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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys bear with me if some of the description seems rather bland. So last night i decided to change out my rotors and pads that i had just recently bought.
I took off the wheel and unbolted the set of 6 bolts holding on the black hub housing (btw i have auto locking hubs).

Next, i removed the set of the other 6 bolts that looked to be holding on the entire medal hub to the disc brake.

After I removed the bolts I couldnt get the hub to slide out, so I undid the little snap ring and and took out the other two locking mechanisms of the hub (I'm sorry i dont know what theyre called :? )

I still couldn't get the entire metal hub to break loose of the rotor. I didn't want to pry it off so i knocked it a couple times with a rubber mallet, but still no good.

I've read the write up on the how-to's about the front bearing repack, but for some reason have not been able to pull up the main page the past few days. the main page works today, but the article wont show when you click on it.

i know I've heard of people doing it but haven't seen any write ups except for the one on the main page. Can someone explain to me what the next step is? If you all are familiar with the "front bearing repack article i'm talking about then you will notice the display picture. That was where i got stumped and could not figure it out.

Your help will be appreciated!!! :)
 

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Did you loosen the wheel bearing lock nut? Its held by 3 small phillip head screws and the heads can strip easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thats what I was afraid of. i saw those three screws and tried to unscrew them but didn't want to strip them. Is that the last obstacle to getting off the hub?
 

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You need to remove the lock nut. That holds the hub onto the spindle. I use a hammer to tap the screw driver deep into the head. Then loosen the screw quickly with a "snapping motion".
Dont worry too much about damaging the screws, they are a common machine screw that you can pick up at home depot. Once you get them removed, look on the lock nut for two holes that arent threaded.
Those holes are meant for a special tool, that removes the lock nut. You can just use a punch and turn it counter clockwise. Some times I just stick my screw driver in there and turn it counter clockwise.
Be careful not to put it in the wrong holes where the screws thread in. Another important thing is to have the correct pre-load when you put the bearing lock nut washer back on.
To do that, first tighten the nut all the way, so the bearings can seat properly, then loosen it and tighten it down to about 3-5lbs resistance from the studs. I have instructions from JLEMOND. I'll post it up later.
 

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nickgust44 said:
Thats what I was afraid of. i saw those three screws and tried to unscrew them but didn't want to strip them. Is that the last obstacle to getting off the hub?
si senor.

YOu take off those three screws.....which will probably strip :?

And then under that there is a hub nut that you have to undo. It will probably be loose enough to undo it with a two screw drivers but putting it back on involves using a hub socket.
 

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found it!...

JLEMOND said:
HERE IS THE WAY THAT YOU ADJUST THE FRT WHEEL BEARING RETAINING NUT WITH THE HUB AND ROTOR INSTALLED BEARIGNS ARE ALL GREASED AND INSTALLED WITH THE HUB SEAL,

TAKE A PAIR OF LONG NOSE PLIERS AND SPIN THE ADJUSTING NUT UP AGAINST THE BEARIGNS AS TIGHT AS YOU CAN GET IT , USE A SCREWDRIVER THRU THE PLIERS FOR EXTRA TORQUE, THIS IS TOO SEAT THE BEARIGNS TO THE HUB, NOW LOOSEN THE NUT BACK UP UNTILL THE ROTOR SPINS FREE AGAIN, NOW WITH THE PLIERS ONLY TIGHTEN THE NUT BACK UP UNTILL THE NUT TOUCHES THE BEARIGNS AND JUST SNUG THE NUT UP AGAINST THE BEARIGNS ABOTU ANOTHER 1/8 IN TURN IT DOESNT TAKE MUCH, NOW INSTALL THE LOCK PLATE AND INSTALL THE THREE LITTLE SCREWS, AND YOU SHOULD BE IN GOOD SHAPE,, WHEN YOU GO TO MOUNT THE ROTOR ONTHE NEW HUB BE SURE AND CLEAN ALL THE RUST FROM THE SURFACE WHER E THE ROTOR GOES ON THE HUB AND MAYBE PUT A SMALL AMOUNT OF ANTISIEZE ON THE HUB SO THAT THE ROTOR WONT STICK NEXT TIME YOU HAVE TO REMOVE IT JERRY
 

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Insert the spindle nut socket lugs into the two large holes and turn CCW to remove the nut. Once the nut is off, slide the hub off after removing the caliper and bracket.


01 Rodeo Sport Ironman 4X4 V6 133K miles
01 Rodeo Sport 4X4 V6 48K miles
02 Rodeo Sport 4X4 V6 64K miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dae said:
found it!...

JLEMOND said:
HERE IS THE WAY THAT YOU ADJUST THE FRT WHEEL BEARING RETAINING NUT WITH THE HUB AND ROTOR INSTALLED BEARIGNS ARE ALL GREASED AND INSTALLED WITH THE HUB SEAL,

TAKE A PAIR OF LONG NOSE PLIERS AND SPIN THE ADJUSTING NUT UP AGAINST THE BEARIGNS AS TIGHT AS YOU CAN GET IT , USE A SCREWDRIVER THRU THE PLIERS FOR EXTRA TORQUE, THIS IS TOO SEAT THE BEARIGNS TO THE HUB, NOW LOOSEN THE NUT BACK UP UNTILL THE ROTOR SPINS FREE AGAIN, NOW WITH THE PLIERS ONLY TIGHTEN THE NUT BACK UP UNTILL THE NUT TOUCHES THE BEARIGNS AND JUST SNUG THE NUT UP AGAINST THE BEARIGNS ABOTU ANOTHER 1/8 IN TURN IT DOESNT TAKE MUCH, NOW INSTALL THE LOCK PLATE AND INSTALL THE THREE LITTLE SCREWS, AND YOU SHOULD BE IN GOOD SHAPE,, WHEN YOU GO TO MOUNT THE ROTOR ONTHE NEW HUB BE SURE AND CLEAN ALL THE RUST FROM THE SURFACE WHER E THE ROTOR GOES ON THE HUB AND MAYBE PUT A SMALL AMOUNT OF ANTISIEZE ON THE HUB SO THAT THE ROTOR WONT STICK NEXT TIME YOU HAVE TO REMOVE IT JERRY
Ok so just to confirm. The circular disc around the geared rod is called the wheel bearing lock nut? and the lock nut connects to the wheel bearings?
BTW thanks for all the help guys
 

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nickgust44 said:
Ok so just to confirm. The circular disc around the geared rod is called the wheel bearing lock nut? and the lock nut connects to the wheel bearings?
BTW thanks for all the help guys
I dont know what its called, but thats what I call it. :lol: Jerry refers to it as the wheel bearing retaining nut. Same difference I guess.

But yes you are correct. Once you remove the screws, youll see a thin washer piece with alot of holes in it, just take that out and it will expose the bearing retaining nut.
The retaining nut is not actually connected to the bearings. When you remove the nut, then you'll see the outer bearing. You can see the retaining nut in the picture that Buster posted.
Once you remove it, you should be all clear to remove the hub from the rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok sounds good... one last question though.
Last night when i was messing around with the retaining nut, i tried removing that little snap ring thing as seen in the picture that buster posted... i couldn't get it off.
When i unscrew the 3 screws from the retaining nut, will this snap ring thing come out too.?
 

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To remove the 3 screws I use the phillips head bit from a screwdriver that has changeable bits. Hold that with some vice grips and put light CCW tension on it, then start smacking with a screwdriver, not hard but with a little force. Always gets screws loose without stripping them. That trick also works well for the small allen screws on superwinch hubs.

I'm pretty sure my front bearings are too tight after I repacked them. I kept tightening little by little and the force to turn them never went up. Oh well, I have another set ready when these implode lol. They were way too lose before. I just turned the axle nut with my fingers to take them off.
 

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In case you get overwhelmed, I provide the following pics. Begin at paragraph 18 (bold print) and stop at paragraph 19. Take a breath, chill, get your game face on, begin reading.







 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Gizmo42 said:
To remove the 3 screws I use the phillips head bit from a screwdriver that has changeable bits. Hold that with some vice grips and put light CCW tension on it, then start smacking with a screwdriver, not hard but with a little force. Always gets screws loose without stripping them. That trick also works well for the small allen screws on superwinch hubs.

I'm pretty sure my front bearings are too tight after I repacked them. I kept tightening little by little and the force to turn them never went up. Oh well, I have another set ready when these implode lol. They were way too lose before. I just turned the axle nut with my fingers to take them off.
How do you know when or if you have tightened them too much or too little? I'm going to be going down to Arizona State University for school in a couple weeks from N. California. I just don't want the 12 hour drive to break anything if i end up doing it wrong haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
shooter said:
In case you get overwhelmed, I provide the following pics. Begin at paragraph 18 (bold print) and stop at paragraph 19. Take a breath, chill, get your game face on, begin reading.
Shooter you're awesome man!! This definitely helps... where did you find this info? Repair manual?
 

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Didn't realize yours was so new til now. If yours is like the one in the pics, it's a whole bunch easier to separate the wheel hub from the rotor before removing them from the vehicle. With all the crap out of the way, you see the large nuts attaching the rotor to the hub. Take a crow bar, large screwdriver, what have you and wedge it between one the the bolts / hub with the other end on the ground. This will help you break some of them loose while it prevents the hub from turning on you. You'll need to reposition it a time or two and turn the hub a little as you work your way around the bolts. Hope this part is understandable. I can draw a pic if needed but I guarantee it will suck big time. :lol:
 

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nickgust44 said:
shooter said:
In case you get overwhelmed, I provide the following pics. Begin at paragraph 18 (bold print) and stop at paragraph 19. Take a breath, chill, get your game face on, begin reading.
Shooter you're awesome man!! This definitely helps... where did you find this info? Repair manual?
Got it from my Haynes which is good now and then. Got to take it with a grain of salt. Aftermarket manuals have issues at times. This section is correct. If you need some pics of the brake caliper removal/install just holler and I'll scan those in too. Gotta help folks; we're all we have. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
shooter said:
Didn't realize yours was so new til now. If yours is like the one in the pics, it's a whole bunch easier to separate the wheel hub from the rotor before removing them from the vehicle. With all the crap out of the way, you see the large nuts attaching the rotor to the hub. Take a crow bar, large screwdriver, what have you and wedge it between one the the bolts / hub with the other end on the ground. This will help you break some of them loose while it prevents the hub from turning on you. You'll need to reposition it a time or two and turn the hub a little as you work your way around the bolts. Hope this part is understandable. I can draw a pic if needed but I guarantee it will suck big time. :lol:
Ahh no worries man. I just appreciate that you took the time to actually scan that stuff and throw it on here. I'll do what you were suggesting in the next day or two. I can't wait to get those slotted rotors on to see how they do..
 

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nickgust44 said:
Gizmo42 said:
To remove the 3 screws I use the phillips head bit from a screwdriver that has changeable bits. Hold that with some vice grips and put light CCW tension on it, then start smacking with a screwdriver, not hard but with a little force. Always gets screws loose without stripping them. That trick also works well for the small allen screws on superwinch hubs.

I'm pretty sure my front bearings are too tight after I repacked them. I kept tightening little by little and the force to turn them never went up. Oh well, I have another set ready when these implode lol. They were way too lose before. I just turned the axle nut with my fingers to take them off.
How do you know when or if you have tightened them too much or too little? I'm going to be going down to Arizona State University for school in a couple weeks from N. California. I just don't want the 12 hour drive to break anything if i end up doing it wrong haha
If you're not really comfortable by doing them by feel, do the following:

1. run the bearing retainer nut or whatever it's called up to the point where you can't turn it any more or pretty tight depending on your strength. This will seat the bearing. Back it off some and prepare to set the bearing preload.

2. Get a small fish scale from walmart, whoever. Something along this line. Should be under 10.00. http://www.chinatraderonline.com/scale/ ... 330120.htm The kind with a hook on the end of a spring. Appy the hook to a stud and hold the other end of the scale with right hand on the driver side; left hand passenger side. See illustration.


3. The wheel bearing preload is around 3.5 lbs. Not much

4. Attach the scale as demonstrated and turn the hub. Watch the scale and stop when in the range of 3.3 - 4.5 or so. Just depends. I do this on top and bottom. Remove spring. You want the hub (no tire/wheel mounted yet or brakes) to move freely with just a hint of drag. An itty bitty hint. You might need to go a smidge tighter or looser to get the 3 screw to align with their threaded holes. Better a bit loose than too tight. When I say loose, I mean so small that it's not detectable. Kind of hard to explain
 

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Not trying to be a Smarty or anything but remember to take of the pad holder/caliper mount. Nothing comes off till that does. It has been asked before. Careful of the bearings the front one will try to fall out.

If you don't have a grease injector ask me and I will describe how to pack a wheel bearing by hand. There is only one right way and most people don't do it correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
squatch said:
If you don't have a grease injector ask me and I will describe how to pack a wheel bearing by hand. There is only one right way and most people don't do it correctly.
Actually that was going to be my next question... you're a mind reader squatch! Would you mind???

Shooter: thanks again for the pictures my friend I'll go over and get one of those scales...
 
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