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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,
thanks for taking the time to stop and check this out...
I had to replace the head in my isuzu. I took it all apart about 4 months ago, and then I got laid off, so I had to wait until I had a new job to buy all the parts I needed. when I was taking the engine apart, I did not remember to mark the distributor when I took it out, but I did take pictures of everything else as I took it apart. (so that I would know what to do when putting it back together) I purchased a reman head from a machine shop that had had a 3angle valve job done on it, along with a cold air intake kit, an electric fan, and a few other small things to help improve power and gas mileage. I put it all back together and tried starting it and it was pushing fuel out of the o rings on the fuel injectors (thats what I get for buying universal o rings) so I took it all back apart, and put new oem rings on it and put it back together again. while I was putting it back together I got the smog pump stuck inside its bracket, so my helper started hitting it to try to get it loose, well it came loose in pieces. So I got to looking out here, and decided to eliminate it. I bought drain plugs and put in where the exhaust recirculation tube goes, and took out all the equipment for the smog pump, and air recirculation system.

Sorry about all of that, but I wanted to give as much pertinent information about the engine as possible.

My problem is that after setting the crank shaft pulley, cam shaft pulley, and distributor to tdc, my motor still wont run. I can turn the key and it will try to start, but it it doesnt sound right... I am not sure what to try to do now. I dont want to have to take it to a shop to have them fix it (being at a new job, I am still on a tight budget)

The electric fan is not installed, but I did make the necessary adjustments to attach to cold air intake. It has a new thermostat, new plugs, wires, all new fluids everywhere. I have no idea what I have done wrong, or what to do next.

The only thing I can figure is that I messed something up in the vaccum system, and my repair manual doesnt have clear diagrams or photographs for me to know what everything goes to (and due to eliminating the smog pump stuff, some of them are just capped because i removed the system that they went to)

Can anyone help me?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
sorry, I just realized that I forgot to say how the engine doesnt sound right. It sounds like the timing is still off. (which I think is the true problem as to why it wont run)
 

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Those have to be timed facing number 4 cyl because the way the dist. cap goes on sideways. It sounds like your just 180 out. Not being able to hear it but that's a good guess. Are the valves adjusted good??
 

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The isuzu 2.6 (maybe other Isuzu's as well) are on the #4 compression stroke when the marks on the cam gear and harmonic balancer are lined up with their correspnding timing marks. This is a common mistake made by everyone the first time they do one of these. Even the Haynes or Chilton's manual will tell you that it's #1 but it's not. With the cam and harmonic balancer lined up, remove the distributor cap and remove the distributor enough so that you can align the rotor with the hold down stud. Tighten everything up, reinstall the cap and it should fire right off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did not adjust the valves, I bought it fully assembled. (I paid just a little more to not have to hassle with it) Thank you for your help bradzuzu

So the rotor bug needs to point at the adjustment stud? (when it is dead center in the adjustment slot?) I also appreciate your assistance **********

Also I forgot to mention that I somehow have an extra plug underneath my intake manifold. I have a black and white plug under there from the wiring harness, but there is only one plug in on the bottom of the intake manifold and its black (so I plugged the black one in there, since all the other plugs are color coordinated) My manual doesnt mention anything about the electrical plugs underneath the intake manifold, so I cant tell if the white one was some auxiliary plug for an option my amigo doesnt have, or if I have overlooked where it goes.
 

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i agree with valve adjustment and the 180 out idea i ran in to this issue on my first time.The valves should be checked with the motor warm, and the timing markes lined up means #4 is TDC the button should point at the #4 post under the cap..good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you very much pubradshju. I'm gonna give it a shot tomorrow.
when you say check the valves, you are talking about removing the valve cover after the truck was running and is shut off? My problem is I cant get it to run, not that it runs rough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have another question, if it is 180 out, how many times do I have to spin the crank from tdc to get it back to where it needs to be? I have been working on my personal cars for a couple years; so I know how to do nearly anything, but I have never had this problem before...
 

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Nosida said:
Thank you very much pubradshju. I'm gonna give it a shot tomorrow.
when you say check the valves, you are talking about removing the valve cover after the truck was running and is shut off? My problem is I cant get it to run, not that it runs rough.
Remove spark plugs (to minimize compression) and rotate the crankshaft with a big ol' socket / ratchet / breaker bar.
 

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What the 180 out means is that the dist. Is pointing in the opposite direction. So all you need to do to get it where you need it (static time) number one cylinder at tdc compression stroke. Pull the plug turn it over by hand while looking for you timing marks on the engine pulley. Feel for compression. Sometimes the bottom outer pulley can slip so it may not lign up. If you have any question regarding that, pull your upper cam belt cover and reference the cam timing mark.
From there you set the dist. pointing at number 4 reference the cap. Then you'll be static timed and should be ready to rock and roll!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
shooter- How does moving the pistons allow you to check if the valves are adjusted properly? and how can you tell if they are properly adjusted?

Bradzuzu- THANK YOU! I am gonna give that a try. when you say feel for compression, this is where I pull the no1 spark plug, put in a pencil and watch for it to rise and fall? and then turn it back until it reaches the peak if the compression stroke again?
 

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Yes kind of you need to get your finger down there so you can feel the piston push.... It could end up on the exauhst stroke not making compression, at that point the engine would be 180 out from your static dist timing!!! You'll get it dude!!! Then you'll be able to Bragg about how nice your engine runs !!!! :)
 

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You rotate the crank. The crank pulley and cam pulley are married via the timing belt belt. This in turn moves the valves up/down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
bradzuzu- when you say no 1 cyllinder do you mean the one closest to the passenger compartment? (my book shows the one closest to the front of the car as cyllinder 1 and thats the one I have been trying to set everything tdc for) I will try realigning everything for tdc off of the one my book calls cyllinder 4 instead, maybe that is my problem?

shooter- I understand that, my question for you was how do you know if they valves are properly adjusted. I know how the timing belt drives the cam shaft, which in turn moves the valves. I am not dense, just confused as t owhat you are referring.
 

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What shooter means is once the engine has ran and been warmed up, that's when it's a good time to check valve lash. For the 2.6 you put a feeler Gage in between the cam lobe heal and rocker that pushes the valve open. Number one is the front cylinder. It's confusing because the cap flat like an old school mallery. So when you look at the cap on the inside you can see somewhat how the pickups travel through it and out to the plug wires. I messed mine up to so don't think your the only one confused lol.
So number 1 cyl tdc. Rotor facing number 4 on the outside of the cap and that should be good.
As far as your valves go, worry about one thing at a time if the shop did it right it should run fine. It's suggested to recheck head torque after a few hundred miles and since your in there you could check your valve lash with a feeler Gage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well then I have just gone and wasted another 2 hours or so. I had the cam/crank set to top dead center, and the distributor to #4 and it still wouldnt start, so I took off the timing belt, and set the crank to the pulley mark on the left side(as opposed to the one all the way on the right) and then put the timing belt back on with the cam at tdc, and was about to take the distributor off again and set it to #4 again(for the 3rd or 4th time) and so now I have to redo the whole deal again to set it straight. If the setup was fine before I took it apart, what else could be keeping it from starting? I am getting so aggravated with this thing
 

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Nosida said:
bradzuzu- when you say no 1 cyllinder do you mean the one closest to the passenger compartment? (my book shows the one closest to the front of the car as cyllinder 1 and thats the one I have been trying to set everything tdc for) I will try realigning everything for tdc off of the one my book calls cyllinder 4 instead, maybe that is my problem?

shooter- I understand that, my question for you was how do you know if they valves are properly adjusted. I know how the timing belt drives the cam shaft, which in turn moves the valves. I am not dense, just confused as t owhat you are referring.
I in no way was expressing or implying your being dense. You check the clearance with a feel gauge; more easily accomplished with one that has the bent tips.
 

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I'm sorry buddy!!! My book is at home so I'm going off of memory. If your bottom pulley is good you can at the time of degree-ing the crank slip the bottom plastic on then the pulley to reference the tdc marks. From there if all is lookin good put your belt on. Rotate it back and forth a few times coming back normal engine rotation to the two marks cam and crank. That part if all aligned is done deal. Then move on to the ignition timing.
Now depending on what it's doing/not doing check spark make sure that your spark is nice and hot bluish white. If that all checks out move onto your fuel system.
You might even want to do a compression test to verify that it's mechanically sound.
You don't think the cam timing was off and bent valves do you ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
shooter- Thank you sir, I greatly appreciate your assistance. I must be a little edgy, I am not usually so sensitive; I apologize for jumping to conclusions. I will use your advice after I get the dang thing running.

Does anybody know if removing the smog pump/exhaust recirculation system could be causing it to not start? I assumed it was timing because it sounded that way, but now I am beginning to think it is something else. I have set the motor to top dead center on the no 1 cylinder several times now, and used the adjustment I have from the distributor, and still cannot get this ridiculously finicky vehicle to run.

bradzuzu- Its fine, dont worry about it. My pulleys looked fine when I had it all apart before, I have not been taking all the plastic back off every time. My Dad told me that if I can turn the pulley with my hands, just do it that way, I have been doing exactly that. I set the thing with the no 1 piston all the way up (top dead center) and made sure the cam shaft was at tdc, then moved on to the distributor (pointed at no 4 spark plug wire inside the cap) and still got the rwar-rwar-rwar-put.... rwar-rwar-rwar-put sound that it has made since I took the dang thing apart.
I think I am almost at the point where I am in over my head.
The spark is fine, I checked it first thing. Why would it all the sudden develop a fuel problem? I had been driving the thing for about 6 months by this time and put 6000 miles on it in the time I owned it. It was running great till the head gasket blew, as soon as that happened, I took it all apart, and now I have come to the point where I am at a loss. I have done it the book way, I have done it my way, I have done it your way, and now I have done it a weird(and wrong) way, so I dont know what to do anymore.
 

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Johny five said the rotor needs to point at the mounting stud....
If your looking inside the cap it-might be backwards. When it happened to me I looked inside the cap found number one pick up pointed the rotor towards it which in turn extremely points towards the stud and bam O she ran. The smog has no effect on the running I took mine off to.
 
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