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Huh. Cool rig and good intel on the springs.

I am trying to figure out how to do a low lift spring over on my Trooper. I am planning a couple of things to minimize lift:

1. re-drill the front spring hanger and move the hole 1 to 1.5" closer to the frame (.5 to .75" drop),
2. Bottom of spring mount flush with the top of the axle housing,
3. Pulling both overloads out of my Trooper OME Dakar pack. Bradzipple seems to think this is a bad idea. (1" drop),
4. Shortening the rear shackle as much as I can without loosing travel (0.5" drop),
5. If necessary, french the rear shackle hanger into the frame (0.5 to 0.75" drop).

Might be worth taking a look at those points as well if you are trying to loose some lift...
 

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Yeah, I looked at Alcans and having some springs locally made. To get what I was looking for (spring under and about 6 inches lift) was pricing out at $750. I figured I can do lots of cutting and get Brad to do a lot of welding for that price...as always I will be cuttin the piss out of things and then he puts them back together...

The front hanger is pretty tall. It looks like there is room to raise, trim it and still have room to clear flex. What makes this process (slightly) more complicated is that there are a couple of holes on mount that would need patching and I think the "nuts" are integral to the mount. Not really big issues, just two more steps along the way. 5" shackles are my target. I am at 6" right now.
 

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Frankly driving in 4Hi on pavement is gonna make all sorts of components bind up. Making a tight turn is just going to make it worse. I wouldn't worry about any of this stuff. Back when my truck had stock running gear the damned thing was just about un-driveable on dry pavement in 4hi...only ever did it one time and swore never again. A couple of seconds between snow patches is one thing, around the hood...NFW.

One example of left to right differences that you will have is the axle shaft length in the front axle. Those shafts (elastically) twist quite a bit during service. The driver side shaft is a lot longer than the p-side, which means it can absorb a lot more twist before something else binds.

Another thing to consider is your ackerman angle. If you are running aftermarket steering arms, I can almost guarantee that it is wrong. If your wheelbase or trackwidth is different from the donor rig, that will also cause ackerman angle changes. Your inside front wheel is supposed to turn more than your outside wheel - this is what the ackerman angle confirms / measures. If the Ackerman angle is wrong, things will bind in high traction situations. The imaginary line between your TRE-hole and your front kingpin is supposed to intersect your rear differential. If that ain't the case, your ackerman is screwed. I see a lot of aftermarket steering arms that actually have the ackerman angle "backwards." By "backwards" I mean that the line from the TRE hole to the Kingpin hole runs outboard of the vehicle as you follow the line backwards.

One way or the other, I wouldn't sweat poor road manners in high-traction situations with 4-hi engaged.

FYI, Ackerman Angle:

 

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paulevans76 said:
But the RCV gear will be smoother on the street if/when I get this thing 4wd-streetable again, so it edged out the traditional shafts and joints.
Not to be a jerk or beat a dead horse, but why? 4wd on pavement with a locked transfer case is always always always gonna bind. Best case is it'll drive terribly and wear out tires. Worst case is grenading something serious in the driveline.
 

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Interesting comments.

Throttle blip - drives me nuts. I have the exact same problem when trying to hold the throttle just off idle. Bump something, rev, let-off the throttle, stall, rinse & repeat.

Low - gearing - until you get into stupid low gear ratios (like in the 200s), I don't think there is such a thing as too low or too many.

I see a lot of talk of range boxes for NP stuff on Pirate, but never really pay that much attention. I am interested to see what you do. One thing I do seem to recall is that gearing for the 205 is extremely limited without MAJOR mods.

Post some pictures so I can live vicariously through your wheeling...
 

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Did you just hint at buying Bart's princess Trooper?

Hand-throttle-idea is great. I think about that too. The biggest annoyance for me is the bump throttle. I don't know if it is me or the geometry in the cab, but if I hit a hole or a bump at low speed, I blip the throttle. It makes for a lot of, "Um, dude, what were you trying to do back there?"

FZJ80 Axles - Yup.

Winch - seriously? You wheel and don't have a winch? Not being a dick, but out here on group trips you'd get one warning and then be told not to come back until you had a winch. I assume you have have jack points, pull points front & rear, sewn tow strap, sewn tree strap, spill kit, first aid kit, shovel and a fire extinguisher, right? Again, not being a dick, but that is the list of mandatory stuff for trips that are organized by our "non-club." These were items that "we" noticed that we were using constantly and lending out constantly.

A rear bumper for these is very easy to mount. I am sure with a day's work you could knock something out...that looks a lot less "beginner" than mine.

DD Trooper - yeah me too. If I ever do a full on drivetrain swap, that is where Stinky's drivetrain will wind up.

I lover making lists like this. I hardly ever follow them, but they help sort out the ideas into needs, wants and nice-to-haves.
 

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Watcha doing up in MI? I am in the greater Detroit area pretty often... Still gotta get down to the the NC area to visit some customers too. You said you weren't far from Hickory, right?

I am pretty sure that my drivetrain moves quite a bit when I grab the back of the output and torque on it. Also with the shifter covers removed things are gonna be loud!! You will hear all sorts of scary stuff, but I wouldn't worry too much unless you are hearing weird stuff under load. $0.01
 

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Could you avoid a lot of the lower valence chopping by mounting the solenoid pack under the hood?

FWIW, the entire center sectino of my valence is long gone...and the orginal core support...and the middle of the grill. The winch is more important than a little sheet metal.

Oh, yeah: gorilla taping sheet metal back together? That is some royal-deluxe level booty fab.
 

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paulevans76 said:
Finally got a couple mins to pull the plugs and put a small amount of oil in the cylinders. Just in case they were washed out. I noticed that on my no. 4 plug, I had managed to take a little bit of the stinkin' remflex exhaust gasket in with the plug, so there was a bunch of gunk in the hole to clean up/out. Gonna get the starter crap done tomorrow. Really running out of steam on this whole thing with the lack of time and the lack of noticeable progress. I feel like every time I tinker on it, I notice about 8 more hours of work that needs to be done after the big stuff is out of the way.
"It's the journey; not the destination."

My wife needs to remind me every now and then that is a hobby that I chose...so, I should enjoy the challenges instead of throwing tools and scaring the dogs. :alien:
 

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Good for you.

To be clear, I am not saying that I enjoyed chasing damned ping in my last motor or that I am currently enjoying the fact that my effing new motor still leaks after eleventy brazilian attempts to seal it up. I am just trying to saying that it is all self-inflicted...and I find that reminding myself that it's a choice helps...sometimes...throwing wrenches and kicking stuff helps sometimes too...
 

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Is that a light at the end of the tunnel or just your mind playing tricks on you here in the dark?

paulevans76 said:
Status update:

...and also install a delrin TRE boot (dead spot "fix") on the draglink-tie rod connection. Hopefully that helps bandaid/slightly improve the dead spot in my steering. I'd like to get that done for a break-in road trip to see a wheelin' buddy back east who has also spent the past year in tinker-mode.
Are you running one of those "Y-type" setups where the drag-link mounts to the tie-rod? With the radius-arm set-up you should have plenty of room to run cross-over steering, no?
 
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