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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i got a bunch of questions and rather than hog bandwidth for each question i'm compiling them all into one post, and each question has its own paragraph so that there is less confusion.

i've noticed lately that my rodeo smokes a little. as the title of the topic states its a 3.2 and there is just over 77k on the motor. i did my last oil change at 75k. i used castrol syntec blend 5w-30 with an stp filter from auto-zone. its does it even after the motor has warmed up. i took a 400 mile non-stop trip(i did drive-throughs and such, the motor was running constantly) and it did it when i got back. its not a black or blue smoke, but a whitish color. it doesn't really have a smell to it either. it didn't do this when i bought the truck. it only smoked on really cold days and after the truck warmed up it stopped.

next question. i've noticed lately is my motor seems less powerful than before. and that it is also slightly noisy. when i bought it, you could hardly tell it was running, but now you can clearly hear it,lol. its not a pinging or a knocking sound(i had a cherokee with the 4.0 with 350k and that thing knocked like an sob but you couldn't kill it :D the motor just seems louder. i only run shell gas 87 octane. now is there anything io can do to make the motor purr again, or do i have to deal with it? and would the increase in noise be related to my lack of power?

i know i need brake shoes in back. are they hard to replace? i've never done shoes before. i've done pads. i know its been mentioned to go with isuzu pads on oem rotors because aftermarket pads squeel. does this apply to brake shoes as well? i plan on doing the work myself as my budget is very, very, very tight. also do i have to bleed the brakes after? sorry about the long winded question, but i've never really done alot of brake work before. the last time that i worked on my brakes was 3 years ago,lol

this is my last question for now. every time i hit a bump or such i hear a clunking noise from the back hatch. i'm going to assume that this is the wiper hitting the hatch. is there any way to keep it from doing that or am i going to have to deal with it?

thanks in advance!
 

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1. The white smoke could be a cracked head and water (anti-freeze is getting into the oil).

2. you could be due to add a product like Sea Foam to your oil to help clean up the carbon, and add a fuel injector cleaner and clean up the EGR valve and port and the PCV.

4. The clunk. try a few wraps of electrical tape around the door catch. Also pull the jack and any other junk you have in the back and take it for a drive to determine if that is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Amigo-2k, if the antifreeze was getting into the oil, wouldn't the oil appear foamy or bubbly. i check my oil at every fill up, and its not using much oil if any, and it does not appear abnormal.

tomorrow, i'll add some fuel injector cleaner and some seafoam.

and i'll try what you suggest with the jack and such. thanks
 

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Also you don't have shoes in the rear. You have pads.

Joe
 

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Amigo-2k said:
1. The white smoke could be a cracked head and water (anti-freeze is getting into the oil)......
while anti-freeze can get into the oil from a cracked head, this wouldn't show up at the tail pipe. . .
the white smoke from the tail pipe is usually an indication of coolant/water in the combustion chamber, which *can* be from a cracked head, but can equally be less dramatic 'blown' head *gasket*.

i suggest you keep pinpointing exactly when this happens and go from there -- plus visual checks, compression test, etc. if the gasket is *blown* you will probably want to get the head checked out at a quality machine shop to check for cracks.

it only smoked on really cold days and after the truck warmed up it stopped.
this is the condensation (water) in the exhaust components, including catalytic converter, burning off. but if your current concern is the same color etc, it does point you even more convincingly to a blown head gasket or cracked head.

next question. i've noticed lately is my motor seems less powerful than before. and that it is also slightly noisy. when i bought it, you could hardly tell it was running, but now you can clearly hear it,lol.
mmm...so did this start about the time you noticed the white exhaust? my guess is that they're common cause.

do the compression test, sooner than later.

BTW, did you run this engine either low on coolant (i.e. hot) or low on oil?

hope this helps to point you in the right direction....
 

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As far as the brakes go, you don't have to use OEM pads to prevent squealing.

There's a product called Disc Brake Quiet, made by CRC and sold at Napa, and once it dries, it acts as an adhesive between the pad and the caliper. A squeal is basically a high-frequency vibration, and the Disc Brake Quiet prevents this vibration from occurring.

It's sold in a red container.
 

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I'd go with ceramic pads as they seem to produce less dust and do less damage to the rotors than metallic so they will last a little longer before needing to be replaced. Also, might want to have your valves adjusted if you're running rough and a little noisy. Maintenance sched. says at 60K or as needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
stupid question, how do i adjust the valves? ortis it better left to a mechanic?

i also brought it to my mwechanic yesterday to look at the brakes and i needed pads at all 4 corners. i just had it inspected last month too. my mecghanic says whoever did it, did a piss-poor job. i saw the pads and there was alost nothing left, and theres no way that happened in a month. i shoulda known something was up when the vehicle was only in 10 minutes :evil: :roll:
 

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evilcrownvic said:
stupid question, how do i adjust the valves? ortis it better left to a mechanic?

i also brought it to my mwechanic yesterday to look at the brakes and i needed pads at all 4 corners. i just had it inspected last month too. my mecghanic says whoever did it, did a piss-poor job. i saw the pads and there was alost nothing left, and theres no way that happened in a month. i shoulda known something was up when the vehicle was only in 10 minutes :evil: :roll:
Another reason why you should be your own mechanic. :wink:
 
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