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Can I replace my own rear wheel bearings?

2K views 22 replies 8 participants last post by  dr_worm 
#1 ·
I run an '86 Trooper II, and when I took the rear axles to a shop to get the lock nuts removed (don't have a vise or enough ingenuity to get them off myself, apparently), they told me they would need to use a specialized tool to remove and replace the bearings. This sounds hauntingly like Something I Can't Do By Myself, which would be unfortunate, because they want to charge me a fair bit to do the bearings, and I'd like this project to be as DIY as possible (I hate admitting defeat).

I found my service manual the other day, and they list a few "special tools," but the "special tools" just look like a bearing and seal driving set that I could rent from O'Reilly for a 100%-refundable deposit. I like that price much better.

Any shadetree mechanics out there have any experience with removing and replacing bearings? I don't have a press, but I do have a rubber mallet and enough bravado to make me stupid :)

Cheers!
 
#2 ·
Up to you. I wouldn't do it.
 
#4 ·
Hmm... I'm becoming more inclined to just let the shop do it. Bummer :/ It needs to get done though, and fast, so I'm not too torn up about it. Maybe next time I need to replace brakes and bearings I'll be a bit more prepared ;) Keep the input coming, guys (and gals)!
 
#5 ·
dr_worm said:
Hmm... I'm becoming more inclined to just let the shop do it. Bummer :/ It needs to get done though, and fast, so I'm not too torn up about it. Maybe next time I need to replace brakes and bearings I'll be a bit more prepared ;) Keep the input coming, guys (and gals)!
WHOA , THOSE BEARING S ARNT THAT HARD TO REPLACE ON THOSE AXLES, TURN THE AXLE UPSIDE DOWN INA BIG VISE AND CLAMP THE LARGE RETAING NUT IN THE VISE , NOW TAKE A LONG BAR AND RUN CROSS WAYS THRU THE LUG NUTS AND TWIST THE AXLE WILL TURN LOOSE EVEN IF THE LOCK NUT IS STACKED , , SOPEM OF THOSE AXLE NUTS WERE STAKED ONLY INTO THE AXLE SHAFT AND OTHER HAD A LARGE LOCKING WASHER THAT HAD THE EDGE BENT OVER , IF IT HAS THE LOCK WASHER ON IT TAKE IT LOOSE AND THEN JUST TURN THE AXLE COUNTER CLOCK WISE WITH ABOUT A 4 FT BAR AND IT WILL COME RIGHT OFF, NOW STAND THE BACKING PLATE ON A COUPLE OF 4X4,S AND HIT THE END OF THE AXLE WITH A BIG DEAD BLOW HAMMER AND THE AXLE WILL COME RIGHT OUT IT ISNT PRESSED TOGETHER LIKE THE 88 AND LATER BEARINGS, BE SURE AND PACK THESE BEARINGS WITH A GOOD WHEEL BEARING GREASE , THESE ARE NOT PRE PACKED LIKE THE NEWER ONES REPLACE BOTH AXLE SEALS AND PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER SPIN THE BIG NUT BACK ON AND THEN CLAMP IT BACK IN THE VISE AND TIGHTEN IT AS TIGHT AS YOU CAN BY TURNING THE AXLE FLANGE , JUST KEEP TURNING THE AXLE UN TILL YOU CAN NO LONGER TIGHTEN IT , AS IT WILL BOTTOM OUT ON THE FLANGE SHOULDER , STACK THE NUT BACK INTO THE AXLE AND USE THE LOCK ING WASHER IF EQUIPPED , THESE AXLES ARE A PIECE OF CAKE COMPARED TO THE 88 AND LATER ONES, NO SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRE TO DO THESE.
 
#6 ·
If its the same kind of lock that I am thinking of, you can also use a Dremel and cut a relief in the retainers and then wack em off super easy with a hammer.
 
#7 ·
First, to Tad, it should be noted that I'm talking about completely replacing the seals and bearings, not reusing the old ones. If they get damaged when I take them off, so be it. I left my service manual at work (else I would scan in the instructions I'm referencing), but again, there doesn't look to be too much to installing new seals and bearings.

Second, to JLEMOND...don't know if you're being serious. I mean, that was along my same lines of thinking, but I don't have a vise, and some of your advice is slightly less than sound: namely, the part about twisting the nut back on "un till (sic) can no longer tighten it". There is a torque spec on the nut, and I'd like to be a *little* sure that I was *kind of* close to it, so I don't mind having the shop do that. Everything else I want to take care of myself. That was the point of my question. Save for removing the lock nut, is removing and trashing old bearings and seal and installing brand new ones an unachievable goal?
 
#8 ·
dr_worm said:
First, to Tad, it should be noted that I'm talking about completely replacing the seals and bearings, not reusing the old ones. If they get damaged when I take them off, so be it. I left my service manual at work (else I would scan in the instructions I'm referencing), but again, there doesn't look to be too much to installing new seals and bearings.

Second, to JLEMOND...don't know if you're being serious. I mean, that was along my same lines of thinking, but I don't have a vise, and some of your advice is slightly less than sound: namely, the part about twisting the nut back on "un till (sic) can no longer tighten it". There is a torque spec on the nut, and I'd like to be a *little* sure that I was *kind of* close to it, so I don't mind having the shop do that. Everything else I want to take care of myself. That was the point of my question. Save for removing the lock nut, is removing and trashing old bearings and seal and installing brand new ones an unachievable goal?


I WAS BEING DEAD SERIOUS ,BECAUSE THAT IS THE EXACTLY WAY THE FACTORY SHOP MANUAL SHOWS TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE BEARING ON THOSE AXLES, THIS IS NOT A RED NECK BACK YARD REPAIR, IN FACT KENT MOOR MAKES A TOOL THAT DOES EXACTLY THE SAME, IT GOES ACROSS THE LUG NUTS AND HAS A HOLE IN THE C ENTER THAT YOU CAN PUT A BREAKER BAR IN, WITH THE AXLE IN A VISE , AND THE NUT IF YOU CAN FIND A SOCKET OR WRENCH THAT IS 2. 5/16 IN DIA THAT WILL FIT DOWN OVER A 3 FT AXLE , WHICH I ACTUALLY DO HAVE , GOO D LUCK, WITH TIGHTINING THAT BIG NUT ACCURATELY SINCE AT THIS POINT THERE IS NO WAY TO HOLD THE AXLE, HENCE HOLD THE NUT IN THE VISE AND TIGHTEN TO 195 FT LB,S WITH A HALF IN DRIVE , , AT THE POINT THAT YOU CAN NO LONGER TIGHTEN THE NUT WITH T HE BREAKER BAR , IF YOU CAN FIGURE OUT A WAY TO GET A TORQUE WRENCH ON IT YOU WILL FIND THAT THE NUT IS TIGHT AGAINIST THE AXLE AND IT WILL BE RIGHT A T 200 FT LB,S .
 
#9 ·
Is your shift key broken? ;) I'm going back and forth on this, I'm going to see if I can get the shop to just loosen the nut for me and I'll take it from there. If only I had a vise...

Thanks again for all the help, guys!
 
#10 ·
A vise will cost less than a shop bill
 
#12 ·
Its almost always cheaper to buy or rent the tools than to pay someone else to do it. Thats how I got into it, got tired of paying for crappy repairs.
 
#13 ·
Live and learn, as they say. Maybe I was a bit hasty about not even trying to find a friend in town with a vise. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast, measure twice, cut once, and so on an so forth. One of these days ;)
 
#14 ·
You know I've built hitch mounts to put vises on for the work trucks at my company. Check with harbor freight .... It would actualy be kinda handy for out on the trails for some people to.
 
#15 ·
...I really, really like that idea. Because you never know when you're gonna need one, right? I'd be a little worried about the ground clearance I'd need (basically a whole axle, like two an a half feet) and the fact that the back end is up on jack stands, but it's still a sweet idea. There's a Harbor Freight right by my house, too.

I love this site :)
 
#16 ·
dr_worm said:
Is your shift key broken? ;) I'm going back and forth on this, I'm going to see if I can get the shop to just loosen the nut for me and I'll take it from there. If only I had a vise...

Thanks again for all the help, guys!
Two things regarding JLEMOND:

1. He's an absolute expert on these vehicles. Besides being a master mechanic on these machines, he traveled greatly training other Isuzu mechanics. He's dead serious when he gives advice/tutorials on procedures.

2. He has a visual problem which doesn't bother him much when he reads, however, he has difficulty inputting data thus he types in UPPERCASE so that he can see what he's doing a little better.

3. If you ever need parts, he's probably your best source. He'll also try to give you the best deal possible and has very speedy shipping.
 
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#17 ·
NOOBS!!!!!
 
#18 ·
I must have forgotten myself for a second. I know this board isn't like the rest of the Internet, and places like this are few and far between, so I want to apologize for being sarcastic earlier.

JLEMOND, I really didn't mean any disrespect. Knowing what I know now about you, I realize I should have respected you more from the get go. I didn't know then, though, so don't hold it against me ;)

I don't need to be making any enemies on this board, especially given how much I need y'all's help on a consistent basis. So thanks for all you do, and I'll behave myself in the future!
 
#19 ·
dr_worm said:
I must have forgotten myself for a second. I know this board isn't like the rest of the Internet, and places like this are few and far between, so I want to apologize for being sarcastic earlier.

JLEMOND, I really didn't mean any disrespect. Knowing what I know now about you, I realize I should have respected you more from the get go. I didn't know then, though, so don't hold it against me ;)

I don't need to be making any enemies on this board, especially given how much I need y'all's help on a consistent basis. So thanks for all you do, and I'll behave myself in the future!
NO PROB, AND YOU HAVENT MADE ANY ENEMIES , WE ARE ALL HERE TO HELP EACH OTHER AND EVERY ONE HELPS IN SO MANY WAYS, SOME A LITTLE AND SOME A LOT , BUT ALL HELP,S SO ANY TIME YOU NEED HELP ON ANYTHING ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS ASK, THERE IS A LOT OF EXPERIENCE ON THIS BOARD ,

AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT I CAN SPELL ,BUT THESE EYS ARE CONSTANTLY PLAYING TRICKS ON ME SO WHEN YOU SEE MY MESSAGES AND THE LETTER,S ARE REVERSEVED
AND I SOMETIMES MISS THE MISTAKES ,MAKES ME SO DANG MAD HAVING TO GO BACK AND FORTH RETYPING 2-3 TIMES , JUST SO I CAN MAKE HEADS OR TAILS OF IT ,
ANY WYA NO HARM DONE AND EVERY ONE IS STILL FRIENDS JERRY
 
#20 ·
shooter said:
dr_worm said:
Is your shift key broken? ;) I'm going back and forth on this, I'm going to see if I can get the shop to just loosen the nut for me and I'll take it from there. If only I had a vise...

Thanks again for all the help, guys!
Two things regarding JLEMOND:

1. He's an absolute expert on these vehicles. Besides being a master mechanic on these machines, he traveled greatly training other Isuzu mechanics. He's dead serious when he gives advice/tutorials on procedures.

2. He has a visual problem which doesn't bother him much when he reads, however, he has difficulty inputting data thus he types in UPPERCASE so that he can see what he's doing a little better.

3. If you ever need parts, he's probably your best source. He'll also try to give you the best deal possible and has very speedy shipping.
Let me add a 4th - He is a class act too.
 
#21 ·
So.

I tried whaling on the back of the axle with a deadblow hammer (yes, the backplate was well supported), and I could not bang the axle out of the bearing.

I have another idea: I was probably not generating a whole lot of force, given that the hammer was deadblow and I haven't lifted weights in quite some time. *IF*, however, I were able to get something to place on top of the back of the axle for protection and to provide a surface on which to apply pressure (square of plywood) while it was supported (couple of 2x4's) and get something to lean against (a tire with a wheel in it), I could probably generate enough force (with the help of a friend or two) to press the axle out of the bearing.

So just to draw you a mental picture, from the top down, it goes:

Me and a friend (or two)
A tire with a wheel in it (to provide some extra weight and something semi-stable to lean on)
An 8" square of plywood (to cover the hole in the wheel and protect the axle)
The axle
The backing plate/brake shoes
Some 2x4's
The ground (probably actually some more plywood, so I don't scuff up the flange bolts)

Sounds good, right? No, it doesn't but it sounds like it'll work.

Or maybe I'm wrong.
 
#22 ·
You might just haul off and hit the end of the axle with a nice dence piece of oak while it's supported in the blocking. wood won't damage the splines and you'll get to let out some aggresion lol...
 
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