

It looks like the normal 'medium duty' 1st gen 4runner leaf springs (cs009r) have basically the same spring rate as the heavy duty trooper springs (cs029r), 217 & 216 lb/in respectively. The cs010r springs I have are actually 285 lb/in.

The coils I have up front are pro-comp TJ 4" lift units, with a 175 lb/in. I ordered up some rubicon express 3.5" lift coils, which have a 240 lb/in, so we will see what happens with those next week.
Good job on the ARB/OME cataloge. I have the Rancho catalog like that too. It's a really good reference.

Thanks for sharing it with us.

I hope the springs work out how you like, and nice work, on find the info and ordering. No hesitation.... Wow! Wish I could decide so quickly on spending money.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
imamonstertruck said:
Wow, I love this truck. :D

Would love to SAS my Trooper but I dont think I could do it!

Love it!

cheers
-Ian :blackeye:
Believe me ian, you could do it. With the guidance from the forum and a little study, plus a bit of welding/grinding/cutting practice, you'd have it done in no time. Well... if it's anything like my Daihatsu SOA project, it'll cost 2x's what you think, you'll drive it for 1 yr. it'll sit another year, and you will still not have it the way you want it. JK! :lol:

And I don't mind dropping a few bucks when its going to potentially improve the safety of my ride! I can always recoup some of the cost by selling the coils that are already on it.
I understand and agree completely.

As far as pics and sharing, your right about the purpose of forums, but we all know how challenging it can be to find time to do, share, and remember pics. So, thanks again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
Sounds like you have some plans for the rig. I hope they work out.

Is your 2.8 turbo diesel? I have a 2.8 turbo diesel in my trooper, and I ran 2.5" and a high flow thrush muffler. While it's very quite, because of the turbo, it breaths really well. In fact, the exhaust manifold flange mount is 2.5" id on mine. So, I was just curious about yours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
paulevans76 said:
Man I tell ya, the rest of the world gets all the cool stuff. The 70 series land cruisers are like what the troopers should have been. They have a similar look, shape, split rear door (although the little door is on the left on the cruisers), and a radius arm/coil suspension with solid axles front and rear. Oh and a sweet turbo diesel engine. And lots of different body options (single cab/double cab with bed or tray, 2 dr troop carrier, 4 door wagon - aka the trooper clone).

Here's a shot I took out in front of my pad at the construction camp I'm currently working from (Ambriz, Angola):



A pickup and a beat up wagon. Looks familiar don't it?
I know man. Here in Chile they have some of the Really Nice brand new landcruisers too. They're not cheap here though. Chile also got the Nissan Patrol diesels too. Those have the same look in the back. That kinda boxy look with the split door thing. The motor options were better for the Landcruisers and the Patrols though. Just makes me sick. I don't have the cash for either. Plus, the Patrols are even rarer than my trooper. So, I don't want to go that parts road nightmare.

Still, I'm not complaining. My trooper rides better than the landcruisers typically do.

Guy down the street from me has a LC 70's, an 1970's FJ, a 98-2000 Patrol, and a 98 Toyota Hilux. All of which are pretty maxxed out. Off-road gear wise. I hate driving by his house, in my mildly modified Trooper. :cry:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
paulevans76 said:
Pulled the 5th leaf out of the packs, leaving me essentially with the non-heavy duty version of these leaves, which also happens to be the same spring rate as the HD trooper springs. Can't tell exactly how much ride height I lost, but better than nothing. Didn't turn out too soft, so that's good. I'm going to ride it like this for a while and see how I like it. I still want to ditch most of the body lift, but that will take a ton of work that I don't have time for right now. Gonna drive it a few hundred miles this weekend, so I'll check and see how all my fluids are doing prior to heading out. Might get a little bit of wheelin' in!
Good to hear about all the progress and refinements! I'm sure your anti-warp bar is helping with the overweight leaf removal as well.
If you go wheeling, try and get us a few photos while your at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
bradzuzu said:
Cold air blowing out in the woods is just to cool !!
I have this 9 months of "Cold air blowing out in the woods", and I don't have any A/C. That's just what it is here. Naw... JK. I know what you mean.

paulevans76 said:
Trooper did great, put a lot of road miles on her. REALLY wish I had A/C and power windows and creature comforts like that for longer trips. Maybe one day I'll find a nice LS with a crapped out drivetrain to plop down on my chassis. I never cared about the luxury items, and in fact preferred not to have those things when I was younger, but nowadays, especially in summer...

Anyway, today I popped some 1.5" wheel spacers on all 4 corners. I know a lot of you dudes prefer to keep everything tucked in tight, but when you are a foot taller than stock, every little bit of stability helps. I know I say it every other post but I can't WAIT to get rid of most of this body lift!!! I can probably knock the suspension down another inch or two as well. I really want this trooper to become an all-around great rig, capable of comfortably (subjective, obviously) driving a few hours to the trail, handling all trails I can throw at it, and getting back home again without worry.

Now I'm going to head to 4wheelparts to grab a set of hubs (one of the dials has malfunctioned) and pick up one of the free tow straps that they are giving away this week.
I've always liked the low slung Rock Crawler look with the wide axles, low cntrs of grav, and crazy stability. I personally am looking forward to seeing this thing adjusted and refined to your liking. Brad does have a point about the wheeling photos tho. You SHOULD REALLY get some put up.

i also have 2" spacers on mine, and it's a lot more stable on off-camber trails. Granted I don't have a SAS, but us lowely IFS's can dream. I want to say that Matt over and INDY4x told me that the factory axles with 2" spacers ended up being 53", but I can't remember for shore. Then again, I have a 92 Trooper, and I don't remember the differences between 1st gens and second gens. So, that that I just said may be completely unimportant. :roll: Oh, well...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
paulevans76 said:
I'll try to snag a few pics soon. It doesn't look that much different yet. And as soon as I can hit the trails, there will be 4low porn for sure :)

IIRC, the 88+ 1st gens were roughly ~58" wide wms-wms, 2nd gens were around ~61" and the later wider ones were more like ~63". Factoring in wheel offset and wheel width and all that, you can be all over the place. If my calcs are right, my trooper with the stock 15x6's and 235/75's would have been ~65" measured to the outside of the tires. My current setup is more likely ~78-79" to the outside edges of the tires, so about 7" wider on each side. My total lift with body, suspension, and tires is probably around 11", but with 3 of those being body lift, my center of gravity is probably a little lower than that, probably 9.5" above stock. SO, by the "triangle" rule, i.e., 1" up should be balanced out by 1" wider each side to maintain stability, on paper, my rig is less stable than stock. But, the SAS and bigger tires/wheels make more of the weight unsprung, so it's probably about the same or not much worse. However, ideally, I want it to be MORE stable than a stock rig. What's the point in making something a little better in one area (ground clearance) and then lose out in another (stability)? That's mud truck mentality--go through some mud in a straight line fine, yay, but anything remotely off-camber and it's pucker factor 10.
Now that you mention the numbers, it was around 63" factory Matt told me, and with the 2" spacers on each side, I've got 67"s of axle length. My biggest problem is that I'm running the aluminum cast wheels that have a horrible negetive offset. So, almost all of my 2" gain was (by center line spacing) taken away by the wheels themselves. If that makes any sense.

Sorry about the screwed up stats. I've not memorized much of the Zu stats tbh. Thanks for that recap though!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
Man, That looks mean. I can't wait to see how awesome it'll be once you cut the body lift down. Very cool indeed.

impo I would look at getting the spare off the back door. Especially if you're going to use it off-road regularly, or your going to do major off-roading. In my experience, it always damages the hinges or latching mech, and even more so with an over sized tire. My Trooper back door leaks like a civ with the spare on, but is much better w/o it on there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
paulevans76 said:
No updates yet. Just about to be done with work, and I'm ready to be back home getting something done.

I've been emailing back and forth with the dudes at ECGS about getting some custom steering arms done. I want the BJ to drag link mount distance to match the pitman length, so that I'm getting all of the steering angle I can out of the knuckles, and also I'm going to have them taper the TRE mounts from the bottom, to mount the tie rod under the arm. I'll also need to move the drag link mount under the arm as well, which will then require me to to adjust the panhard mount on the frame to keep all my angles happy and the death wobbles away. May have to put a bend in the panhard to clear the oil pan...we'll see. That should gain me ~2" of clearance for more uptravel, which in turn will allow me to lower the suspension another 1-2" and have the same amount of uptravel I have now. I think I'll try using the OME 929 springs to lose the height and also for the dual rate, and I'll get a pair of those squishy bumpstops and mount those in place of the hard poly I have now. I want it to soak up the bumps!

In the rear I'll look at redrilling the stock spring mounts and maybe changing out a few leaves for stockers and see if I can lose another 1.5-2" back there.

Next will be replacing the 3" body lift with a 1". SO MANY THINGS will need to be adjusted, this may have to wait until after the next gig. Off the top of my head I have to deal with:

radiator
shifters
rock sliders
tail pipe
gas tank lift
front valence - bumper clearance
underhood bits mounted to firewall
potentially more hoses

Let me just put this out there:

If you ever plan to do a solid axle swap on your 'zu, DO NOT INSTALL A 3" BODY LIFT. It's totally unnecessary. I'd rather deal with things being slightly more difficult to work on in the garage than the higher COG on the road/trail. 1-1.5"? OK. 2" meh, ok, but did you really need it? 3"? NO!!!!

Engine, trans, case deliberations continue, but it will be a longer term goal than this stuff. Suspension and body lift adjustments first, MOAR POWER & GEARZ later.
Little upset I didn't get notice from the planet system that you had put this post up. Yeah... You've got A LOT going on with this rig. I think when it's done though, it will be even more balanced in use vs asthetic appeal. You've definately got your head around the problem areas, and that's cool to see. I'm learning a lot from the topics that you are bringing up. So, keep at it. I'm enjoying it. Looking forward to seeing your progress on it too!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
paulevans76 said:
Jem Andes said:
Little upset I didn't get notice from the planet system that you had put this post up. Yeah... You've got A LOT going on with this rig. I think when it's done though, it will be even more balanced in use vs asthetic appeal. You've definately got your head around the problem areas, and that's cool to see. I'm learning a lot from the topics that you are bringing up. So, keep at it. I'm enjoying it. Looking forward to seeing your progress on it too!
Thanks man, glad you're enjoying it. The big trade off on buying a pre-built rig is although you save a ton of time and money on the BIG stuff, to really get it where you want it, you end up spending a lot of time undoing and redoing seemingly little things. But as in any system, typically adjusting one thing required adjusting 2+ others.

Got back home yesterday and took the rig for a spin around the block today. Running pretty good. Took another peek underneath to look at things that will need adjusting with the body lift reduction, and good god there is a ton of gusseting on the slider mounts :shock: It's going to take quite a bit of time cutting, adjusting, and re-mounting them. Gas tank won't be too bad, just a cumbersome job. I just need to find time to start!
I hear ya. I've got one truck w/o a rear axle under it, getting a spoa redo, and being re-converted back over to 3 link from 4 link status. Then I've got my podcast, and the Trooper. Not to mention the Beginners Fab Web Tv eps. So, I understand not having the time.

I can't wait to see this thing done though. How do you think you'll drop the take. I typically use a jack and blocks, but with the height of your rig, I don't know how possible that would be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
paulevans76 said:
I'm not sure to be honest. I'm sure I'll end up rigging stuff up on the fly. I have plenty of straps and stuff, blocks I can put under the jack, etc. I'm hoping I can just remove the skid plate and do the rest via adjusting things in situ. If it's anything like a normal trooper job, it will require dropping the tank and 17 other things I didn't think of, requiring at least 5 separate trips to the parts store :)
Honestly, I'm the same way. I run over a change 100 times in my head, and I try to plan as best I can. Still, it takes me 3-8 trips to get it right. I usually see if my mechanic friend is going so he can pick my parts with his. Saves me a few hours of wasted time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,068 Posts
VXorado said:
lorenzo816 said:
two things guys, my drag link is 'bent' to clear the bracket - but my high steer arms make the tie rod bar clear the cover fine. Hmnnn
The final results on your build turned out awesome! No matter how hard I try, my welds will never look as pretty as the ones on your Rodeo. :D
I know the feeling... I'm right there with you. My welds hold well, but don't look nearly that good.
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top