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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought I'd provide a write-up covering my installation of aftermarket 6.5 inch speakers as a replacement for the odd-sized OEM units in the doors of my 1998 Rodeo S. Unlike later 2nd Gen Rodeos, the 98's (mine is an S 4x4 model) come with these strange square-sided 5.5" diameter factory speakers with 6" diagonal mounting holes mounted in the front doors. (The doors are also fitted with separate 1" tweeters, so the stock setup is a component set-up.) The door panels are molded to fit these odd square-sided speakers, so some mods look to be required to fit anything aftermarket in these door speaker pods. I've read on here that some have gone with 5.25" speakers and others have gone with 6.5"s. My objective is a stealth install, keeping the stock door speaker grills - upper & lower.

After taking some measurements and noting the geometry of the molded pods, and comparing it to key dimensions of available 5.25 and 6.5 speakers, I decided to go for 6.5s as replacements. I chose a set of 6.5" 2-way component speakers, specifically JL Audio's Evolution model TR650-CSi, which I found a great deal on.

While 5.25s will fit within the molded recesses in the pod, their frame mounting holes don't line up with the molded-in mounting holes. To fit these, others seem to either rig an extension or washer-setup to reach out to the 6" center molded mounting holes, or just create new speaker frame mounting holes with the recessed area.

6.5" speakers on the other hand have frame mounting holes that match up perfectly with the molded mounting holes, but they won't fit within the squared-off molded recess that the OEM speakers do. To fit these, it seems others either mod the molded door pod to either hog out or eliminate the squared-off recess to fit the speaker, or use the raised landing area above the speaker recess within the pod to mount the speakers.

My install uses the latter option - but with it you're still faced with a a choice of two mods because when the speaker mounting holes are aligned, the top edge of the circular speaker frame exceeds the outermost molded inset of the pod. So I decided to use tin snips to trim the upper edge of my speaker frames to fit the molded inset. (The alternative is to cut a slot along the edge of the top landing area in the pod the allow the intact speaker frame to extend beyond it's molded edge.)

Also, because this install option uses the raised landing area in the pod to mount the speaker against, it brings the front edge of the speaker, and the speaker's cone surround, 1/2" or so inward, creating the potential for it hitting the insides of the stock speaker grill. So I also modded the insides of the stock speaker grills, using a Dremel to remove 1/8-3/16" of raised plastic to prevent any such contact. (In fact, I believe its so tight, that coaxial 6.5" speakers may have so much interference between their raised tweeter modules and the grill that they may prohibit use of the stock grills.) One advantage of using this mounting is it increases the space behind the speaker, improving the ability to use full-depth speakers with larger magnets.

The other installation diffs versus the stock set-up that I made were the necessary longer speaker mounting screws and the change-out of the factory speaker wiring connector for standard speaker spade connectors.

See the attached pics below for further details. Overall I think the install went quickly and straightforward, I knew the mods I needed to do in advance, and it only took me 1.5 hours to get it done once I started the disassembly. I'm very happy with the results - the new front mains really make a big difference.

Hope this installation write-up is helpful to anyone else looking to do this to their rig in the future.

Tom (aka visionaut)

Pic#1 -- The stock speaker grill are easy to remove with a screwdriver in the provided slot. Just pry to pop them out. They're friction fit on one side, with slotted tabs on the other.


Pic#2 -- The crazy square-sided, stock 5.5" speakers. Why do manufacturers use this oddball stuff? OEM speaker is rated at 4ohm, 15 watts.


Pic#3 -- The molded-in speaker pod in the door. Note the squared-cornered recessed area the stock speaker mounts into, with it's mounting holes at the corners, and the raised landing area that surrounds it within the pod. My 6.5s will sit flush against this landing, bringing it inward approx. 1/2". I'll reuse the mounting holes with longer screws, and I will trim the speaker frame along the top edge to fit the constrained, non full 3.25" radius edge of the landing there.


Pics#4&5 -- Comparing the stock speakers to the 6.5s.
Face-on view: You can see the mounting holes on the corners of the stock speaker align with holes on the frame of the 6.5. Note also the one edge (lower left in this pic) of the 6.5 speaker frame that's been trimmed with a tin-snip to be able to fit inside and up against the top edge of the landing area inset in the door speaker pod.
Side view: Notice the increased depth, larger magnet, and wider frame of the 6.5 vs the stock speaker. Also note the bent spades on the new speaker, necessary to fit it within the pod's speaker hole. Mmmm... - lovin' that new injection-molded, mica-filled, polyprop cone, 1" voice coil and rubber surrounded goodness...



Pic#6 -- Comparing the Dremel-shaved and stock speaker grills. The raised edges and grill slats all around the inside of the grill area are ground flush to provide clearance with the speaker surrounds when assembled. I also took a bit off the top edge of the grill to provide space where it could meet the trimmed speaker edge. Neither of these mods is visible from the outside once the grill is installed.


Pic#7 -- The JL Audio 6.5" mains in place, attached using the longer mounting screws. I cut off the factory speaker connector, and fit female spade connectors to attach to the new speakers (blue wire = +, yellow wire = -). Notice the fit of the trimmed upper edge of the speaker frame.


Pic#8 -- Installation complete. Modified grills in place for a nice stealth look. Note the 6.5s are perfectly centered in the grill openings. Time to rock!


Again, hope this is useful!!!
 

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Nice write up. I did basically the same thing with my Infinity Kappas.

I will have to post some pics of the Pioneer tweeters I installed in the stock locations. Well kindof, I dremmeled out the tweeter grill and flush mounted the new tweeters. They made a huge difference, as well as the Alpine head unit.

I wish there was a better (read bigger) option for the rear factory mounts.

Joe
 

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I've been thinking of replacing my speakers for a long time. The speakers in the drivers side buzz alot if there is some bass in the music, I think its the tweeter. Pretty sure there isnt a cross over to block the low range to them. Now I can actually see what needs to be done to use 6.5" speakers, thanks!

I tried replacing the tiny rear 4" speakers with better ones and it still sounded bad. I ended up disconnecting them and using 6x9's in some cheap walmart 'assemble yourself' boxes.



Not the best placement for sound but they are out of the way and stay put. They arent attached to anything, just sit there and even on really bumpy trails they stay put. Helped alot at getting some bass.
 

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Hey Gizmo, are you running those 6x9's just off the deck, or do you have an amp hooked up to them?
 

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http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic ... x9+install

this is a thread about installing 6x9's in the roof of the 2nd gen rodeo - in the rear factory spots, you have to raise the panel to fit them but I have always liked this.

the pics don;t link anymore - but maybe try a pm
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
anivek said:
just curious, how much did you get the jl speakers for?
Got the 6.5 JL Evolution components set for $99. Hard to beat... ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The Polk 4"s sound awesome in the factory above the door location.

Nice complement to the front speakers...

Tom
 

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Josh93Rodeo said:
Hey Gizmo, are you running those 6x9's just off the deck, or do you have an amp hooked up to them?
Just running off the deck. I tapped into the factory speaker wires for the rear 4" ones. I know I could make it sound better with all new wire and an amp but I just care about having music LOL.
 

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great write up.

thanks. this is exactly how it goes for my 99 passport.
 

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also, being a component. did you hae to do anything special for the tweeter and crossovers?

how is window placement. does the window hit the magnet when rolled down all the way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks!

The JL Audio components come with a crossover circuit to wire between the tweeters and the mains. The stock component set-up between the door tweeter and the original main looks to have a simple in-line crossover to limit the frequencies sent to the tweeter.

No issues with the window regarding the clearance with the magnets on the new mains. While the new speakers are definitely deeper, the depth increase is offset by the 1/2" or so inset of the speaker frame gained by mounting it on the stepped landing area vs. the original molded speaker recess.

Tom
 

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visionaut said:
The Polk 4"s sound awesome in the factory above the door location.

Nice complement to the front speakers...

Tom
For all of us canadians Princess Auto had these in 4.5" for $16 and are 120 watt max. I put a set in last week-end
 

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I just finished installing my new front speakers. I have the same ones as visionaut (wasnt planned but I like JL Audio speakers). I did a few things slightly different. Instead of cutting my new speakers I went with slotting the panel along the top of the speaker. Cant be seen and doesnt hurt anything. I also notched along the bottom where I put the connections to make sure they fit easily. I also used the longer screws that JLA provided but they were slightly too long, so I used my metal nibbler to notch the door to clear them and the make sure the connections wouldnt short out. I did use the dremil to clearance the factory speaker grills though.

For the tweeters I did like Joe did and cut out the factory grills and mounted the new ones there.

Its so nice to have front speakers again! And these JLs sound great. Cant wait for the matching JL Audio 6x9s I ordered for the rear to get here, guess they are on back order.
 

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Are these aftermarket speaker installations sounding pretty good ? Like what the new dodge avenger's stock systems are sounding like (at least I was pretty impressed) or even VW bug's stock systems pound pretty good too... really rich. I think the stock speakers in the rodeo's sound alright with a good receiver/amp installed... but is it really quite the boost of audio quality with these aftermarket door speaker installations in the rodeo? Are the acoustics of the door mounts worth it for paying for all new door speakers? :)
 

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Dont know if they sound as good as those others, never heard any of them, hard to match speakers made and tuned for a specific car that they charge you $1k for. They do however sound a hell of alot better then blown factory isuzu speakers LOL.
 

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Got my 6x9s for the rear and installed them today.

WOW!

I have bass now! The Pioneer 6x9s I had were pretty good but the JL Audios sound soooo much better. The 6x9s arent as loud as I thought they would be though being the same model as the 6.5" fronts. I had the fader set to R2 with the pioneers and have it at R3 with the JLAs, really need a R3.5. They sound alot cleaner though.
 

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Gizmo42 said:
Got my 6x9s for the rear and installed them today.

WOW!

I have bass now! The Pioneer 6x9s I had were pretty good but the JL Audios sound soooo much better. The 6x9s arent as loud as I thought they would be though being the same model as the 6.5" fronts. I had the fader set to R2 with the pioneers and have it at R3 with the JLAs, really need a R3.5. They sound alot cleaner though.
PICS!!!!!

Chase

DUH, these are in boxes..... forgot...
 

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I put Infinity Reference components in the front of my '98 Amigo. I trimmed the back so they sat deeper, at the depth the OEM speaker sat. I think I used foam baffles on those too.

I originally got Polk components, but they were nowhere near fitting. Exchanged them for the Infinities. I hate having to do irreversible mods to vehicles for speaker mounting, but I stooped to doing it this time. I also trimmed out the factory tweeter grill to flush-mount the Infinity tweeters.

I borrowed a pair of Infinity Kappas from my 1st Gen for the Amigo's rear speakers, those dropped right in. Ended up leaving them in when I sold it. So now my 1st Gen has Infinity Kappas up front, and Polk dB in the back.

I really need to get my sub wired back in. I opted for a truck box for my 10" sub (JL Audio), much easier to pack gear around the slimmer wedge shape. Can lay it flat, put it sideways, whatever. Nice for the Amigo especially, not a whole lot of cargo space. The slimmer box limits your sub choices though.
 
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