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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
don't have any pics yet, camera is at work...

about 50% there. I drilled some holes in the tube bumpers such that I could run 2 5/16 x 5 inch eye-bolts through them. Two bits later (one of which broke and is new a permanent resident within the bumper), bolts are installed in the bumper.



there is approximately a 10-12 inch difference in height between the bumper/eye-bolt and the hood. so, i needed to make cable guides that can guide the cable as it passes over the quarter-panel towards the roof mounting location. for this, i installed two 1/4inch eye-bolts approx. 3 inches above the turn signals.

also, the cable wont be passing in a straight line from the bumper, through the guide, and to the roof-mount: the cable will be angled approx. 15-degrees towards the roof center (will be more clear with the pics...). so, i needed to consider how the cable would interact with the cable guide. with tension applied to the cable, and even more so when branches are passing over them, I didn't want the bolt to shift/bend the surrounding metal of the body. using rubber grommets (a little more flexible than straight rubber gaskets or washers), an a washer, I made bushings that will evenly distribute pressure around the cable-guides. i think this will lessen the amount if interaction between the guides and body....we shall see.

pics to follow! still haven't figured out the best option for roof-mounts/ anchor points. i either need to re-secure the rails of my roof-rack with sturdier bolts, re-install the roof basket, and secure the cable to this.

or, I was thinking of mounting these on the roof: do you think these will be able to handle the tension from the cable without ripping free from the roof??

http://images.lowes.com/product/convert ... 0049xl.jpg
 

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Replace the front bolt for the roof rails with another eyebolt. Probably be the strongest point up there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
decided to go the roof-rack route.

I replaced the bolts that hold the rails to the roof 1/4 inch bolt in the front, and the center and back are 5/16 eyebolts: these i can use as anchoring points for the cable, or for other tie-down points.

i will definitely anchor the cable to the roof basket once reinstalled: think it will give a more functional angle to the cable when finished, even if it is only a few degrees
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
eye bolts are towards the back, not the front ;)
 

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Two_squirrels said:
eye bolts are towards the back, not the front ;)
Isn't that going to make the cable touch your roof? I personally wouldn't want my roof line where the *windshield* mounts used a contact/stress point for a cable angling over it. Unless that bolt sticks up REALLY high, that's what I picture in my head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
if i don't end up attaching the cable to the roof basket, yes I will need to set up another cable guide to lift it off the roof.
 

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Two_squirrels said:
if i don't end up attaching the cable to the roof basket, yes I will need to set up another cable guide to lift it off the roof.
save yourself some hassle bro. just get the basket then do the branch cables. that way you don't end up doing triple the amount of work that you don't need to or potentially damaging your paint/roof/window/etc. +1 for your enthusiasm and def post pics once it's rockin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
fin! camera is charging now, pics to come later tonight.

I finished reinforcing the roof-rack rails: replaced the self-tapping screws with 5/16 bolts (three deep each side), and added a few washers and a rubber gasket, plus some silicone-seal under the gasket. hopefully this stops any leaking that I had in the past. So much more sturdy now. I have no idea why the previous owner thought 3 self tapping screws would be sufficient, he is lucky he never hauled anything over 20lbs up there...

I decided to mount some eye bolts on the inside of the roof basket: the walls of the basket (stock Kia) were surprisingly stronger than I thought, kind of a PITA to drill through. drilled some guide holes through the front of the basket to get the angles that I wanted from the cable.

i also modded the eye/eye turnbuckles (see link): used a dremmel to cut the eyes, just wide enough to slip the cable in on one side, and the eye-bolt on the other. eye/hook buckles : didn't like the idea of the size of the opening that would result from using eye/hook buckles. now, its nice and snug.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_22225-1277-MP21 ... facetInfo=
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·














 

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Not bad man!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks. angle is quite what I wanted, but I guess that is as good as it gets with the angles of the body.
 

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Didn't turn out too bad IMO. You could have worked the angle a bit if you started at the fender but I think it works.
 

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personally i think the guide on the fender might screw you later on.

but looks good nonetheless.
 

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eh without a high enough part on the bumper to mount off of I don't see another option, hopefully it works.
 

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looks good, i need to get busy on mine
 

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RamAirZ said:
eh without a high enough part on the bumper to mount off of I don't see another option, hopefully it works.
I agree.

I just hope it doesn't end up counter productive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
for some reason I predicted more of a slope, and that the guide would right on the top of the guide. it actually runs (too) close to the body. May need to try to find a longer eye-bolt for the bumper, maybe run a few rubber spacers. an extra inch would get the cable off the body, make more of a straight line to the roof which = better tension.

now, I am going to go drive through the neighbors hedge row to see if they work!
 

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Now see, I had been thinking 1"-2" tube when these came up before... This cable makes much more sense! I like em.

~psguardian
 

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Pretty slick. I like that idea a lot.
 
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