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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
took my 95 rodeo to the shop for an estimate on changing a cv. it was $378. so now im seriously considering changing them myself. i just want to find out what kind of trouble it is before i start on it. or should i go to the dark side and sas it?? (just kidding guys)
 

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took my 95 rodeo to the shop for an estimate on changing a cv
What is the reason the CV needs replacing? The labor charge is outrageous to have a shop do it. If it's just torn boots, those are easy enough to replace yourself. Most shops will not replace only the boots. If it is the whole shaft that needs to be replaced, you will need to drop the front diff to get the shaft out. It's not a really fun job :? It has been discussed here and over at the 4x4wire recently. You might search for some more info.

HIH,
Andre
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the cv is bad because the boot has about a 4 inch rip in it and all kinds of junk got in there and screwed it up. i'm not anxious to do this, but it will cost me 2 paychecks to have it done. everyone is short some $$ and i'm trying to find more affordable ways.
 

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If it isn't making noise when you're in 4wd, it should be salvageable, if you're a little mechanically inclined. Take a look at the very helpfull CV boot writeup here:

http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/CVboots/?

removing the boot allows you to completely disassemble the joint and clean it out. If it hasn't been run too long (i.e. make noise) with junk in there (i.e. make noise), it should be fine. It's a messy job, but it's a whole lot cheaper than new CV's.

Now, if it is making noise, then you probably need to replace it.

Good luck,

Andre
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it makes noise only when i turn in 4wd. i can drive straight with no noise! if all i need to do is take off a boot and clean it and get a new boot, im up for that. i am no master mechanic but i can figure things out quickly. i know this is completely different and fairly wimpy sounding, but i have rebuilt the entire rear assymbly and half the motor on my sister's motor scooter, so i have some knowledge of machines.
 

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Personally, I would separate the offending CV axle as the writeup describes. If things are in good shape, just put it back together with new grease and boots. If there is noticable wear, you can get a re-manufactred CV assembly for abouth $100 (returning core). You can just take the new axle apart, and install the new half shaft into your front end. This gets around that pesky dropping the differential thing :wink: .

For replacement boots, I highly recomend these:

http://www.independent4x.com/item.html?UCIDs=839915|938630&PRID=955395

And the band clamp tool is something I will never do with out again.

Andre
 

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2001 Rodeo with a recently installed 3" torsion bar crank and rear spring lift. I think I cranked the front too high. Many creaks and odd sounds appeared after doing the lift. I have since measured and lowered the front a bit but I tore the front right boot last week.
I am going to replace my passenger sides cv boots this weekend. I bought the mecatechs from independent4X.com and I bought the clamp tool. I too have never done this before and I am a bit nervous. My goal is 4 hours! The inner boot has been split for about a week and I have pretty much driven only to work and back since, work is 3 miles. There are no odd noises (save for the creaking sounds from all over the front)but I still plan to take clean and regrease the half shaft.
I plan to follow the previous mentioned writeup on 4x4wire to a tee, any other suggestions?
Wish me luck!
 

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Anyone who thinks this is difficult has not prepared properly. This was simple and I did it in about 2 hours.
The article from 4x4wire.com by Dan Houlton was very helpful!

Go isuzu
 

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Check on the price for reman axles at Advance Auto (partsamerica.com). Only $99 a side for 88-91 Trooper. My boots have been torn since previous owner, so I used split boots for now and am driving til they make noise and then I'll just replace the whole assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok i checked the advance auto, and its $148 for the right side. core charge of 45. now i need to find the time, and $150
 

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What is a band clamp tool? Can I just walk in Kragen etc and ask for a band clamp tool and they'll know what I'm talking about?

Also, what other special tools will I need for this work? Is there a generic hub nut tool as well?

Thanks!
 

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Have you tried a junk yard for the cv joint you need?

http://www.allhyundaiisuzuparts.com/

You'll probably need to know what type of cv joint you have.
I don't know what is on a Rodeo.
The Troopers had NTN or NSK and those letters were just above the large clamp on the cv boot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
wow what an old thread. odd that im coming into the same problem on the trooper now. the sas summer plans didnt work out (do great plans ever work out the first time?). when it goes im definately doing it.......right after a new clutch
 

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I did mine following the directions from this site. I used regular auto parts store boots and an afternoon to do both sides of my 1993 Rodeo. Cost about $70. It is not tough, if you have some mechanical skills and a few tools.
GEG
 

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I need to replace the whole half CV assembly, and that's causing me confusion. I posted a question at the general discussion forum.

Well, as for reviving an old post, that's the power of search I guess.
 

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I priced a rebuilt unit at the local parts house. $70 Get the unit and tear it apart at the inner joint. Use the outer half with yours. By doing it that way, you can use all rebuilt parts, sans the inner housing.
GEG
 

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bendorfold said:
Have you tried a junk yard for the cv joint you need?

http://www.allhyundaiisuzuparts.com/

You'll probably need to know what type of cv joint you have.
I don't know what is on a Rodeo.
The Troopers had NTN or NSK and those letters were just above the large clamp on the cv boot.
Hey thanks for the link, that place is a few hours from where I live, might have to take a trip out there next time I need some stuff!!!
 

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just throwing a bit of info into the pile:

shop around for boots!!! the prices vary dramatically...

I found some really decent boots that are surviving my steep cv angles well for under $10 each at a place called undercar-parts. They are a wholesaler that usually deals with local shops, but were willing to sell to a non-commercial customer with no problems... I'm sure similar shops exsist in probably every major city.. (this shop specalizes in stuff like boots, belts, hoses, ball joints, tie-rods etc)..

Dealers charge upwards of $30-50 per boot, so the difference from the low to the high price possability on a boot repalcement can be like from $40 to $200+.. definetally worth checking out the yellow pages and making some phone calls..

oh another thing... I've had problems with tight new boots not wanting to stay in their correct position... they kept "popping" off of the CV under hard corners.. probably as a result of the extra angle generated by the lift combined with the turn... I had to clamp the smaller side of the boot on the "other side" of the hump in the shaft (leaving a gap between the boots, where there wasn't a gap before) to get it to work right.. so far so good.
 
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