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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys
My truck is pulling me to right as if front passenger side brake is locking up by itsel when I drive for more than 30min. I can hear something grinding on that side but I'm not sure. Brakes are serviced month ago w/ new parts. Can this be caused by bad inner or outer bearings?
 

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I am having the same problem, well it kind of sounds like it. If I drive along the highway for say about 50kms and have to come to a stop. As soon as I start again, and if I turn left I get a grinding sound. I was told it was the wheel bearings so I went and bought new ones for the front, but unfortunitly I haven't had a chance to install them.
 

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I would pull the front wheels and look at the bearings on both sides, both inner and outer.

Sometimes when bearings are at fault, they cause excess heat build up. You can feel the outer part of a wheel, then go to the other side and do the same. Compare the difference in how hot it feels on your hand. Be careful. If things are really bad, your hand can get stung from the heat build up.

Not saying this test will prove useful in your case. It might help you locate the faulty side; then again, it might not.

Again, I would pull the wheels and start looking, because whatever it is, it could cause an accident at some time in the future, be it a brake or bearing issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well its pulling me to the right so i'm assuming passenger side...It only does it when i've been driving for awhile. Bah my truck has become a money pit :p
 

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If I remember right that heat could cook the brake caliper too...
Not my business but your money pit could become even deeper if you delay to much...
 

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V2 said:
If I remember right that heat could cook the brake caliper too...
Not my business but your money pit could become even deeper if you delay to much...
Damn, I better get off of my butt and get this stuff done. I am waiting for all my parts to come so I can do everything at once.
The ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rods, sway bar bushings, linkage bushings, suspension, cv boots, manual hubs and the list goes on. I have a 4 day weekend next week so hopefully I can get a few things done. I may just wait til I have everything and since I will have the front end torn apart, might as well do it all then. Should be interesting. Now only if I had an Isuzu buddy to give me a hand.... :cry:
 

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Before you get too excited, remove your auto hub and see if the grinding goes away. If those auto hubs aren't clean, they can partially engage which creates a grinding noise. I guess manual hubs could have the same problem if they were packed with grease or grime.

Pulling is most likely to be a stuck brake caliper. The slide pins have a tendency to rust or just dry out. When that happens it is almost like the piston in the caliper is stuck out (which can also happen). Jack up that corner and spin the wheel. You should get at least half a turn after you let go. If there is significant resistance, you have a stuck brake. Unless the bearing was really really bad (and grinding and probably seizing up) it probably won't drag enough to be noticable.

That said, it won't hurt to repack the bearings. That is a good time to replace the front rotors if they are worn past their usable service life. Dave Chang did a good article on it at:

http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/56

-Tad
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I worked on the truck yesterday found out it was the bearings and also found out lower cv boot is torn and all the grease was pouring out of it...I figure to just replace cv while at it and found out I pretty much have to drop entire front end to replace it...now i have a bald spot on my head where I pulled my hair out...
 

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Celestine said:
I worked on the truck yesterday found out it was the bearings and also found out lower cv boot is torn and all the grease was pouring out of it...I figure to just replace cv while at it and found out I pretty much have to drop entire front end to replace it...now i have a bald spot on my head where I pulled my hair out...
Not necessarily. It 'is' possible to remove the knuckle and then 'fish' the axle from between the Arms without dropping the whole diff assembly. It makes the job mucho easier to take the tension off the t-bar on the side you are pulling so you can force the LCA down. The pass side is easier since it is a short shaft. If the hardware is in relatively good condition, it is about a 4-hour job.

There are other steps included, but the basics are this off the top of my head:

1. Jack up truck onto stable jack stands; do not use the LCA or diff tubes as a jackstand point.

2. Remove hub and interior parts.

3. Remove brake caliper

4. Remove lower shock joint.

5. Remove tension from torsion bar

6. Pop ball joint on idler arm/knuckle

7. Pop upper ball joint

8. Disassemble lower ball joint

9. At this point, you 'should' be able to slide the entire knuckle off of the axle shaft.

10. Remove 2 diff bolts. You 'might' have to at least loosen the opposite side to create some play in the diff assembly while trying to remove the axle shaft.

11. Forcing down the LCA, fish the axle shaft and diff-plate through the LCA/Frame opening. Cuss frequently, take frequent breaks, drink lotsa beer. Keep trying......it will come out.

12. Remove the 2 circlips in order paying attention to the order of re-assembly regarding the oil seal (outer) and the axle bearing (inner). Optimal situation is to replace the circlips and oil seal with new. Be very careful during reassembly to not damage the oil seal.

As always, reassembly is the opposite of disassembly. Be mindful of torque requirements. Getting the proper torsion reset can be a challenge.

There is some speculation as to whether it is possible to fish the axles out in this manner, and then reassemble with the larger drop-diff brackets that some have fabbed and/or the ones that Darlington Off-road is selling.

In any case, good luck.

Cheers,
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks so much all the info guys. I'll be working on it this weekend and hopefully nothing else goes wrong. Hey Don that beer idea sounds good :wink:
 
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