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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay so I've painstakingly read literally dozens of threads on here and searched endlessly through members rides trying to find info on someone who has achieved something similar to what I'm shooting for, and I figured I'd bite the bullet and ask after finding so many different solutions.

To outline my reasons for it, I get fairly paranoid about damaging the undercarriage and low-mounted components when I'm hitting the trails, so I'd call it a bit of a "preventative mod." The other reason is my mate that I drive with has a lifted HiLux and my Fronty just looks so freaking small compared to it! I want to uphold our honour.

Anyway I'm looking at getting raised Jackaroo (trooper) HD king springs, which are about 35mm+ over standard jackaroo height. This should give- if my calculations are correct- just over 3 inches of lift in the rear. I'll crank the torsion bars 2.5-3inches to match. This will be just about the extent of the suspension work as there are already uprated shocks in there.

I'm also looking at a 2inch body lift. This will allow me to fit some decent mud terrain tyres maybe 31 or 32 if I can afford it. As far as I can tell, the brake lines and steering do not need to be extended for only a 2in lift, please correct if I am wrong.

If everything I've worked out seems correct my CV 's shouldn't be at TOO ridiculous of an angle, and my manual hubs should help prevent wear to the boots anyway, correct? Biggest hurdle I can see is remounting my ARB bullbar, which I have spoken to a welder about and he is happy to do for me.

TL;DR, 3in suspension lift, 2in body lift, already have freewheeling hubs and uprated shocks, what problems an I expect to run into? Sorry about the wall of text but I really want to get this right the first time so if you see any holes in this logic please tell me!

Cheers from the Land of Oz,
Braedon.
 

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With 5" of lift you could easily run a 33" tire. It would help fill in the fender gap.

I'll make a suggestion, the 3" body lift is more common because the rear bumper slides on top of the frame rails. The 2" will require a few more modifications but nothing too hard.

Your plan sounds good man, let me know if I can help you with the ARB. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Would I be looking at 5inches of lift with the setup I've got outlined? I'm amazed at how cheap this could work out to be if it all goes to plan, I love it!

I was leaning towards the 2inch because I was hoping I wouldn't need to extend the steering arm thing or modify my shifters. It's a 5spd manual 4WD and 3 inches higher seems to be pushing the limits of some bits of plastic and a few bolts to me. In your opinion would it work out more practical to have 3inches compared to 2? I'd be worried about keeping the cost down regarding remounting the bar, steering arm, shifters, fuel lines/brake lines and such things. You've been a great help to bounce ideas off of and glean inspiration off yorus already!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oh and is it possible to replace the springs with the use of a spring compressor? All the threads I've read here talk about disconnecting the axle and I've never had t do that before :?
 

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I'm here to help. :wink:

If it were me I would do the 3", it's not going to hurt anything. The only thing you will have to modify is the steering shaft and your shifters. Which is no big deal. The steering shaft will need a 1" extension welded in if you decide to go with the 3". I'm not familiar with the 2".

Your brake lines and fuel lines will all reach perfectly.

I did my body lift in 5 hours start to finish, so that should tell you how easy it is. The kit from indy4x4 comes with all the bolts you'll need, not sure about the extensions, I had to make mine. But once again it was too easy.
 

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You'll have to modify the shifters and the steering with a 2" body lift.

Joe
 

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Yes I used coil compressors, but it's easier just to drop the axle because the springs will fall out. Just makes it easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay well it might be worth looking seriously into the 3inch kit then, especially if I'd have to modify those bits anyway, bearing in mind that this is my daily driver too. The steering shaft seems easily accessible so does it just pull out reasonably easily? Final one regarding that is what insert did you use to extend it?

Shifters will just need extra metal welded on, correct?

And just a 3in suspension lift will let my CV's remain in a serviceable range without dangerously risking them?
 

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You can use the same material for the shifters and steering. I think we used steel on mine.

Your CV's are going to have strain on them, but that's just the way it is. When you crank your t-bars it makes the angle steep, that's when manual hubs come into play, which you already have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Great, I guess it's time to start looking into something a similar diameter as the steering shaft. What about a driveshaft from a small FWD car? At least it'd be straight and it'd be cheap from a wreckers. Is it as simple as cutting the shaft and just rewelding a piece an inch or so long back in? The shifters seem like the easier one to do, that diameter metal is easy enough to find.

I want this to be a reliable build and still be able to beat it pretty heavily offroad, which is why I was concerned about the integrity of the 3in lift blocks.

At least there don't appear to be any glaring problems with this build that you guys have picked out. I'll be getting some driving lights this week, then once I get my alternator back in I'll be ordering the springs so hopefully looking at a 2-3 week timeframe for the suspension lift.
 

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Bigpoppax2 has some pics of his steering shaft when he welded it. Your welder will know what to do.

The body lift blocks are strong, you're not going to break em. There made to withstand alot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay that's reassuring, good to see the amount of people on here that have them too. I've seen Bansil's thread here http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic ... +extension

but it's just not clear enough for me to properly understand. Bigpoppa if you could link to your thread that'd be great too I can't find it in search.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks mate that's a very helpful one. I'm probably buying the blocks off Yaki who is on fronteraownersgroup.co.uk (sorry if it's a sin to two-time the forums haha) because he said he's happy to ship to Australia.

I just remembered my final problem I encountered while making up my plans on the mental drawing board. What did you guys do to solve the radiator fan being a whole 3 inches lower compared to the radiator? Are thermos the way to go, and if so what did you do with the fan pulley coming from the motor?
 

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The radiator stays in the stock location, in other words let it come up with the body.

No modifications necessary.
 
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