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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Nice forum you guy's have here, I have read thru many post's looking for alternator upgrades for 99 trooper. Does any other make/model cross ? I'm looking for 200 amp alt. Any help would be greatly appreiciated, Thank's again.
 

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mrpostman64 said:
Nice forum you guy's have here, I have read thru many post's looking for alternator upgrades for 99 trooper. Does any other make/model cross ? I'm looking for 200 amp alt. Any help would be greatly appreiciated, Thank's again.
I think they make a 160amp one but thats as high as it goes. Watcha need 200 amps for?
 

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200 amps :shock:

You running an onboard welder ???

Amyhow, chevy alternators are retrofitted pretty easilly, I was going to do it, but i scored a cheap reman with a lifetime warrantee so i just went with it for now...

heres a link to the chebby ALT conversion...
http://planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm?id=99&180_Amp_Alternator_on_the_Isuzu_3.2

I'm pretty sure you can put an ALT from anything on there as long as it fits and is wired corrctly, good luck !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank's for the replies, I'm hooking up a few amps and need the higher amp alt to keep up two batteries. I had seen the chevy pic's but was wondering if it would be the same for the 3.5 liter ? I have looked on the car stereo forums and I can find almost everything for every other vehicle except for the trooper. And some of the online alt shops don't show anything for a 99 trooper. Thank's again if anyone out there hears or know's any info would be greatly appreiciated.
 

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Have you ever heard of a capacitor ? a battery wont help you one bit, ask a stereo shop...

do yourself a favor and make sure you have a HEALTHY alternator and the correct battery (mine had a little 24 series when i got it, i think i put the 72 back in it, it was like $130 bucks, but with that and the new alternator, i can run every accesory i have plus the stereo and its fine, but i only have a 600 watt amp and a .5 farad cap...

rule of thumb is 1.0 farad per 1,000 watts rms...

Get a double battery terminal, run 0 guage wire directly from your battery to your cap from your cap to isolation block, then whatever guage your amp input is and use 0 guage for your ground, you should be fine, every stereo ive ever seen hooked up correctly never had extra batteries, just capacitors...a high output alternator is NEVER bad thing, but IMP a battery is a waste of money unless you need the extra CCA or you run alot of accesories with the engine not running...

JMHO, kris...
 

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^ I truly mean no insult by this superswire but you are completely incorrect about the battery vs capacitor argument for power. I am pretty deep into high power car audio as well as an electrical power engineer by trade just for reference.

Do a search online for battery vs capacitor for car audio and read up a bit. Capacitors are only capable of smoothing ripples in power. They have very fast discharge times(on the order of milliseconds), so yes using a capacitor will help for the first few milliseconds of bass but how ofter have you heard a bass note that quick? Never. Batteries are much more effective for running high amperage equipment, they can sustain higher current draws for much longer. Often times capacitors do more hurt than anything if the alternator is not up to par because it is just another load for the alternator to be charging.

Look at competition car audio cars...they all have battery banks. The big guys running 20,000 to 40,000+ true watts rms have banks of 10, 20, 30+ high rate AGM group 31 batteries and no capacitors.(multiple high output alternators as well)

OP, for sustained power draw, alternators are key. It is the only thing in your car that continually makes electrical power. Everything else only stores it.
Send an email to michael singer. http://singeralternators.com/
He offers a 150amp max ~90-100 amp at idle alt that would fit in the stock location for my rodeo. I would imagine he could help you out with something a bit larger since you have a troop. You could also check mechman or DC power for alternators. You have to pay for real power tho.
 

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I guess...all i know is i had systems up to a US amps 2000x (rare amp i scored from a buddy, supposedly 4,000watts) with no issues with an HO alternator, good optima battery, caps and corect wiring, never needed a second battery, my samurai i had to upgrade to a chebby alternator, thats about it...maybe if you have 6,000 watts or are running like i said an onboard welder or something, but to heck with all that, ive seen systems running a solid 200 watts destroy systems people thought they were running 2,000 watts just because thats what thier amp said on it...my 96 blazer dimmed the headlights a little with a thunder 275x AND a thunder 400h.o. hooked up, but after a 1.0 cap, she was just fine with the engine running...

i'm not getting into a peeing contest, i was just voicing my opinion, ive sen more problems out of alternators trying to charge more than one battery than i have out of just gettng a good deep cell and upgrading a few components (ALT,wiring,caps,etc...)

Sorry if you feel i steered you in the wrong direction, but I have seen it first hand just as mrd6 has, if you are going insane with your wattage like more than 2,000 watts, then maybe you should talk to him instead and i apologize...
 

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didnt mean to offend at all. Rereading my post it did seem kinda rude I apologize. I was only trying to inform that for the money, a good agm no matter the size will go much further than a capacitor
 
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