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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just purchased a 98 trooper 3.5 auto 4wd loaded up with a bad engine.....Getting ready to remove the engine. Do you have to remove the transmission also or will it come out with the Tranny and tf case in place? Thought that Google would have tons of answers but none at all!!!! Who makes good replacement parts for these engines? I have read up on the oil consumption issues and will most likely do a complete rebuild and want to install dependable parts and not have to remove her again for a while. I have access to a complete automotive machine shop however this will be my first 3.5 isuzu any advice, warnings, FYI's or just general things to look out for would be greatly Appreciated.
Thank you in advance
 

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You might want to drop the t case and pull the engine tranny and all !!!
It may be a tight fit without a body lift that way, but getting to the bolts is not fun !!!
I would get the motor put and tore down and inspected before to much Q and A !!!
It's alot to ingest all at once :).... Jlemon is the man to talk to about parts. Others will definitely chime in on engine precautions and modifications, such as drilling the pistons for more oil return etc.... Drop the power steering pump in the engine bay along with the ac pump. I believe it's the suggested easiest way...
 

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bcmorris said:
Just purchased a 98 trooper 3.5 auto 4wd loaded up with a bad engine.....Getting ready to remove the engine. Do you have to remove the transmission also or will it come out with the Tranny and tf case in place? Thought that Google would have tons of answers but none at all!!!! Who makes good replacement parts for these engines? I have read up on the oil consumption issues and will most likely do a complete rebuild and want to install dependable parts and not have to remove her again for a while. I have access to a complete automotive machine shop however this will be my first 3.5 isuzu any advice, warnings, FYI's or just general things to look out for would be greatly Appreciated.
Thank you in advance
SINCE THE TROOPER IS AN AUT0MATIC , DROP THE EXHAUST DOWN OUT OF THE WAY GO THRU THE STARTER HOLE WITH A LONG EXTENSION AND REMOVE THE 6 CONVERTOR BOLTS, TAKE A LONG EXT AND GO UP OVER THE TRANS CASE AND REMOVE THE TOP BELL HOUSING BOLTS AND THE ONES DOWN THE SIDE OF THE TRANS , REMOVE THE COOLER LINES FROM THE ENG BRACKET S , MARK THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS SO THAT THEY GO BACK IN THE SAME SPOT AS REMOVED REMOVE THE FRT LOWER DUST SHEILD FROM THE TRANS , PLACE A LONG BAR OR A 2X4 UNDER THE TRANS PAN IT CAN REST ON THE TORSION BARS AND HOLD THE TRANS UP., REMOVE THE FRT ENG MOUNT BOLTS FROM THE FRAME, DISCONNECT ALL WIRING CONNECTORS, AND HARNESS CONNECTOR,S REMOVE 2 REAR HTR HOSES TO FIRE WALL HOSES , BE CARE FULL AND DONT BREAK THE CONNECTORS TO THE HTR THEY ARE PLASTIC NOW LIFT THE ENG WITH A HOIST ABOUT 2 INCHES AND WIGGLE IT LOOSE FROM THE TRANS AND EASE IT FORWARD AND UP AND IT WILL COME RIGHT OUT, REMOVE THE HOOD FOR BETTER AND SAFER CLEARANCE . TAKES ABOUT AN HOUR AND A HALF TO GET THE ENG OUT AND ON A STAND , THEN THE FUN BEGINS. TAKE YOUR TIME AND TAKE A FEW PIX AND MARK EVERY THING YOU REMOVE .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks; JLEMOND and bradzuzu , 1.5 hours and on the stand Heck yes!!!!!!!!!!! you are the man!! I spent an hour just looking for the fuel line disconnect looks like the lines are on top of Transmission? I have everything disconnected except for the starter and fuel lines, ac compressor and ps pump and the exhaust is not removed, I just removed 6 nuts from manifolds I will get the crossmember out and drop the exhaust out of the way, great tip on the Converter bolts I spent about 30 min getting them out through the dust shield... I am trying to enjoy this project and am not in a huge hurry however the insight you have given has been a huge help!! This little truck looks like a rugged little guy, I am impressed with it so far and hope to have engine out soon. Thank you again
 

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Just what Jerry said with special emphasis one making sure the bell housing bolts are marked and go back where they came from. You put a longer bolt in the wrong place and you will break through to an oil or coolant passage in the engine. When you pull the heads, remove the bolts very gradually and in proper sequence. Many have broken head bolts or trashed blocks because they didn't follow the removal sequence. Also, removing the intake manifold helps get to the top bell housing bolts easier. It has to come off anyway.
 

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CatFuzz said:
Just what Jerry said with special emphasis one making sure the bell housing bolts are marked and go back where they came from. You put a longer bolt in the wrong place and you will break through to an oil or coolant passage in the engine. When you pull the heads, remove the bolts very gradually and in proper sequence. Many have broken head bolts or trashed blocks because they didn't follow the removal sequence. Also, removing the intake manifold helps get to the top bell housing bolts easier. It has to come off anyway.
MOST DEFINATELY REMOVE THE HEAD BOLTS IN THE REVERSE SEQUENCE OF TIGHTEN ING THEM, BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE THE HEAD BOLTS INSTALL THE 10 MM HEX BOLT REMOVER AND HIT IT A GOOD ONE WITH A HAMMER , THIS WILL SHOCK THE THREADS ENOUGH TO HELP LOOSEN THEM , IF THEY ARE STILL EXTREMLY TIGHT HIT THEM AGAIN OR THEY MAY BREAK, WHEN LOOSENING THEM UP IF THE WRENCH TRIES TO TWIST BACK ON YOU SMACK THEM AGAIN UNTIL THEY WILL TURN LOOSE
 

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JLEMOND said:
GO THRU THE STARTER HOLE WITH A LONG EXTENSION AND REMOVE THE 6 CONVERTOR BOLTS, TAKE A LONG EXT AND GO UP OVER THE TRANS CASE AND REMOVE THE TOP BELL HOUSING BOLTS AND THE ONES DOWN THE SIDE OF THE TRANS.
not to sound like a moron but how would the re-installation go, that sounds like a pita
 

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That's why I suggested pulling tranny and all.. since your going to go through the engine anyway, you can clean everything up all at once. The front section of exaust can stay attached to !!! It's easier to mark all the bellhousing bolts and get to the torque converter bolts. Just my opinion is all. I look at like why mess with tight quarters when you have a choice !!!
 

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Just a couple things since pulling my own 3.5 is still fresh (branded) on my mind.......................

Just pull the engine, leave the tranny in the car. PERSONALLY, I opted to just take the torque convertor bolts out thru the inspection plate. I left the starter on the engine when i pulled mine. Going thru the starter hole was too tight and more of a headache than I wanted to deal with. Of course to get those bolts out thru the access plate, you'll HAVE to buy a 17mm ZERO-OFFSET wrench. Don't question, just go get it!!! What Jerry said on hitting the head bolts to shock them is a REQUIREMENT!!! Those bolts tend to seize in the aluminum block and they will break off (ask me how I know that to be true!) I used a long center pin punch and a ball pein hammer when I did mine. (on the second engine that is!) You have a couple bolts on the back of the AC compressor that are a b*tch to get to. I wound-up jacking up the front drivers side wheel, removing the wheel, taking the gap seal out, removing the bolt to the steering shaft and moving the shaft out of the way

If you are going to correct the oil consumption issue, make sure you drill the pistons properly. If you have any ??? on that, Jerry can answer. If he's busy, just let me know and I have the pic he sent me to show where the holes go. My SLX was drinking oil before it died. Since the rebuild, it hasn't used a drop in 2 oil changes and runs great! The 3.5 rebuild itself is simple, but getting it out was definitley a learning curve for me. No other engine I have ever pulled was that aggrevating. Now that I done it, doing it again isn't a big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
sasee, Thank you for the advice I am going out this am to get that ac compressor off. I hope to have her on the stand this afternoon. :? I picked up a core engine from the J-yard yesterday as they were about to crush the trooper.. seeing the engine out of the truck and having a chance to look at all the mounting locations was a big help in attacking the last little bit. I did remove the intake to gain better access to the Trans bolts. Thanks again for all the heads up on this project I know you guys have already saved me tons of mistakes..and $$$$$$$ THANK YOU! :D
 

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I'm just taking into consideration a person that's learning by doing .... Yes it is more weight and a little more dangerous/ocward .... Not everyone has all the long extensions amd proper tools....Nor the money to spend ... I don't make it a habit to pull both parts when doing engines typically... Mainly it's situation based... I'm not nockin anyones method by no means ...!!
 

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What year is that core??? If it is a 2000 (or was it 2001???) and up, you'll have to drill and tap a hole to install the spark knock sensor. the 98's have a sensor in the top of the block for the spark knock and it has to be in and hooked up for the 98 computer. it's not an issue, just make sure there is a hole for the sensor. Drilling the pistons is easy also. When you are at that stage, just let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Out and On the Stand at last!! :lol: What a Nightmare!! I ended up cutting the Exhaust out as all bolts from the Cats back were major rust. Removed Transfer Case and pulled Transmission and all... Oil Pan had to come off and Filter adapter on front of engine.. I thought I was going to have to remove the Core Support to get it out :evil: I decided as much trouble as this guy is I will go through the transmission also I don't want to see that thing again for a long time after this is over.... I got Bags and Bags of hardware, the Driveway-garage looks like a Bomb went off and several cross member bolts broke as well as one hood hinge bolt, I think I only damaged one sensor plug on the Front Differential. This Guy is a Acura SLX if that makes any difference now LOL!!! :lol: The Core Is From a 98 trooper. I saw what killed this engine when I removed the oil pan and revealed a pick up Stopped up with what appears to be Stop Leak that Leaked into the Oil From Someone Trying to put a band aid on a Blown head gasket or some water leak into the oil. Purchased it knowing It had been ran hot as they had about $1200 worth of parts and labor where they replaced a radiator water pump, timing belt, thermostat.......... all to reveal water in the oil and I guess they just filled her full of stop leak and plugged her up......... More in a few days I will be back on the project next week. Thanks again everyone :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Got the Core engine apart and everything will go back together standard. The Block Crank and Rods look Like new!! Lots of sludge but the Bearings all had the factory machine marks in them and the cyl all had cross hatch remaining 360* top to bottom... The Oil Rings were a real mess and were solid carbon caked and not functional at all. However that was nothing new for these 3.5's with 4 drain back holes per piston. I need some advice on where to add the oil holes and the best parts source for this engine. I have noticed that there are several places that sale parts and figured you guys had the hook up on quality and Price....?. I didnt see anything wrong with the oil pump but if they have a history of failure or something then by all means I want to replace it however they are part of the pan-front cover and I worry about the quality of aftermarket parts being a bigger failure concern than reuseing the factory pump. Timing belt and idler-tensioner parts quality are a concern also. Please chime in if you have some experience with these engines and let me know what is the best choice. I know factory parts are very high quality and are my first choice but WOW!! you can buy a used engine for what it cost to rebuild it just in parts. Some questions are as follows:
-MLS Head gaskets and new cyl head bolts what is the best and what should I stay away from?
-Oil Pump Let it go again or replace it with what brand?
-Timing belt and Idlers tensioner and water pump kit... what works best?
-Pistons Need more oil return holes....... where u guys been drilling them, how many, how big?
_-Torque specs on the bottom end and Cyl Heads ...I cant find anyone who sales a book on the 3.5 ??
Thank you sooooooooo much for your help.....also if anyone ever breaks a head bolt off in a block I will send you a tool to get it out!!!! dont scrap the block!!!
 

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You could either talk to jlemon for parts,and or source some of the parts (felpro gaskets). Your planning on rebuilding the tranny as well ???
Mainly you need rings gaskets and head bolts correct ?? The bearings looked good ?
 

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I can get engine parts pretty cheap for most stuff....rings and bearings, head bolts (along with gaskets, thrust washer) for this motor, I can get for under $300, shipped....Don't know if that'll help or not.
 

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Hey Rhodes I have a spare 99 3.2 with a spun rod bearing crank took the brunt of it. What kind of deal can you get on a crank ??? Would it be a reground or STD ???
 

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That crank's almost $500 ($484 I think, plus shipping). Keep in mind I'm not selling this stuff, I'm just quoting prices from the wholesaler I use. It'd be standard (new), but stuff like that, they have to buy from the dealer, so the price isn't good. Rockauto sells one (a polished reman, I'm sure, also in standard) for under $300, plus a $50 core and about $20 in shipping, around $370 to your door. Probably the best deal you'll find unless you hit a salvage yard, or find something on craigslist you can pillage (while praying the crank is in good shape). I can call Monday, and see if they have a better price than they show online....sometimes they do, but I wouldn't count on any huge savings, maybe as much as 15% or so.

Brad, how bad is that crank? You can get .025 and .050 rod bearings for that motor, are you sure that won't clean it up? And taking the crank down that far really won't make much difference in strength. Seems otherwise, but it won't. And $30 for bearings plus whatever the machinist gets for grinding the crank is a helluvalot better than nearly $400.
 

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Isuzu doesn't do the .10 .20 .30 grind bearings ?? Ive read that the 3.5's dont do well being turned is that true ?? I'm thinking of building a stroker with my extra engine.... As far as my crank goes I think it would need atleast 20 thou to clean it up.
 

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bradzuzu said:
Isuzu doesn't do the .10 .20 .30 grind bearings ?? Ive read that the 3.5's dont do well being turned is that true ?? I'm thinking of building a stroker with my extra engine.... As far as my crank goes I think it would need atleast 20 thou to clean it up.
THE REASON THEY DONT DO WELL BEING REGROUND IS THEY ARE CAST IRON CRANKS , AND DEFINATELY WILL BREAK IF THEY ARE WELDED ON.
 
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