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The engine, transmission and PCM wiring harnesses in the 2000 Trooper body are not in any way compatible with your 1999 Rodeo 3.2L engine and 4L30 transmission. You will need to rewire everything and replace a lot of connectors. You also need a 1999 PCM and place to mount it, in a 1999 Trooper/Rodeo the PCM was mounted under the dash above the center console. The PCM in 2000 Trooper is on the LH inner fender.

The 2000 Trooper PCM has two 80 Pin connectors, the 1999 Rodeo/Trooper PCM has three 32 pin connectors. The 2000 4L30e transmission has a 4 pin overdrive section connector and a 7 pin main case connector. The 1999 Rodeo/Trooper 4L30e has a 5 pin overdrive section connector and a 4 pin main case connector.

The bottom line is the 2000 Trooper PCM cannot control the 1999 Rodeo engine and 4L30e transmission so you will need install a 1999 Rodeo/Trooper PCM and rewire everything to produce a driveable vehicle.
 

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So I got to know ol' Larry at the salvage yard.
And they've got a 99 Trooper with wiring harness intact.
99 trooper.jpg

I'll be pulling it myself.
Up to now, I'm thinking I have to remove the dash.
Which looks like a big job.

Of course, there was another vehicle, a 96 Trooper.
Someone had already dispatched the dash and the harness was out and exposed.
96 trooper.jpg

Any insight if the 96 harness would work on a 99 ?
 

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Screenshot 2021-01-21 112236.jpg

Back at the salvage yard... on the '99 Trooper.
I was thinking that I needed all the engine compartment wiring harnesses for making the jump from '00 to '99 powertrain.
So, I pulled everything.

I did compare them once back at home.
passenger side harness (w/fuse and relay box) = appear to be really similar, if not the same
driver side harness = obviously different w/PCM connection but lots of similarities in engine bay

I hate to say it but I'm debating pulling the harness out of my '00. Rather, take apart the '99 harness and just install what's necessary. ??
Eh. It's temping but it would likely be sketchy.
R&R the harness is likely the safest bet.
 

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What is the craze with catalytic converters these days?
It seems like there's an underground movement to either steal or buy them...
And that appears to be the first to go at the salvage yard.

As such, when I bought the body, the only remaining part of the exhaust was from the muffler back.
Not sure if it was sold, stolen, or from the looks of it, chewed off by rats.

The budget took a hit on that one.
Screenshot 2021-01-29 095846.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The winter hibernation is coming to an end. About to resume with'99 harness install.
 

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Got my garage space back and moved trooper in.
Installed the '99 harness.
Going to set engine and see what happens.
ready for install.jpg

set.jpg


Just finished an entertaining time on another thread learning about exhaust fastener thread pitches.
See: 3.5 Exhaust Manifold Studs
 

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set in.jpg

Got the engine set.
Ok, so this is what I feel like trying to swap a '99 engine into a '00 body:
engine swap.jpg


Geez, just one difference after another. In the top image the a/c compressor was set off to the side. Whomever removed the engine did me a favor and left the system intact. HOWEVER, the '99 Rodeo engine uses a different compressor and mounting bracket. Ugh. The '99 compressor mounts with bolts from the side, whereas the '00 compressor bolts from the front.

Headed to the salvage yard. 2-hours and $5 later, I'm walking out with a '00 bracket. Fit right in.

The a/c compressor and PS pump are now installed.

However, cue Charlie Brown again...
I'm looking over the throttle body (TB) and notice yet another change. UGH!! So, it appears in '99 Isuzu was using a cable and in '00 they went to an electric actuator. I guess. I'm no expert but there ain't no throttle cable in this '00 Trooper and the '99 engine appears to want one.
Here's the '99 setup, what I got:
99 rodeo TBa.jpg


Here's what the workshop manual shows for the '00 (and the fact that there is no throttle cable):
00 trooper TBa.jpg


The workshop manual agrees with this conversion when looking at the accelerator pedal: '99 shows a cable, '00 shows an electrical sensor and no cable.
.
In summary, so far, the differences I've encountered on this swap:
- was a 3.5L, now a 3.2L
- 4L30E transmission different (pulse width modulation change)
- PCM different
- cabin/engine bay wiring harness'
- a/c compressor, mounting bracket, hoses
- throttle body / accelerator pedal cable electronic conversion

I'm guessing the '99 harness and PCM are not able to accept/control a TB actuator. If indeed, the above is correct.
As such, I appear to be headed back to the salvage yard to find a TB cable / accelerator pedal assembly.
 

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Screenshot 2021-08-27 084234.jpg

Ran into another change. The wiring harness running from fuse box & battery down to alternator uses a different terminal which plugs into the back of the alternator.
Snip snip, cross fingers, and match up primary wire colors. Interesting that the other two terminals mounted on the fender well didn't change.

Headed to salvage yard to track down a foot feed assembly...... accelerator pedal and cable.
 

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Screenshot 2021-08-28 075938.jpg

Meanwhile,.... back at the parts store.
Score.
Found a throttle cable and pedal assembly.
Installed.
Screenshot 2021-08-28 080943.jpg


As expected, yet another dilemma...
The '00 pedal has a sophisticated sensor, with multi-pin terminal.
The '99 pedal has a simple switch, with 2-pin terminal.
Eh.
Screenshot 2021-08-28 081908.jpg

In looking this over, the switch on the '99 pedal appears to only be actuated at the end of the pedal stroke (floored). I'm trying to figure out what the purpose of the switch would be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Just reading through workshop manual.
In the pedal replacement section it is referred to as the kick down switch.
 

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The KickDown Switch connects to the 1999 Trooper Powertrain Control Module (PCM) @ Pin F-11 as shown in the attached schematic.
Click on schematic to expand. It is part of the 4L30e Transmission shift control logic circuit.
 

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Screenshot 2021-08-31 102349.jpg

Drained fuel tank, refilled, and tested fuel pump- great flow.
Filled radiator with coolant and then saw this (yellow arrows).
Looking from underneath up at the a/c compressor. There's a steady drip coming from the gap (green arrow) between the block and the compressor mounting bracket. The bracket which I switched out. It had a different hole mounting pattern. I'm wondering now if one of those bolt holes used by the previous bracket, which is now open, was tapped through into a coolant galley.
I removed the fan/radiator but that compressor is so buried, it's nearly impossible to view.
It's a good thing the tranny isn't connected because it appears the engine is coming back out... ugh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Starting this project, I found a '99 engine & tranny on a pallet in a barn.
So, now that I've worked through most of the parts, I came upon this. Appears to be a body to frame ground strap.
However, I've looked through the Workshop Manual and the Isuzu Parts Center website but can't seem to find it.
Does anyone know if/where this is attached?
Bird Beak Wood Cormorant Feather
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
A thorough review of the ground points in the wiring diagram and I cannot find any grounding strap like this.
I'm going to conclude this was an aftermarket add-on from the PO. Discard....
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Here's the latest.
The engine came to life. That glosses over a lot but it is significant.
Car Wheel Tire Vehicle Hood


I wanted to start it up before anything else got installed. Just weird like that.
That journey is in a separate thread: Can you start engine w/o tranny installed?
.
The transmission is what I'm working on now. The issue I'm currently presented with is staring you in the face... the bell housing is damaged. The bottom corner on starter side (closer corner in this image) is bent (on cast aluminum...??) into where the flywheel will reside. You can follow that journey in a separate thread: 4L30E bellhousing repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Transmission fixed (sort of), installed, and rolled out for a brief start up.
I left the transfer case off, and, for now, didn't run fluid lines to the cooler. Rather, just made a temporary loop between the inlet and outlet. I filled the pan with ATF through the upper pan port. Once tranny checks out, I'll run lines to cooler, bring it up to temp, and complete the fill.
.
Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Vehicle Automotive side marker light

Good news and bad news.
Good news: the engine fired right up and the transmission wasn't screaming (no pump noise from a misaligned converter seal).
Bad news: once it ran for about a minute, I crawled under and shifted the mode selector. I observed the output shaft rotation. Out of park, I hit R and engine idle elevated slightly and shaft began to rotate in the same direction as engine (which I believe to be wrong). I shifted to N and shaft rotation slowed but continued, which I assume to be normal (TC fluid viscosity). I then shifted to D, and lower gears. The output shaft sped up and continued to rotate in the same direction.
So, there is no reverse.
Having re-wired the mode selector and re-pinned the connector, I'm guessing I missed something.
.
 
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