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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am knee deep in the process of swapping the 4L30e, which only has 1st gear, with an AR5. When we pulled the flex plate for the automatic, there was a spacer between the plate and the crank mounting surface. Do I need to reuse this spacer when mounting the flywheel?

Thanks
Gavin
 

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Interesting, it was behind the flex plate? That's not right. Check out page 1 of my swap thread. It goes behind the bolts on the front (face) of the flex plate/flywheel per the Factory Service Manual and Jerry Lemond confirmed this with me as well. It is the same part between the manual and the automatic.
 

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I can confirm that as well, there should be no spacer between the crankshaft and flywheel/flex plate. The small washer/spacer goes under the bolt heads, on top of the flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I sourced some FW bolts from Jerry and am eager to get this back together.

While waiting for the bolts, I decided to make the clutch line. I know that the M/C and slave are M12x1.0 inverted flare but what tube diameter are they? I made it out of 3/16 and it looks like the flare really doesn't seat in the M/C correctly. Are the original lines 1/4" (6.3mm)?

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Gavin
 

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I bought a 3/16 x 30" hard line when I was going to make mine but never ended up making it. I found a used oem one to use. A lot of people just make a new out of braided stainless though so that's also an option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The braided hose is an option but some of my reading make it seem like it leads to a "mushy" feel for the clutch. Of course, I have no experience here. I do like the idea of being able to replace the hose with a stock replacement though.
 

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Hose with stainless braid leads to mushy clutch feel? That's counter-intuitive...
Less hose expansion due to braided outer layer should lead to sharper and better clutch pedal feedback...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was able to get a 1/4" line from O'Reilly that worked great for the clutch.

We installed the tranny this weekend and the bottom 2 bolt holes in the transmission don't meet up to anything on the block!? Is this normal? The 4L30 just had a thin sheet metal cover in this location but what is the best course of action here? Does the MUA5 also have a block off plate at this location?

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Gavin
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was able to get a 1/4" line from O'Reilly that worked great for the clutch.

We installed the tranny this weekend and the bottom 2 bolt holes in the transmission don't meet up to anything on the block!? Is this normal? The 4L30 just had a thin sheet metal cover in this location but what is the best course of action here? Does the MUA5 also have a block off plate at this location?

Thanks
Gavin
 

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Not sure about MUA-5 mating with 6VE1, as it's been a while since I saw one from underneath, but the situation you describe is pretty normal for MUA-5 mated to my 4JG2.
 

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Mnot said:
I was able to get a 1/4" line from O'Reilly that worked great for the clutch.

We installed the tranny this weekend and the bottom 2 bolt holes in the transmission don't meet up to anything on the block!? Is this normal? The 4L30 just had a thin sheet metal cover in this location but what is the best course of action here? Does the MUA5 also have a block off plate at this location?

Thanks
Gavin
Which bolt holes are we talking about. Are you talking about the bigger bolts that secure the bell housing to the block, or the smaller ones for the dust shield?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The very bottom bolts that are just barely higher than the bottom of the oil pan. On the 4L30 they held a thin piece of sheet metal which is what needed to be removed to access the flex plate bolts. As it is now, it looks like I have 7 bolts that mount the bellhousing to the block (all are M12). Does this seem right?

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G
 

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Mnot said:
The very bottom bolts that are just barely higher than the bottom of the oil pan. On the 4L30 they held a thin piece of sheet metal which is what needed to be removed to access the flex plate bolts. As it is now, it looks like I have 7 bolts that mount the bellhousing to the block (all are M12). Does this seem right?

Thanks
G
Sorry for the late reply, yeah seven or eight seems right. If you look on page 3 of my swap page, Buster attached a diagram of the bolt configuration. I had to cut that bottom access panel and flatten it to make it work with the AR5. Th original access panel had 4 bolts iirc and after I modified it there are only 2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I can confirm that the '96 factory crossmember and the factor auto tranny mount work with the AR5. I used the forward holes of the mount to move the mount backward and the crossmember bolts up with no fuss. FYI: the curved cut out in the crossmember is facing forward.

Gavin
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I engaged the throw-out bearing and attached the slave. I then tightened everything down, added fluid to bleed the system. Gravity bleed took a little while but once it got going, it did fine. The issue I am having now is that the pedal goes to the floor and stays there!?! What am i missing?

-gavin
 

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I'd say first check for leaks around the m/c and s/c, also check the fire wall behind the clutch pedal for any discoloration or fluid there. If it all looks good you may have to just keep bleeding, may still be air trapped in the line. Also, you might try bleeding it the old fashioned way. Mine was kind if a pain to bleed. I just read another method where you can remove the slave cylinder and manually pump it to push out any air. Heres a link...
https://www.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=80414
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Dylan came over and we did the pump a million times, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, repeat. It seems to have worked. The truck isn't drivable yet, but we will see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Does anyone have the correct torque for the bellhousing bolts that go into the aluminum block? I don't want to over do it. They are M12 bolts.

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Gavin
 

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This chart is for AR5, note some are in inch pounds. Make sure to use the correct length bolt in each hole.
Click image to expand
 

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