Clutch hard line connection leaking - '89 trooper 2.6

1313 Views 9 Replies 6 Participants Last post by msgeastham, May 28, 2021

msgeastham

Discussion Starter · Jan 8, 2021

I'm in the middle of replacing the clutch hydraulics on my 89 Trooper 2.6L, including new master cylinder, slave cylinder and rubber hose (also bypassing the damper). I got everything installed and connected and started bleeding and clutch fluid was noticeably leaking out of the connection from the hard line to the rubber hose that leads to the slave cylinder. I disconnected and reconnected it to make sure it was snug and tightened it down but it continued to leak.

I took everything apart and got a look at the flaring on the hardline, expecting it to be bunged up and require a new flare but I didn't see any real issues... same with the connection on the rubber hose.

It's hard to really tell anything form these photos but I'll attach them anyway:

Is there something I'm missing on what could cause a leak like this? I haven't had this issue before when replacing clutch parts.

I don't think I could have really gotten the line nut any tighter without breaking something.

Should I go back to using the original rubber hose? There are some very small differences but they seem basically identical.

Thanks!

Mike

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Big Bear

· #2 · Jan 9, 2021

Not really an answer to your question , but...... After dealing with the headache of bleeding mine 4 times , i bought a 1 piece hose that Eric at Classic City Overland (FB) makes for these rigs. Yeah , it was 80 bucks (gulp) , but an hours worth of work (which included unplumbing all the OE stuff) and I've never had a better pedal. It was money well spent.

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msgeastham

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jan 9, 2021

Thanks for the info. I think that sounds like a good solution that will be worthwhile in the long run. I sent Eric an email so hopefully I can get this sorted out soon. Still not sure why the old setup was leaking, maybe I didn't have the hard line seated correctly before tightening the line nut. Either way, I'm excited about simplifying the bleeding process.

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Duntov

· #4 · Jan 11, 2021

I just went thru all this. Just a warning, do not throw out those fittings as they are nearly impossible to find anywhere. I took out the junction between the MC and the SC (sorry, forgot what that part is called) and ran a hard line that I made between the two. Now it bleads super easy with a power bleeder.

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msgeastham

Discussion Starter · #5 · Jan 19, 2021

Duntov said:
I just went thru all this. Just a warning, do not throw out those fittings as they are nearly impossible to find anywhere. I took out the junction between the MC and the SC (sorry, forgot what that part is called) and ran a hard line that I made between the two. Now it bleads super easy with a power bleeder.

What fittings are you referring to? Are you suggesting not to throw the fittings away in the event that I want to re-run the original hardline set-up Instead of the stainless-steel hose that I'm switching over to?

Thanks,

Mike

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NAES

· #6 · Jan 20, 2021

It might just be the pic but the angle of the inner flare on the left (shiney) one looks different than the rusty one on the right.

Also, the one on the left looks like there's pits or something at the tip of the cone section. That will prevent it from sealing properly.

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Duntov

· #7 · May 28, 2021

msgeastham said:
Duntov said:

I just went thru all this. Just a warning, do not throw out those fittings as they are nearly impossible to find anywhere. I took out the junction between the MC and the SC (sorry, forgot what that part is called) and ran a hard line that I made between the two. Now it bleads super easy with a power bleeder.

Click to expand...

What fittings are you referring to? Are you suggesting not to throw the fittings away in the event that I want to re-run the original hardline set-up Instead of the stainless-steel hose that I'm switching over to?

Thanks,

Mike

Yes - I used those original metric fittings that you can't easily find anymore and then made my own hard line (versus buying the custom made one I think from that guy in Canada).

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Shawn Anthony

· #8 · May 28, 2021

Cut the flair off and reflair the tube.

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DSUZU

· #9 · May 28, 2021

Agree that the seats on the two hoses do look a bit different. Does it leak if you put the old hose back on? Personally, I haven't had the best of luck with cutting and flaring metal lines.
In dealing with 45 degree HYDRAULIC fittings, my hydraulic supplier has copper gaskets that can be used between male and female fittings when leaks are a problem. Dennis

1991 LS Trooper 2.8 V6 5 speed conversion (Sold)
1989 LS Spacecab 2.6 5 speed 4x4 manual hubs, Rodeo torsion bars, extended shackles, 2" lift, K&N air filter (drop in), dump bed conversion, burgundy interior change, warn brush bar. Engine is bored .020 oversize and upgraded to 1994 pistons, head and EFI system.
Previously owned: 1987 Trooper II LS, 1989 Trooper (parts only), 1994 Trooper 3.2 Auto, 1997 Rodeo 2.6 5 speed, 1993 shortbed pickup 2.3 (project - sold) 1992 Rodeo 4x4 LS (parts car, devoured by Spacecab needs) plus some 70 plus other non Isuzu vehicles over the years. 1994 Amigo devoured to provide head and EFI system.
Heavily damaged by engine compartment fire while driving on March 24th 2018, condemned by insurance company and taken on March 30th 2018

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msgeastham

Discussion Starter · #10 · May 28, 2021

I ended up taking big bears advice and got the 1 piece stainless steel hose. It was a very easy to install and bleed. Never tried the old hose or attempted to redo the flare in the original though those options probably would have worked. I liked the idea of having easier maintenance with the clutch in the future if needed.

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