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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think the title sums things up well. What would you do?

I am in the process of installing the Pace Setter header, but between the header and the heater pipe (see pic - coming soon) I have barely 1/4" clearance [CORRECTION: no clearance after bolting up the header]. With the standard exhaust manifold there was not much more clearance, perhaps 1/2". I am a little worried about the heat from the header melting that hose. I think I have the following options:

1. Run it and hope that there is enough room for the heat to dissipate and not melt the hose. - Politics aside, I don't like relying on "hope."

2. Try to mount up some sort of heat shield. - I think the clearance is too tight for a heat shield to be effective.

3. Space the header outboard from the head. I have seen some exhaust manifold gaskets (by remex or something like that) that look to be about 1/4" thick. - The problem with this fix is that it will move the header almost into the e-brake pivot on the frame. (see pic - also coming soon).

4. Bend the heater pipe to move the hose and hose clamp about 1/4 to 3/8 " closer to the block. - I like this plan the best, but am little worried about kinking or breaking that heater pipe.

So, has anyone else had this problem with the Pace Setters?

If I break or kink that heater pipe, how hard is it to replace? It looks like at a minimum the driver's side motor mount needs to come off to do this. Are these pipes even available? Maybe from Jerry?

At this stage, I think this is a trial fitment anyway, because the header mounting flange is about 1.5 mm out of plane across the mounting surface. I would like to have that machine flat to a little tighter tolerance.

It has been a rough weekend in the garage. I got the new cam installed and timed without needing to pull the radiator or lower timing cover...right up to the point that I dropped the 10 mm socket down into the lower timing cover. Some of you may have heard me cursing on the east coast. I hate pulling the radiator, but at least I was able to confirm that the timing marks on the crankshaft timing gear and harmonic balancer are in sync. Also, found out that I will need to modify two of my york compressor mounts and get a longer belt for that to work with the header. :roll:

Pictures:

Heater pipe to header clearance. It is the spacing between the the back side of the hose and the the header pipe that concerns me...no way to get a pic of that.


Brake pivot to header clearance. Any closer and I think the chance of header hitting that pivot is too high. There is about 1/8" clearance now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hmm. I guess my first post wasn't quite to the point enough:

1. Where can I get a new "heater pipe"? (this is the pipe that comes out of the block and goes to the lower rad mount and the heater. it can be seen in the bottom left of the top pic in my post above.)

2. How do I remove and install this pipe? I don't see anything about this in the FSM.

Thanks.
 

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theres two 12mm bolts holding it to the block under the manifold. Undo those and work it out of the block. Replace the o-ring and install in the reverse order. It shouldn't break unless it is corroded internally. If thats the case breaking it now will save you a headache later down the line when it blows in the most in opportune time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
caveman said:
theres two 12mm bolts holding it to the block under the manifold. Undo those and work it out of the block. Replace the o-ring and install in the reverse order. It shouldn't break unless it is corroded internally. If thats the case breaking it now will save you a headache later down the line when it blows in the most in opportune time.
Thanks. I guess I never saw the clamp / flange holding it in place.

Anyone know where to get one of these? I found the part numbers on myisuzuparts.com what do I do now?
 

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Best parts sources are JLEMOND (user Jerry Lemond here on the panet) or a local j-yard.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks, Mark.

Looking at your pictures I see two things:

1. The pipe only seems to be held on by one bolt that must be hidden in your picture. Is it just that bolt that and the o-ring that keep the sealed to the block or is the pipe a "press" fit like the freeze plugs? I am not wrapping my head around the mounting removal of this thing...feeling very dense...

2. What cylinder head is that? No markings on the casting...
 

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The head is a Clearwater, I believe. It came installed on the rebuilt long block I got from hiperformer.com -service was good, been on for about 15k with no real issues.
 
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