[tkw829]

As mentioned in the subject, I have a 1996 rodeo and here is the problem I'm having:

I purchased an amplifier, stereo and speakers to redo the stock sound system. Everything pretty much works fine except when I do a sudden acceleration of the vehicle. When I do this, the voltage meter drops to around 12V and the amplifier drops the volume of the music(music also becomes distorted temporarily). I have had all the wiring inspected several times over with no problems found. I installed a capacitor with no luck. I replaced the battery with no change in the problem. I had the alternator tested and it passed with flying colors. The only thing I've come across that seems to be related is the behavior of the alternator during sudden acceleration. There is apparently a feature in the rodeo where the computer? drops the voltage output of the alternator during acceleration to reduce load on the system. From what I could find out about this feature, the voltage is not supposed to drop below ~12.8V. My guess is that maybe after all the wear (120,000 miles), the drop is no longer at 12.8V but might be lower. I have no idea how to fix that if that is the problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[bigpoppax2]

It really shouldn't do that in my opinion. If you need to replace it, you need to not replace it with an autozone or advance auto alt. They are junk.

Get a factory replacement or one from Napa.

 

[Christo]

I recently had a similar problem. I drive a 1996 RODEO LS 3.2l.

One day my "No Chrage" light lit on. The weird thing is that it did not lit with it's full potential and also the parking brake light which is located right next to it also lit up with half of its potential. Also, when driving my voltage indicator showed around 8volts. So I took down the alternator (60 amps) and disassembled it. The diode assembly was dead, which ment that the alternator has been giving alternative current to the system for the period between when the diode assembly had burned out and me noticing the "No charge Light".

SO, I went and bought a new 70 amp alternator and put it in. Car starts and when idling the volatgemeter is at arounf 14 volts which is normal. Now, here comes the weird part. The "No-charge" and "Parking Brake" lights are still on with only half of their lighting power, plus now when I am driving the vehicle and go over 2000-2100 rpm the voltagemeter drops down to 12 volts, which basically means that the alternator is not charging. The really wierd part is that if I switch the headlights ON, the two dashboard lamps go out and when I drive and go over 2000 rpm the voltagemeter stays at 14volts.

Now my father is sure that it is a weak connection in the wiring somewhere and swears that he will fix the problem for less than an hour if he has the proper wiring diagrams. I have a Haynes repair manual for my model, but my father says that not only is it not detailed enough, but the wiring diagrams is actually wrong in it. I tried to look for the factory repair manual around the city (btw I live in Calgary, Alberta, Canada), but no one sells it, or wants to give me the wiring diagrams. Everyone is happy to spend a couple fo hours fixing it on the other hand (I am refering to the so called stealerships).

So if any of you guys has had a similar problem or has the factory repair manual and is willing to photocopy it and send me the wiring diagrams I will be greatly thankfull and will make sure to write down a detailed describtion of how I have fixed the problem.

Christo

PS: The other day a new thing happened, the heater fan didn't want to start. SO I tried the old technique, I switched my headlights ON and there you go, the fan started. After that I got even more sure that it's a loose conenction somewhere, but only if I knew where!!!

 

[bigpoppax2]

Clean your battery terminals and check and clean all of your grounds. There is a ground that attaches to the frame just under the battery. There are other grounds like one from the engine to the frame and engine to the body. Take them off and use some sandpaper of a file and clean to bare metal and then put a dab of copper antiseize then bolt it back up.

That shoud take care of your ghost lights.

 

[96badrodeo]

I've been having this same problem, except it was for about 7 or 8 months, with everything on it would go down a little below half, and then above idle and driving, it would usually go up. I have white face gauges in my 96, so I dont know if the middle is the same as it should be on the stock gauge... My alt crapped out today for good.. (no matter what, the truck should run when you pull the battery cable off, right?). It was a rebuilt I bought 2 years ago, and now it crapped out. Im bringing it to some guy tomorrow to have him take a look at it, I hope he can fix it! Good Luck!
kevin

 

[lowzone]

ok, my Rodeo did the same thing. At idle, its at 14v then when i accelorate, it dropped to around 12.5/13 BUT when i turn the lights on, it stayed at 14 no matter what. Read the owners manual so i found out. There is a part about the charging system shutting down to help gain HP and less drag on the motor when charging isnt necessary. This is mentioned in another post, where i found out about the owners manual explaining this. Now with a larger radio system in the truck, it might not recognize the increase in amps pulled. Try driving with your lights on while having the system bumping, see if it drops then. You might also try a capacitor for the system to store up some energy while driving
Good luck
Ron