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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone tell me where the oil pump is located and how difficult it might be to change? My oil pressure gauge starts out at 40 psi or so when first started, but drops off to about 5 psi after reaching operating tempature :(
 

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But your oil pressure issue may not be due to a faulty pump.
You indicate that the pump builds pressure when cold (thicker oil),
that may be a sign that the pump is OK, but you have problems down stream.

Main bearings, rod big end bearings cam shaft bearings etc.

Have you had a recent oil and filter change?
 

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Unless you plan on rebuilding the engine, I wouldn't recommend going through the hassle and expense of replacing the oil pump. Like CalG said, your low oil pressure could be due to worn rod and main bearings. New oil pumps are a couple hundred bucks and you have to drop the oil pan to change it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did recently change the oil, about a week ago. I used Castrol High Mileage 10W/30 with half a quart of Lucas Oil Stabalizer with a new oil filter. It didnt do much anything for my pressure issue, it showed about the same as before the oil change.

It doesnt smoke or leak any oil either and idles and drives just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
vzfox said:
I did recently change the oil, about a week ago. I used Castrol High Mileage 10W/30 with half a quart of Lucas Oil Stabalizer with a new oil filter. It didnt do much anything for my pressure issue, it showed about the same as before the oil change.

It doesnt smoke or leak any oil either and idles and drives just fine.
Well, seems I probbly wont attempt to do this alone in my house garage lol. I just wasnt sure if it was as simple as a oil pan drop, few bolts that hold pump on and put pan back on kinda thing.

Im afraid to run too thick of oil for the reason of, if the pump is weak by chance I dont want to make it go completely out by having oil so thick in the morning at first start up that it cant pump it. I just need something that will thicken the oil at operating tempature, but not at start up.....make sense?
 

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You're not the first to have this problem. I saw one listed on C/L with the same trouble and the guy said he'd been driving it like that for 2 years with no problems at all. There have been a few others to have this issue as well, all stated that the rig ran fine and did not burn oil or leak it.

This begins to sound like a faulty oil pressure sender or wiring to the gauge rather than a mechanical issue.
 

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the pressure starts out high on mine and drops low when it warms up too... but when mine drops the motor has already started ticking. my thought (which I am working on proving) is that the valvetrain is what is causing this on mine. I just got the new parts in last night and will be working to close it all up tonight. then I can run it and see if it is quiet and the pressure stays up. Check out my build thread to see the motor torn apart... you can actually see where the oil pump is on the front of the motor in one of the pics..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was wondering....would it be safe or even considered to run an engine cleaner thru it? Just a typical engine cleaner you can buy at any auto parts house. My truck has 209k miles on it.

I have heard both yes and no about doing it....I was just hoping it might clean all the oil ports and rods and such and make the oil pump better to places that need it. I need some honest opinions, cuz if it makes matters worse I dont have the money to have a motor dropped in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
dman4486 said:
the pressure starts out high on mine and drops low when it warms up too... but when mine drops the motor has already started ticking. my thought (which I am working on proving) is that the valvetrain is what is causing this on mine.
But do you think a simple engine cleaner would clean and clear the valve train body to pump better oil to that area?
 

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no... don't think it will make any difference. I tried the flush in mine... Best thing I ever did to mine was running Rotella oil. Cleaned out the varnish quite nicely and handles the tick and oil pressure until ready to be changed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
dman4486 said:
no... don't think it will make any difference. I tried the flush in mine... Best thing I ever did to mine was running Rotella oil. Cleaned out the varnish quite nicely and handles the tick and oil pressure until ready to be changed.
I did a little bit of reading up on the Rotella T 15W 40 oil...it seems it may be my best way increase my oil pressure at operating temps without spending a couple grand for a new motor. I live in Dallas TX, so the tempature here isnt going to get cold enough to cause the oil to get "sludgy". I am currently running Castrol High Mileage 10W 30 with half a quart of Lucas oil stabalizer.

Good idea to change?
 

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also... after putting the first dose of Rotella in.. the oil turned black in about 100 miles. had to change it. Then black again around 500 miles. Now I get about 2000 before it goes black. but the inside of my motor (since I had it apart this past week) looks really clean compared to how it was previously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
dman4486 said:
also... after putting the first dose of Rotella in.. the oil turned black in about 100 miles. had to change it. Then black again around 500 miles. Now I get about 2000 before it goes black. but the inside of my motor (since I had it apart this past week) looks really clean compared to how it was previously.
So you dont contribute any of the clean engine to the engine flush you did, only the rotella oil? I will probably do an oil change to the rotella 15/40 in a couple weeks, unless anyone else posts a better stratagy.
 

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If you do the 15w you can buy it in 2.5 gallon jugs at Sams and the 5w you can get at Wal Mart. I'm in OKC so about the same climate and use the 5w but think at least for non winter you can get by with 15w.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
vanduker said:
If you do the 15w you can buy it in 2.5 gallon jugs at Sams and the 5w you can get at Wal Mart. I'm in OKC so about the same climate and use the 5w but think at least for non winter you can get by with 15w.
But do you have an oil pressure issue...like stated earlier in this post, mine goes from 40psi or so at cold start up to 5psi or so at operating tempature. When at idle, in drive at stop light....my oil light will flicker (i do have a factory gauge on it also)
 

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if you try to clean the engine , maybe pour in some seafoam before oil change, i would say about 10~20 miles before change the oil. that would clean up the engine pretty well and I've done it few times, and I also have used rotella T 15W40, 10W30, 5W40. I just feel this engine will run on any oil, right now I just use the cheap mobil 5000 oil... but I will go back to rotella 15W40 this summer
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ok, been a while since last post here i know but this is what i did.....i changed the oil using Rotella T1 SAE 30 straight grade. If you havent been keeping up, my oil pressure starts at 45'ish psi and drops to about 5psi when warm.

I chose Rotella based on a few opinions here. I chose straight grade 30 because I do not want the oil to change grades as it gets warmer.

So far, it starts at about 40psi when cold and still drops to the 5-10psi mark when warm idling. I have yet to find or talk to anyone about an oil grade that will best fit my needs to keep my oil pressure above 10psi at least when it gets warm. Im still afraid to go to a really thick oil for the reasoning of too much "sludgish" oil at a cold start up, possibly causing the oil pump to stress and burn out before it can pump the thick oil anywhere.

Im still looking for suggestions and comments, and all is considered. My engine is the 3.2L V6 with 210k miles (keep that in mind). thanx.
 
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