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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a pair of Aisin manual locking hubs at the Pick A Part yesterday. Last night I tore them apart, cleaned and greased them, and installed them on my 92 Rodeo this morning.
These are the pics I took during the conversion with a brief description of what I did.

Tools needed:
14mm socket
10mm socket
8mm allen wrench
Snap ring pliers
Small flat head screwdriver or small hooked pick
Torque wrench

Materials needed:
RTV gasket sealer
Medium / Blue Loctite
Anti seize compound
Hi temp bearing grease
Extra 12mm bolt about 2 inches long

Parts Diagrams (click pics for hi res photos):
Auto Hubs

Manual Hubs


Pics:

The Aisin hubs after I cleaned them up. A little rough looking but I think I will wait til it warms up this spring before I strip them and paint them.


Jack up the truck and remove the tire.
Remove the six 14mm bolts from the auto hubs


Remove the hub cap and bearing assembly. They just slide right off without using any tools.


There is a small snap ring / clip holding the drive clutch assembly on. Use the snap ring pliers to remove the clip. There may also be a small shim washer behind the clip that needs to be slid off. Mine was missing on one side.


Now slide the drive clutch assembly and inner cam off the spindle.

All the parts of the Auto Hub removed.


On the end of the spindle you will see two grooves for the snap rings. The yellow arrow points to where the ring for the Auto Hub went. The Red arrow shows where the new ring for the manual hub will go.


Clean and grease the spindle if needed. I just greased my bearings last week so it didn't need it.
Now apply a thin layer of RTV to the edge of the hub.


Now slide on the body assembly and install the 8mm allen head bolts. Apply loctite to the threads first to prevent them from working loose over time. Torque to 44lbs.ft.


The spindle can slide in and out a little so you need to pull it out all the way in order to get the shim and snap ring on. On the end of the spindle is a threaded hole for a 12mm bolt. I screwed in a bolt and just pulled on it with my hand, then slipped on the shim (yellow) and snap ring (blue).


Apply a thin layer of RTV to the body housing followed by the gasket, if you have one, and then slide on the housing assembly. It will only go on one way, well actually two but either way will work. It's a good idea to test fit it before installing the RTV and gasket so ya don't get RTV all over the gears trying to figure out which way it goes on.


Put some anti seize on the 10mm bolts and bolt on the body housing. I have read that the 10mm bolts are suppose to be torqued to 44lbs.ft. but they felt like they were going to snap before they got that tight so I just snugged them up using a 12 inch long socket wrench and will periodically check them to make sure they aren't working loose.


Put the tires back on and you're good to go.

Total time, including taking pics and smoke breaks, less than an hour total to do both sides.

Now go playing in the hills and try them out :D


Like I've said before, I am new to this mechanicing stuff so if I missed something please feel free to leave me a reply and I will get it added to this post.

Thanks,
Shane
 

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Thanks Shane. That will be very helpful to a lot of folks. As I just learned from Bart last week, the large springs on the Aisin hubs are only supposed to go on a certain way. did you discover that? or did you just mark everything? Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
DSUZU said:
Thanks Shane. That will be very helpful to a lot of folks. As I just learned from Bart last week, the large springs on the Aisin hubs are only supposed to go on a certain way. did you discover that? or did you just mark everything? Dennis
I took lots of quick before pics when I tore the Aisins apart, plus I did just one at a time so I could compare them to the other 3. I should of took better detailed pics and put together a tutorial on it but I was to tired, dirty, and sore from the two slip n falls I took on the ice yesterday. I still have the other two and can put something together in a couple of weeks if someone is interested.
 

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Nice! I've been thinking about doing this to mine, thanks for the awesome writeup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Troop92 said:
Nice! I've been thinking about doing this to mine, thanks for the awesome writeup.
Thanks Troop! It's very easy to do and I think a big improvement over the Auto hubs. I never did trust mine, even after tearing them apart and greasing them they sometimes still wouldn't engage.
 

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ShaneWhitlock said:
DSUZU said:
I still have the other two and can put something together in a couple of weeks if someone is interested.
A complete tutorial from junkyard, to rebuild, to repaint, to reinstall? Yea i'd say there would be ooooodles of interest in that, even if you 'know' what your doing its a reassuring hand to have a handy well written/thought out guide like this one available. Sometimes the 'simple' things (like converting to manual hubs) get over looked cuz most(ppl) even if they're new to isuzu are still veterans in this type of stuff....and the new guys that barely know a snap ring from a shim get forgotten. I sir thankyou.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
-88- said:
Sometimes the 'simple' things (like converting to manual hubs) get over looked cuz most(ppl) even if they're new to isuzu are still veterans in this type of stuff....and the new guys that barely know a snap ring from a shim get forgotten. I sir thankyou.
Thanks 88,
I agree, being a noob myself I wasn't sure how to go about swapping them out. I found bits and pieces here and there on it but not a complete step by step, at least that I could find. I did however find some YouTube videos that were pretty handy and there is one on how to completely take apart the Aisin hubs and put them together.
 

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To add: if you are disassembling your Aisin hubs here are a couple of pictures of the spring. Note the larger end and the smaller end (coil spacing)
hubs and bracket 001.JPG
hubs and bracket 002.JPG


Also, be sure that if you go to install the cap/spring assemblies that if the spring is compressed, the cap knob is in the free position. You can install them with the spring compressed (free) and the knob in the locked position. Then the knob will not turn and the hubs will not engage. To verify operation, jack up each when and try spinning it while watching the CV shaft (free). Shaft should not turn with the wheel. Then try the other position (locked). The shaft should turn when the wheel is turned. Dennis
 

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Good writeup. It should be pointed out that Warn or Super winch hubs use the same procedure. Also you can leave the tires on. No need to fuss around with Jack stands and a jack.
 

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" Also you can leave the tires on. No need to fuss around with Jack stands and a jack."
This is true only if you don't have the open-ended hub covers that install through the back of the wheel. Look again at the picture of the final cap bolt install, it would be a nightmare to get the RTV sealant & 8mm hub body bolts installed with this hub cover in place.
 

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Great post! From the junkyard to the awards podium. The step by step with pictures makes it clear and easy.
 

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Is it warn or super winch hubs that use the small snap ring on the outside of the spindle instead of the big one?
-J 8)
 

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Beautiful write up and wonderful job.

Thank you

cheers
-Ian :blackeye:
 

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Hi, does anyone know the size of the cir clips and any shims that are in there as they did not come with my manual hubs unfortunately. What can you use also in place of the shims? some approximate same sized washer?

Thanks

Thanks
 

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The large spline C-clips are 26 mm approx 1&1/16 inch, though some people have used 1 inch C-clips which are 25.4 mm.
1&1/16 is a bit large for the C-clip, closer to 27 mm, but should be okay for the shims.
 
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