Nice work. I'm not sure why this post didn't show up for me when I've clicked new posts over the last three days. I only found it by accident, but I'm glad that I did.
What winch did you use?
What winch did you use?
I bought the winch from Lowes. It is an X-Power (formerly Carry-On) 10k winch. For $350, it came with synthetic rope, fairlead, and a form for a one year warranty through the manufacturer. I can't speak on how it performs though since I have yet to get in a situation where I've needed it.Nice work. I'm not sure why this post didn't show up for me when I've clicked new posts over the last three days. I only found it by accident, but I'm glad that I did.
What winch did you use?
I had no idea you even did this! I like yours waayyyy better than mineI'm going share how I installed a xj winch bumper onto my first gen Rodeo (1994). I would like to credit Nathaniel K. Smith on Facebook for his initial post 'https://m.facebook.com/groups/14218..._profile_feed&ref=m_notif¬if_t=group_activity'. The total cost was about $600. This was for the bumper, metal, and hardware.
Materials:
- EAG front bumper with LED lights and winch plate for 84-01 Cherokee
https://www.amazon.com/EAG-Cherokee-Offroad-Bumper-Pre-Runner/dp/B07DS6M4C6/ref=sr_1_4?crid=24SIKK2VSBAG2&keywords=eag+xj+bumper&qid=1636571139&sprefix=eag+xj+bu,aps,221&sr=8-4
- 12"x18"x0.25" steel plate
- 2"x3"x(60"?) 3/16" rectangular tubing
- x8 bolts with hardware (0.5" I believe)
- x4 turn signal bolts
Tools:
- Angle Grinder
- Welder
- Stepped drill bit
- Various sockets and other basic tools
Process:
First I removed the stock bumper off of my Rodeo. Note that 4 bolts hold the bumper to the frame (2 on each side side); Hold onto those 4 bolts because we'll be utilizing those and the mounting points. I also removed the grille.
When the bumper is removed, you'll notice two metal tubes sticking straight forward out of the frame. I positioned the 2x3 rectangular tube directly in front of those two tubes. Both sides of the rectangular tube were cut to be flush with the outside of the frame. I then welded the rectangular tubing into place.
Referencing the post by Nathaniel, the L brackets that attach the bumper to the frame should be flipped to make then as wide as possible. This width perfectly matches the frame of the Rodeo. I then drilled 4 additional holes into the bracket so that 4 bolts hold each bracket to the bumper. I used the bolts provided for this.
Next, I set the bumper into the approximate place I wanted it using a tower of wood blocks. To attach the L brackets to the 4 mounting points on the frame, an L shaped piece of plate metal is needed for each side. I was able to make both L pieces by using a 12"x18" piece of 0.25" plate. You results may vary depending on bumper placement. After cutting the rough L shaped pieces, I clamped them into their place in order to mark additional places to cut and as well as places to drill holes. Note that I will be welding the rectangular tubing to the corner of the L pieces.
View attachment 120849 View attachment 120850
View attachment 120851 View attachment 120853
After the L pieces were cut down to their final size, I bolted then to the frame of the rodeo with the 4 original bolts. I then also bolted the bumper (and subsequently its L brackets) to the L pieces. The 8 bolts for this step had to be bought along with the nuts and washers. I believe I used a 0.5" bolt with a length of 1.5" I then welded the rectangular tubing to both of the L pieces. These attachment points should be plenty strong for the application. As a comparison, the bumper is only supposed to attach to a xj with 6 bolts.
One will note that the Rodeo's turn signals came off with the original bumper. I then attached the housings to the bumper. I did this by making a stencil that would allow the housing to pass into the bumper and bolt up. I then taped the stencil to the bumper and cut it out. I had to buy 4 small bolts that would pass through both the housing and the bumper. Isuzu left plenty of wire for the turn signals. As such they plug back into the hardness with room to spare.
View attachment 120854 View attachment 120855
At this point, I went one step further. I cut up some remaining rectangular tubing to create two more attachment points from the bottom of the bumper to the original rectangular cross brace. Unfortunately I have no photos of this.
To attach the grille, some cutting may be required. The top surface of the bumper just barely didn't clear the grille for me.
View attachment 120857 View attachment 120858
The bumper is basically done. Be mindful to paint the bare metal throughout the build during which it best makes sense. The wiring for the bumper's lights is left up to you. A winch fit just perfectly for me. Be mindful that it was quite tricky to secure the winch onto the bumper while attached to the Rodeo. It might be easier to attach the winch while the bumper is still off the car. I do also want to mention that the bumper is not welded to the Rodeo, it can be unbolted whenever. The only things that are welded to the Rodeo is the rectangular tubing which subsequently has the L pieces welded to it. I hope some people found benefit to this post. This is by no means a very professional post but, between this and the linked Facebook post, anyone should be able to copy this.
Question. It seems you ended up doing what i did to reduce the shimmy shake by welding additional attachment points to the center of the front frame. Would you mind posting pics? This is almost a must.I'm going share how I installed a xj winch bumper onto my first gen Rodeo (1994). I would like to credit Nathaniel K. Smith on Facebook for his initial post 'https://m.facebook.com/groups/14218..._profile_feed&ref=m_notif¬if_t=group_activity'. The total cost was about $600. This was for the bumper, metal, and hardware.
Materials:
- EAG front bumper with LED lights and winch plate for 84-01 Cherokee
https://www.amazon.com/EAG-Cherokee-Offroad-Bumper-Pre-Runner/dp/B07DS6M4C6/ref=sr_1_4?crid=24SIKK2VSBAG2&keywords=eag+xj+bumper&qid=1636571139&sprefix=eag+xj+bu,aps,221&sr=8-4
- 12"x18"x0.25" steel plate
- 2"x3"x(60"?) 3/16" rectangular tubing
- x8 bolts with hardware (0.5" I believe)
- x4 turn signal bolts
Tools:
- Angle Grinder
- Welder
- Stepped drill bit
- Various sockets and other basic tools
Process:
First I removed the stock bumper off of my Rodeo. Note that 4 bolts hold the bumper to the frame (2 on each side side); Hold onto those 4 bolts because we'll be utilizing those and the mounting points. I also removed the grille.
When the bumper is removed, you'll notice two metal tubes sticking straight forward out of the frame. I positioned the 2x3 rectangular tube directly in front of those two tubes. Both sides of the rectangular tube were cut to be flush with the outside of the frame. I then welded the rectangular tubing into place.
Referencing the post by Nathaniel, the L brackets that attach the bumper to the frame should be flipped to make then as wide as possible. This width perfectly matches the frame of the Rodeo. I then drilled 4 additional holes into the bracket so that 4 bolts hold each bracket to the bumper. I used the bolts provided for this.
Next, I set the bumper into the approximate place I wanted it using a tower of wood blocks. To attach the L brackets to the 4 mounting points on the frame, an L shaped piece of plate metal is needed for each side. I was able to make both L pieces by using a 12"x18" piece of 0.25" plate. You results may vary depending on bumper placement. After cutting the rough L shaped pieces, I clamped them into their place in order to mark additional places to cut and as well as places to drill holes. Note that I will be welding the rectangular tubing to the corner of the L pieces.
View attachment 120849 View attachment 120850
View attachment 120851 View attachment 120853
After the L pieces were cut down to their final size, I bolted then to the frame of the rodeo with the 4 original bolts. I then also bolted the bumper (and subsequently its L brackets) to the L pieces. The 8 bolts for this step had to be bought along with the nuts and washers. I believe I used a 0.5" bolt with a length of 1.5" I then welded the rectangular tubing to both of the L pieces. These attachment points should be plenty strong for the application. As a comparison, the bumper is only supposed to attach to a xj with 6 bolts.
One will note that the Rodeo's turn signals came off with the original bumper. I then attached the housings to the bumper. I did this by making a stencil that would allow the housing to pass into the bumper and bolt up. I then taped the stencil to the bumper and cut it out. I had to buy 4 small bolts that would pass through both the housing and the bumper. Isuzu left plenty of wire for the turn signals. As such they plug back into the hardness with room to spare.
View attachment 120854 View attachment 120855
At this point, I went one step further. I cut up some remaining rectangular tubing to create two more attachment points from the bottom of the bumper to the original rectangular cross brace. Unfortunately I have no photos of this.
To attach the grille, some cutting may be required. The top surface of the bumper just barely didn't clear the grille for me.
View attachment 120857 View attachment 120858
The bumper is basically done. Be mindful to paint the bare metal throughout the build during which it best makes sense. The wiring for the bumper's lights is left up to you. A winch fit just perfectly for me. Be mindful that it was quite tricky to secure the winch onto the bumper while attached to the Rodeo. It might be easier to attach the winch while the bumper is still off the car. I do also want to mention that the bumper is not welded to the Rodeo, it can be unbolted whenever. The only things that are welded to the Rodeo is the rectangular tubing which subsequently has the L pieces welded to it. I hope some people found benefit to this post. This is by no means a very professional post but, between this and the linked Facebook post, anyone should be able to copy this.
I uploaded the pics to the main post. I never really considered replacing body mounts until now. Would you mind providing the part number for the energy suspension mounts?Question. It seems you ended up doing what i did to reduce the shimmy shake by welding additional attachment points to the center of the front frame. Would you mind posting pics? This is almost a must.
second. You should replace those body mounts pronto. With the added weight up front, the mounts are going to wear out faster. Energy suspensions largest universal mounts worked for 8 of the 12 on the trooper.
They are energy suspensions universal body mounts. Amazon is your best bet for price. For the correct part go to energy suspensions website and search for body mounts under the universal menu. There are only two options, get the larger ones.I uploaded the pics to the main post. I never really considered replacing body mounts until now. Would you mind providing the part number for the energy suspension mounts?