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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my rodeo burns oil faster than rims stolen at a puff daddy concert. I mean a qaurt every 500 miles 1000 if im lucky and that's with gtx 5-30. Now I'm 17 so im not at low rpm's all the time. I also do a lot of highway driving. But anyways I've been thinking about getting rotella but it's not cheap. Any suggestions or other diesel oil that is good. I was talking with brad and he uses 30wt doesn't know what brand tho (he gets it from work). Would rotella 30wt be good? I want something to let the engain run cleaner and smoother but as does everyone. Ideas???
 

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Sorry I guess it's an ursa brand. A lot like the dello 400 stuff.. 15-40 /10-30/ 30wt stuff.. Havoline is another over the counter preference for me.. I'd say best oil for a budget... You could try a quart of power punch...
Come on guys give some good advise/suggestions like best stuff and second best oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey so brad is what you use 10-30. Or just 30wt i don't understand this stuff. Lol
 

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I'm doing the switch to Rotella T6 5W40 in my VX. I burn loads of oil also, about the same as you. I cannot say for sure, but it seems like it might be burning oil a tad slower than before, but it might just be wishful thinking on my part. I am still doing a blend of oil right now, and after my next oil change I will be on Rotella T6 5W40 completely. But, I have my doubts as to if it will make a difference. I have never found ANYTHING to make me stop burning oil. Seafoam, change PCV every oil change, synthetic oil, blah blah blah, nothing works for me. This new experiment will be my last before I give up all hope.

Bart
 

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running thicker oil helps a little, but high rpms really burns up the oil. All the options you have are basically going to take time. The only quick and real fix is a rebuild with new pistons. Just drive less aggressive, run thicker oil(diesel oil) and you should burn less, and hopefully in the long run it will help you burn even less.
 

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Med!c said:
running thicker oil helps a little, but high rpms really burns up the oil. All the options you have are basically going to take time. The only quick and real fix is a rebuild with new pistons. Just drive less aggressive, run thicker oil(diesel oil) and you should burn less, and hopefully in the long run it will help you burn even less.
Right, that's what I am going for. And you are right, hwy RPMs especially up hills and mountains really cooks the oil....

Bart
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
New pistons??? I thought it was the ring with the burning oil. And what pistons would you get? Also because it burns the oil me and brad were talking about ways to clean the engine so she runs smoother , valves ect. What do you guys suggest. With gas going up im trying to get more mpg's outta the engine. 14's just making me brokee!!
 

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As the cylinders wear the top of the bore opposite the piston pin wears more than the rest of the cylinder so the net effect is the cylinder is bigger at the top than the bottom and sort of oval shaped at the top. Putting in new pistons does not solve this problem, the piston is round the cylinder is not. Same goes for new piston rings they fit ok at the bottom of the bore but are too loose at the top and can't seal the oval shaped bore. The real solution is to bore the cylinder enough to get it back round and the same diameter top and bottom. This requires oversize pistons and rings to be fitted.
 

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I just dont get the fact that mine burns it so bad. With only 53k on it now 32 when I brought it back to life. It can't nesisarily be gummed up rings.. I do believe the PVC acts like a vacuum and sucks it into the intake quit a bit. Thus the big goo factor.. But could that be capable of sucking up that much oil.. I can go 3-4 days of freeway driving 60-65.. But once I'm up over 70 it increases cunsumption. In a round trip of 75 miles each way it will go through at least half a quart. My tac is right around 2800... Is it all because the pistons need more relief's drilled in them ???
 

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I'm with ya, Brad. I bought my VX when it only had 26,000 miles on the clock and it has ALWAYS burned oil since day 1. IMO, it has got to be a defect. I honestly do not think it can be "fixed". I think it can be reduced by using heavy oil, and I hope that my experiment with the Rotella 5W40 yeilds better results than when I was using Mobile-1 5W30 synthetic, but I have a feeling the results will be the same, with only a minor drop in oil consumption. I personally feel that 99.99% of all the engine failures in late model Troopers and VXes are DIRECTLY related to this oil burning defect. It is for this reason, not matter how much I would like to, I will never buy another Zu with a 3.5 unless it is a late production Axiom.

Bart
 

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GoodyMOBB said:
Has anyone tried low ash diesel oil? If you're burning that much won't it clog up ypur catalytic converters? Maybe switching to a low ash diesel oil like mobile 1 esp would help? Just throwing it out there...
I've never had a problem with a clogged cat, meaning I have never had any codes show up or had any weird problems related to a clogged cat. My VX has 111,000 miles now. I do however wonder if I should install a new cat anyhow, just to see if it runs better and consumes less fuel. Burning oil will definitely clog your EGR over time as it fills will carbon deposits. I bet chaning my O2 sensors could help also....hmmmm.

I know I am burning oil all the time because I can smell it in the exhaust and I can see all the carbon on my garage floor under the tailpipe where it spits out every time I start up.

Bart
 

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I really wonder if it would be worth tearing down the engine and drilling another set of holes (oil galleys) into the pistons. They say that's the cure for the 3.5's. So the 3.2's should ultimately should be the same fix. It's just a big job !! But hey if it works I'd be happy...
 

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Mine burned like crazy, and then I switched to a High Mileage Pennzoil 5w-30, and Bosch oil filter. I now burn a quart maybe once every 1750mi. I would expect that after 183,000 miles.
 

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bradzuzu said:
I really wonder if it would be worth tearing down the engine and drilling another set of holes (oil galleys) into the pistons. They say that's the cure for the 3.5's. So the 3.2's should ultimately should be the same fix. It's just a big job !! But hey if it works I'd be happy...
I can't talk for the 3.2 guys as I really didn't know they were experiencing the same problems. HOWEVER, I can tell you from experience on my 3.5............it was worth the trouble! Mine was burning/using a quart every 800 miles and I have always used Rotella. I rebuilt it due to a burnt valve. I drilled the extra holes and reassembled. I had just made a post a couple weeks ago about it. 97xx miles, 2 oil changes, ZERO oil usage!
 

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Boy !!! That would be a lot of work but it would ease my mind when I hit the road on a trip somewhere... I've read about your results Sassee !! I think your absolutely right !!! Do you think the PVC valve pulls in quite a bit of oil ??? Is yours still setup factory ?? I guess if I did a tear down I would get everything balanced and see if I couldn't get even more life out of it.. Man that sucks...if only I did this before I built the dam thing... I had the motor on the floor...
 

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Mines totally stock. I did use a 2001 model engine (My slx is a 98) the only thing I had to modify was i had to drill and tap a hole in the block for the knock sensor. The 98 ECM was hard-wired for the sensor as opposed to the 2001 using ion sensing. If the sensor wasn't in and hooked-up, it would not run. Drilling and tapping the block was not an issue though. I did use all OEM Isuzu parts in the rebuild. A little more expensive but worth it in my opinion. My daughter is wanting a truck but she wants to keep her SLX too!!! I told her it don't work like that. If I get her a truck, the SLX becomes one of MY toys! (that's why I went thru the time and effort because I know the SLX ain't leaving my ownership because that 3.5 is a hoss!)

And NO................If you are going thru a lot of oil, it ain't the PVC. you've got oil control problems and it could very well be clogged passages in the pistons.

Ernie
 

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bradzuzu said:
Boy !!! That would be a lot of work but it would ease my mind when I hit the road on a trip somewhere... I've read about your results Sassee !! I think your absolutely right !!! Do you think the PVC valve pulls in quite a bit of oil ??? Is yours still setup factory ?? I guess if I did a tear down I would get everything balanced and see if I couldn't get even more life out of it.. Man that sucks...if only I did this before I built the dam thing... I had the motor on the floor...
I'm thinking of putting one of those oil separator thingys on my PCV line, now that the PCV is actually working...
 
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