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Well, I can do it in about 20 minutes. 8)

But I've done it a bunch of times already. The way I do it is to put the truck on jack stands, remove the front wheels, going in through the wheel openings, unbolt the motor mounts from the frame, 2 bolts each, jack up the engine, using a piece of wood on your jack to protect the oil pan, then remove the drivers side motor mount and set it aside without taking it out, (as if you could take it out), then, after you have disconnected the battery, disconnect the wires from the starter, remove the two bolts holding the starter, and then snake it out the wheel opening. Pull the rubber curtain for easier access. Don't forget to put it back. This help keep cold water from splashing onto your hot exhaust manifold and possibly cracking it.
 
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tripower,

Welcome to the Planet! Did you wake up on the wrong side this early AM? Or is your comment reflective of no or little sleep?

Catfuzz is a frequent contributor of first hand experience and advice. Many have benefited. I'm sure if you ORGANIZE your time, tools & equipment, you will find Catfuzz's suggestions accurate. Granted, he probably has honed down the time it takes by virtue of experience. So will you, when doing a task a few times and learning those small unmentioned shortcuts only discovered by DOING!

So, take a deep breath, and follow Catfuzz's outlined procedures as best you can. We're confident you will succeed in a timely fashion.

Hope this helps,

GB :)
 

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tripower said:
20 minutes my a--. I took a look at that it is more work than removing the exhaust. Get real.
Wow. Quite the expert, eh? If you're so smart, why did you ask here? My 20 minute estimate was actually a little bit liberal. If I was in a hurry, I could shave it down to less than 15. So, go ahead and drop your exhaust. I hope you don't break any studs or bolts and get it sealed back up properly the first time. I've done the exhaust method. The engine lift method is far easier, better, faster and less risky of causing yourself additional work when your exhaust bolts break off. But, do what you like. Also note, I didn't say YOU could do it in 20 minutes. I said I could.

Thanks for the support, gb89amigo. :mrgreen:
 

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:laughing3:
 

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I did it by dropping the exhaust. Only because I didn't know any better. Problem with that is that I know have 3 broken exhaust fasteners, (2 studs on the top, and 1 bolt on the bottom) which also means I have a noisy, rattling exhaust and a O2 sensor code. :roll: No matter now much penetrating oil (I even used Aerokroil = $$) you put on them those exhaust bolts/studs are likely to break. It's been 3 years since and tapping/extracting those studs/bolts and replacing them sounds like such a pain I haven't attempted it yet.

IF your exhaust fasteners are in pristine condition, then that would be quicker. Bit if I where to do it again I would try the other way, and I would have a quieter Rodeo. :(
 

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The starter was the first thing we replaced following CatFuzz direction. Took 30ish min and that was just taking our time twisting as not to bang up my hands lol
 

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blueninja said:
The starter was the first thing we replaced following CatFuzz direction. Took 30ish min and that was just taking our time twisting as not to bang up my hands lol
YES! Validation! :mrgreen:
 

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CatFuzz said:
blueninja said:
The starter was the first thing we replaced following CatFuzz direction. Took 30ish min and that was just taking our time twisting as not to bang up my hands lol
YES! Validation! :mrgreen:
I'll validate you too. I wish I had learned of your method before I did mine. I'm getting sick of my rattling exhaust. :(
 

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I'm not sure on a 1st gen Rodeo. I had a 1st gen Rodeo once but never had to change the starter.
 

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I'm getting started on the "snaking it through the wheel well" method today. I'm gonna take my time and probably spend half a week to be honest. I just spent about an hour removing one bolt cuz I'm drinking a beer, listening to music, and the old lady next door stopped to talk my head off. But I have successfully jacked the front end and located the mounts and starter which I was happy about because I'm no mechanic and this is one of the largest scale operations I've ever done on a vehicle. I usually stop at break pads. But I have the tools so what the hell. I ain't skeered. :)
 

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c4man said:
I'm getting started on the "snaking it through the wheel well" method today. I'm gonna take my time and probably spend half a week to be honest. I just spent about an hour removing one bolt cuz I'm drinking a beer, listening to music, and the old lady next door stopped to talk my head off. But I have successfully jacked the front end and located the mounts and starter which I was happy about because I'm no mechanic and this is one of the largest scale operations I've ever done on a vehicle. I usually stop at break pads. But I have the tools so what the hell. I ain't skeered. :)
8) Cool.
 

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Ok, so I have the engine raised about an inch and I have a couple questions that will truly give away how little of a carsmith I am. I am wondering about how far I am going to need to raise the engine and how the motor mount comes off. Are there more bolts or does it just slide off? And while I'm at it are the tops of the starter bolts facing the front end of the car and am I going to need a swivel or extension or what? So far I haven't had to buy any tools and I'm glad. I got this rodeo a few days ago and think I got slightly swindled, but other than the emergency brake( i fixed that) and this starter, the only other "serious" issue is that the transmission kind of jerks when downshifting from 2nd-1st. Any help would be very much appreciated. 99 v6 4x4 automatic. I also have a 96 manual 4x4 which has been the most amazing vehicle I've ever owned, but it has been beat to the end of it's life as a work truck and it burns a lot of oil.
 

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Raise the engine as far as it will go. If you still can't wiggle the starter out, the motor mount bracket will need to come off the engine and set aside (you can't get it out) IIRC, it's four bolts accessed through the wheel opening. The starter bolts go up into the engine block.
 
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Pftt, I can remove mine in 5 minutes tops....

But I'm 2WD.... Lol

just wanted to add to the pissing contest. :p
 

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So it turns out it was just the positive cable needed to be snugged down. I checked it before I did all the work but guess wiggling it with my hand wasn't enough of a test. I have another issue, the truck idles a tiny bit too high is there a way to manually lower the idle? I also have something from a mechanic saying it needs a new fuel tank pressure sensor, is this a hard fix?
 
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