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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I decided to make a dedicated thread for my 4L30E to MUA5 swap. I will try and make a step by step guide ( I know that there is already a thread on how to maybe I will cover things he didnt or vice versa)

The thread on how I got to this point is here:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=59604

My general build thread is here:
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=51622

So far I have the actual 5 speed with clutch fork, shifter, front driveshaft and part of the other vehicles wiring harness. Total cost $135!

Things I need from the junkyard:
Clutch pedal
Rear drive shaft
Transfercase shifter and shifter boots

Things I will be purchasing new:
Clutch master and slave cylinders
Hard line for the clutch fluid
New fly wheel and Exedy clutch kit
Rear main engine seal and front transmission seal
All new synthetic fluids

I know I am probably forgetting somethings but I am off to a good start now. If you see something that I will be needing that is not on the list please let me know! It looks like I have a block off plate for the master cylinder so that looks good.
Does anyone know how the clutch pedal attaches to the floor on these? Are they welded or are they bolted? I hope bolted, would make my life easier.

Will post pics later of what I have so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Thanks to mrfipp a clutch master cylinder is on its way! Thanks again! The trans I got had the slave still attached and it looks to be in good shape still so I will just use those for now. I know I need to snap some pics and make this thread less lame, hopefully it will turn out nice in the end and be helpful to anyone who needs to walk down this road in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Snapped a couple of pics.
First off is the victim, she hopefully wont have to wait too long for the new drive train:

Trans:


Looks like the throw out bearing is missing a part of it...oh well it shall be replaced:

Slave:

I do have a question about the front drive shaft, is it the same as my Automatic or is the Manual different in length / bolt pattern? I just put all new joints in my current drive shaft and am wondering if this one needs to be swapped in or not. If its the same I will post it to classifieds in case someone needs an extra.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Since this 5 speed is out of a 95 Rodeo I will also have to do the following SOTF delete. Was thinking about doing it before, I have had bad luck with vacuum actuators in the past and when you are stuck in mud and water and cant get into 4x4 you start to hate the systems. Guess now there is a valid reason to do it.
Will be using this write up:
http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/fwd_lockout/?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
jwood1016 said:
You will need a shorter front driveshaft and a longer rear driveshaft. I do believe all the u-joints are compatible though so you can just swap them over.
Great! Then all I am missing is the rear shaft. I know you are definitively going to be a resource for me so expect PMs in the future haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For those that know...is the rear driveshaft the same after the support bearing? If it is then I only need the front half of the rear driveshaft correct?

Here is all the parts I still need to acquire:

Clutch kit
Clutch hydraulic rubber line
Clutch hard line
Flywheel
Transmission input shaft seal (this doesnt look like it was leaking at all but better same than sorry right?)
Engine rear main seal (I have a sneaking suspicion this is leaking)
Inspection plate (the trans came with it torn in half and mangled, I would like to get a replacement rather than make one)
Transfer case shifter
Shifter boots (cloth and rubber) and interior trim piece
Rear driveshaft (hoping just the front half)
Clutch pedal (going to probably trim the brake pedal for the time being and put grip tape on clutch and brake pedal, I have done this in the past and liked the results)

I know many of you may have some of these parts lying around but I dont have all the cash yet to buy them from you. So look out for a WTB thread in the near future!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hopped on ebay and found a complete 2 piece rear driveshaft out of a 95 Rodeo. $65 shipped, think its a pretty good deal :) will need to swap all of my new joints over to the new shafts...fun fun nothing I like more than doing 5 u-joints...I am getting some money soon so I am hoping to get all my parts together by the end of this month.

Anyone know the dimensions of the clutch pressure plate to flywheel bolts? Also, I am planning on using the flexplate bolts on the flywheel, will that give me any issues?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Shoot, now I am hooked on ebay shopping haha...clutch pedal shipped for 16 bucks!
Projected cost for the entire build is around $675.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks to lowzone I have the transfer case shifter and rubber boot on the way.
I am kind of torn right now for flywheel options...I would love OEM but the ones that I have seen are about 30-40 bucks used plus 30 for resurfacing..thats about the same price I can get one off Rock Auto for brand new.
Also, does anyone know if my flex plate bolts work with the flywheel or no? And while I am at it, anyone know what the dimensions are for the bolts I need to attach the pressure plate to the flywheel?
I hope to have all the parts by end of February!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just won a Sachs clutch kit on ebay for 86 shipped! List price at the auto parts store is over 325! Booyah!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Bolted the pedal in today...sucks as there is no space to work and the top left nut is basically unreachabled with my hands. I also need to bolt the master to the pedal and then trim my stock brake pedal...the interior work is probably going to be the worst part of it all.
I would also like to keep my cruise control so I will need to buy that sensor and wire it all up to the harness. According to Jwoods writeup there were two wires that he didnt use that were cut off from the auto harness, probably need to use those and wire them to the switch. Dont think I am going to wire the nuetral safety switch though...like not having to push the clutch in and for bumping the car forward if need be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Lowzone sent me the rubber boots and transfer case shifter today and I ordered a new flywheel. I cant find a good used one to resurface so I ordered a new one, should be here in a week or so. I am planning on starting the swap in 2 weeks.
Plan before I pull the trans is:
Finish pedals up
Run the hydraulic line for the slave
Day before I do the swap I am planning on pulling the driveshafts and swapping all the u-joints and carrier bearing over
Lots of work lays ahead of me! Going to replace the rear main seal and valve cover gaskets about the same time too. Just need an extra set of hands!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I thought I would post up my parts list that I created and I am working from for the swap for those that may be interested in the future. I also am including what I paid for them, I am a deal hunter so I have a lot of good deals on here. Should help with creating a budget or estimate on what it would cost to swap from the auto-tragic 4L30-E to MUA5. I know Jwoods cost him about $500 ish, think I will be over what he paid though.

MUA 5 speed transmission with transfer case: $135 purchased locally.
New Sachs clutch kit: $86, won on ebay
New clutch hydraulic hose: $22
New clutch hard line and fittings: $10
Used clutch slave: Free, came with trans.
Used clutch master: Free
New flywheel: $72
Engine rear main seal: $20
Inspection plate: Trans didnt come with it, on the hunt for this part.
Oil for trans and transfer case: $16
Transfer case shifter and rubber boot: $25
Interior trim piece: Have yet to source these pieces.
Rear driveshaft: $65
Front Driveshaft: Free, came with trans.
Clutch pedal: $16
Brake pedal: Undecided on whether I will cut the stock one or buy a 5 speed pedal, hoping I can cut my stock pedal and put the rubber cover on it.

I will need to grab some misc bolts and stuff but dont think it will cost that much. Also some wiring but I have a lot of those pieces laying around and a clutch switch for getting the cruise to work. Getting excited for the whole swap. Dont know what to do with the slipping 4L30...thinking disassemble it and get some money for the scrap metal. Anyone need a core or want to rebuild a trans?
 

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I might be interested in the pan if no one else wants the trans. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
mtman said:
I might be interested in the pan if no one else wants the trans. Thanks.
All yours if no one wants the trans as a core or the transfer case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well the last two critical parts will be here today! I am going to do the swap this weekend. I pulled all the old u joints out and carrier bearing. I hope to finish attaching the clutch pedal and master cylinder today and maybe run my hard line for the clutch as well. I will try and post pics as I go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Big Jay said:
My question is how are you handling adding the clutch pedal, MC, etc.?
There are studs that are pre-installed for mounting the clutch pedal assembly. Also the big hole and two small holes are already there for the clutch master. All bolt in :) just need the nuts which in my case were already there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well I had a really rough day and the batteries died on the camera. No pics so this might be the lamest auto to 5spd thread. Every single bolt seemed to be as if Hercules tightened the bolts himself.
I wasted an hour and countless knuckle bruises and cuts trying to separate the trans from the transfer case...come to find out its not the allen head bolts that need to be removed but rather the easy to reach 14mm bolts and nuts...with the exhaust there it was pretty darn hard to get the transfer case out but I suceeded, much easier with a lift, dont know how you all do it without one...my hats off to you.
It was an absolute nightmare trying to get the torque converter bolts off as well...the bolt has to be in the exact perfect spot or its impossible with the window Isuzu gave you and also the starter is in my imagination impossible to remove with the trans in the way...how the heck can you remove that thing?
But, the transmission is out and things are creeping along as I finished up the pedal and master. Good news is i dont have to cut the tunnel as its pre cut for the boot that lowzone sent me.
The worst news though and I must say I am an absolute idiot...my stupidity pretty much cost me getting more than halfway today. I put a trans jack under the trans and did a bunch of other things and forgot the trans was there and needed something from inside the truck...up went the lift to clear the safeties and then down down down and then BAM! Broke both exhaust downpipes at the welds where they connect to the exhaust manifold. I am so mad at myself. i have a friend who can kind of weld and the pipe is still in good condition. He tack welded the pipes in place so I could then drop the exhaust and he could finish on the ground...only problem is the flange bolts are nice and heat treated / rusted on. I have 3 out of the 6 off and soaking the other ones down over night with penetrating oil. Worst case scenario I have to buy new cats...640 bucks in the cheapest i can find for both sides...I am praying I dont have to go that route as I do not have that cash right now or anytime in the near future as the replacement transmission set me back a ton already.
Sucks and I am tired. Hoping for the best tomorrow. Anyone have some spare cats they want to send my way off a Rodeo?
 
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