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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got some binding brakes and a brake light on.??? The pads don't seem that low and with the wheel off it's hard to even turn the rotor. Is this my brake booster acting up or are my calipers dirty? Has anyone had this problem? I figure I'm getting about 14 miles a gallon right now :roll: I'm hoping it's. Just the brakes and I can correct it. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh yeah thought I should mention I bled each brake and it didn't seem to help. Also the e brake cable isn't hooked up either.???
 

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If this is your 1990 Trooper and the problem is on the rear brakes it is a common problem. The cable gets dirty inside and the caliper doesn't have enough spring to return to the rest position. Most of the time just taking the cables off and work some lubricant thru them will cure the problem. The way I do it is remove the cable and roll the rubber boot back on the caliper end (if it is still intact most aren't) then clamp a piece of 5/8" hose about 6" long to the end of the cable and hang it vertical, fill the hose with light oil or penetrating oil and leave over night, should be dripping out the other end by morning. If the rubber boot is bad cut it all off except a small section that is around the cable use a 2" piece of 5/8" heat shrink tubing and shrink it over the housing and the small section you left on the cable. This will usually last a couple of years. When this fails I have found a way to add a heavy return spring on the caliper and if needed I can post picture I THINK (was in photo bucket). found it DAVE

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Dave. Nice details! Ill have to check that out. I'm not sure if the rear is binding. The front is for sure. Pretty bad too. Any experience with this on yours? You have any pics of your rig it sounds nice :) I'd love to see it. I love these first Gen troopers!
 

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If it is all of the brakes or at least the front it could be the caliper pistons have some rust or corrosion on them making them stay applied. I have never experienced a malfunction at the master cylinder that caused the brakes to stick usually a failure there is a loss of pedal pressure (O SH#^%). Have you tried breaking the line at the master cyld. and releasing any trapped pressure? My guess would be caliper problems Rock Auto usually has good deals on calipers. DAVE

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah! I love that trooper. Looks really nice! I haven't tried breaking the line at the cylinder. Maybe a good idea? Thanks for the advice. Love your troop man! Trade ya :lol:
 

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Dragging front brakes is EXTREMELY common on a trooper. You can do all kinds of things that will help for a while but it seems to always come back. In the end, the best fix you can do is the big brake swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cool thanks. What's the best way to fix it for no w? Clean the calipers? I need some wheels that'll turn :)
 

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big brake swap is only for the front though, right.
btw that is a bada$$ pic of that trooper plowing through that stream. didn't get swamped did it?
 

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foytiX said:
big brake swap is only for the front though, right.
btw that is a bada$$ pic of that trooper plowing through that stream. didn't get swamped did it?
Yeah but the fronts are the only ones that seem to have a chronic dragging problem. Maintenance and repair seems to be sufficient for the rears. And I agree, the stream pic is awesome.
 

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funny I've had just as much if not more problems with my rears, just yesterday we put on reman calipers, rotors and pads.... the calipers were $57 after the core charge, didn't think that was too bad. I think I could swap the rear brakes off of my 94 parts trooper but everything would have to rotate about 90 degrees which would put my caliper right on top......would this be less effective as opposed to where they are now?
 

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Have you check the wheel bearings? Are you saying when you jack up the front and manually spin the wheels, they are difficult to spin?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah, I checked the bearings. I opened the caliper and the spun fine. As soon as I step on the brakes its hard to turn again. Its only the wheel closest the the m/c. The rear works great. The other front is a little stiff but nothing like the driver side. I don't know if this makes sense but it seems to get worse as I accelerate.?? Could be my imagination.
 

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The caliper might also be binding on the slide pins. If the pins are in the wrong position, that might cause it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks Bob. I think ill pull the calipers tonight and see what it looks like in there.
 

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yeah, check the pins and make sure the piston is fully retracting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks shooter! In the case that the piston isn't retracting how do I get it moving?
 

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With the pads removed, remove the cap of the master cylinder reservoir. Different ways to do it. I take a small sheet of metal, piece of wood, etc and affix a c-clamp to the piston and slowly turn the piston; like you would when replacing pads. Make sure you go slow so that you don't spew fluid out of the master cylinder. The piston should retract nice and smoothly. If not, you probably have a leak, corrosion, etc which is causing the piston to act abnormally. When you pull the pads, inspect them for contaminants.
 

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Didn't see where your location is but if you live in an area where the humidity is high or you get a lot of moisture good chance that both the guide pin and the caliper piston have some issues of rust and corrosion. The rubber seal on the piston deteriorates after time allowing moisture to collect on the piston same with the guide pin it has a corrugated rubber sleeve that keeps the pin clean. The pin can be cleaned but I would recommend the calipers just be replaced. Another thing is check the guide pin for straightness I had one that got bent some how and it was causing the brake to drag (on the front). My biggest issue with brakes dragging is on the rear and it always is some thing involving the E Brake. BTW the Trooper crossing the creek didn't get swamped but it did destroy the smog pump.DAVE
 

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outofrshell said:
Didn't see where your location is but if you live in an area where the humidity is high or you get a lot of moisture good chance that both the guide pin and the caliper piston have some issues of rust and corrosion. The rubber seal on the piston deteriorates after time allowing moisture to collect on the piston same with the guide pin it has a corrugated rubber sleeve that keeps the pin clean. The pin can be cleaned but I would recommend the calipers just be replaced. Another thing is check the guide pin for straightness I had one that got bent some how and it was causing the brake to drag (on the front). My biggest issue with brakes dragging is on the rear and it always is some thing involving the E Brake. BTW the Trooper crossing the creek didn't get swamped but it did destroy the smog pump.DAVE
I have the issue with the e-brake in the rear. If I use it, I have to remember to reach behind the wheel and pull back the lever before I start driving it. What I typically do though...is just not use the hand brake, and put it in 1st when I park. I like the idea of the helper spring though, may have to give that a try.
 
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