From an old post of mine:
The plan that I was going to use was to install a second alternator in
that spot, and wire it directly to the back battery. That way I had 2
seperate systems (with the exception of the combiner and switch, both of
which can be turned off). I had also looked at replacing the AC idler
pulley with a small alternator. Unfortunately before I could finish
either one of these installs, my main stock alternator died (mmm, mud
bath). New ones were expensive, and I got a quote of almost $200 to
rebuild the one I had. For another $100 I got the ~150amp alternator. I
had already wasted quite a bit of time messing with the second alternator,
and was just going to get one to bolt in.
So, I ordered one from startech (http://www.gostartech.com/). Cliff
worked with me and recommended two. I got the one that was slightly
smaller (to save money). There was a slight problem with it: it wouldn't
quite clear the alternator pivot bracket that bolts to the engine. So, I
unbolted it, ground it away, put it back, checked, unbolted it...... -
took several hours one night to get it installed. Then I carefully wired
it in, and tested it. My dash lights were still on. ARG!!! Anyway, to
make a long story short, I returned it, the first one had a bad voltage
regulator or diod pack - I forget now.
Second one worked (14.3 volts), but the lights on the dash were still
on. Turns out that it wasn't quite the right model (physically it was,
but electrically things were different). The output on the "sense" wire
was like 4.5 volts, not the 12 that out trucks want. So, I installed a
small relay that is activated by the 4.5 volts. Cost me far less than the
shipping back to florida to get the right alternator. Cliff was willing
to work with me until I had things working however, I don't fault him.
If you get one from there, get the larger one. It has longer mounting
ears and shouldn't require any grinding. I learned my lesson.
The plan that I was going to use was to install a second alternator in
that spot, and wire it directly to the back battery. That way I had 2
seperate systems (with the exception of the combiner and switch, both of
which can be turned off). I had also looked at replacing the AC idler
pulley with a small alternator. Unfortunately before I could finish
either one of these installs, my main stock alternator died (mmm, mud
bath). New ones were expensive, and I got a quote of almost $200 to
rebuild the one I had. For another $100 I got the ~150amp alternator. I
had already wasted quite a bit of time messing with the second alternator,
and was just going to get one to bolt in.
So, I ordered one from startech (http://www.gostartech.com/). Cliff
worked with me and recommended two. I got the one that was slightly
smaller (to save money). There was a slight problem with it: it wouldn't
quite clear the alternator pivot bracket that bolts to the engine. So, I
unbolted it, ground it away, put it back, checked, unbolted it...... -
took several hours one night to get it installed. Then I carefully wired
it in, and tested it. My dash lights were still on. ARG!!! Anyway, to
make a long story short, I returned it, the first one had a bad voltage
regulator or diod pack - I forget now.
Second one worked (14.3 volts), but the lights on the dash were still
on. Turns out that it wasn't quite the right model (physically it was,
but electrically things were different). The output on the "sense" wire
was like 4.5 volts, not the 12 that out trucks want. So, I installed a
small relay that is activated by the 4.5 volts. Cost me far less than the
shipping back to florida to get the right alternator. Cliff was willing
to work with me until I had things working however, I don't fault him.
If you get one from there, get the larger one. It has longer mounting
ears and shouldn't require any grinding. I learned my lesson.
