[Tentin]

After years of canyon carving sports cars I decided to start looking for a truck for a little quarantine project for me and the girlfriend. Filtered my search to require a manual transmission and 4WD, and stumbled upon this sweet little truck with 130k miles, decided to check it out, and instantly fell in love. Since this is my first dive into the 4x4 world I'd like to take my time to learn the truck instead of just running straight for a lift and tires and calling it a day.

Failed CA smog on the first try due to high NO levels. Noticed that all the vacuum lines were cracked and even some were dangling so I replaced those and passed on my free retest the next day. Still don't really understand them as they don't match the diagram under the hood, seems like it's all been touched before.

Girlfriend replaced her first set of spark plugs with my supervision. She's still working on her righty-tighty's and lefty-looseys but otherwise did a great job.

Also replaced the stock blown shocks with $12 Gabriel Proguards from rockauto and it's a world of difference. It was borderline scary to drive on the freeway before.

 

[Tentin]

Girlfriend was feeling ambitious and replaced rear diff, transmission, and transfer case fluid. Says that used gear oil is one of the worst smells ever haha.

 

[SRN]

Cool project! I've always said that you need to drive what you've got to learn what you need; so good plan not to dive right into lifts and such.

 

[Tentin]

Exactly. One of the first things I'd like to get my hands on is a limited slip for the rear. Doing my research and it seems like the G80 from a junkyard Rodeo might work and there's roughly 15 of them within a 50 mile radius according to pick-n-pull's website. Just gotta make sure it's compatible.

 

[Enemigo]

Hey welcome to the site and the sport. Pretty cool to have new blood.

 

[itsmehb]

Might just have to change that tranny and transfer case oil again if you put 80/90 gear oil in. At least the Troopers take engine oil and would expect the trucks do also'. Other than that , you have a good looking truck there and a 4x4 at that.

 

[Tentin]

No worries, made sure to use 5w30 after reading a thread on here about someone who made the gear oil mistake.

 

[Tusker]

Awesome project and great looking truck! Congrats.

 

[hessmess]

Welcome! That girlfriend is a keeper! A Rodeo rearend will not work, has to be out of a Trooper.
I have a G80 in mine.

 

[itsmehb]

Welcome! That girlfriend is a keeper! A Rodeo rearend will not work, has to be out of a Trooper.
I have a G80 in mine.

Pretty sure most Troopers are 4.56 gearing while pick ups are different. I think maybe 4.30's so may have to replace the front to match the G80 rear if you were to find one. And glad you saw the engine oil for tranny post before diving in. When I had mine changed several years back, I had to show the guy that it took engine oil. He was about to put gear oil in it.

 

[Tentin]

Went to the junk yard to grab a rear abs sensor, snapped in half as I was trying to remove it. Someone also snagged the brush guard I had eyes on. I guess the day wasn't a total wash as I was able to snag a Haynes manual someone left behind.

Took the wheels off and attacked them with a DA polisher. Still some oxidization left but they look 20x better than they did before. Also mounted a fire extinguisher to the floor under the seat on the passenger side.

 

[Dannyx24]

Very cool little truck!!

 

[Van]

You don't see these too often anymore.

You've got the 2.6 engine since I don't see the V6 emblems... might have been removed tho :? 4:30 gears IF 2.6... look under the hood on the firewall for the Service Parts ID Plate, will have "S7C"

There's a website or two of what all the codes are on the ID plate, sorry I don't have that info right now.

Welcome to the minority of the Isuzu crowd. :lol:

 

[Tentin]

Yep 2.6. Firewall code actually says S7R instead of S7C, I'm assuming that's the equivalent.

Latest updates: upgraded the dash speakers to 5.25" speakers from the stock 4" ones. Had to slightly modify the clearance but once the grill is on you cant tell anymore. Also sanded down the bed and applied herculiner with a roller which came out great but I'm kicking myself for not taking before/after photos

 

[Tentin]

Things are starting to pick up a bit. I've got an important internship coming up and I'd like to get as much done as I can within the next couple weeks. Went to the local OHV park (Hollister Hills) and had a few high centering scares that convinced me it's time to go higher.

Since then I've:

-2" torsion lift in the front and flipped ball joints, thinking about going a few more turns before I get my alignment.
-Replaced distributor cap and wanted to replace the rotor but it seems rock auto sent me the wrong part
-Replaced the rear brake rotors and pads with centrics
-Adjusted the valves, torqued the rocker arms. Wanted to torque the head bolts but seemed to have lost my 10mm hex bit socket
-New valve cover gasket and resprayed the valve cover
-Replaced the passenger side CV axle which was a pain but realized I could skip a step and leave the lower ball joint attached and still get the axle out once I got the angles right.
-Bought the steel and bolts needed to do a 3" rear shackle lift. Plan is to make it aftermarket style with the welded center reinforcement but also use the stock bushings

Still need to do:
-Driver side axle
-Rear shackle lift
-Front brake pads and rotors
-Tires?
-Alignment
-Rebuild driver side Aisin hub, the switch doesn't turn all the way

 

[Tentin]

Went back to Hollister yesterday, made it to the top for the first time which was a blast. Definitely need to reconnect my handbrake, because cliffside hill starts are a bit scary right now. This is the section I stalled on, loud music warning.

On the way out of the park we decided to stop by the bathroom and then the truck wouldn't turn back on. Turning over but not firing. Had spark, and no sound coming from the fuel pump. Tried new fuses and relays but still couldn't get it to audibly prime. We were the only people on the mountain at the time but about an hour later we ran into someone who offered to flat tow us back down to pavement so we could call a tow truck. To further complicate things they aren't allowing passengers in tow trucks right now due to covid, so we had to call for a friend to pick us up. All in all I think we spent about 5 hours stranded on that mountain... at least we had beer.

 

[hessmess]

It is easier to pull the bed to get to the pump, I then used an engine hoist to lift the bed off. Make sure you replace the pump sock too.

 

[Tentin]

Walked down to the truck today and tested a few things. The "jumper" trick didn't work, although the connection tested hot (12v). Both 20a fuel pump fuses (the one in the engine bay and the one in the cabin) are getting zero volts, even when cranking. Looks like I've got some research to do

 

[giusedtobe]

Either your GF is a rare bird or totally infatuated with you. Very very few will get greasy working on an old truck!

Good luck with the project.

 

[Tentin]

I think it's a little bit of both haha. Thanks!

Today I tried to force 12v into the fuel pump circuit by making a jumper between the headlight and fuel pump fuses. Turned the headlights on and the truck started up and ran for 3 seconds and then abruptly stopped. I figured I blew a fuse or something but they all checked out. Was nice to hear the thing run again, even if it was for just a moment.

Next idea was to run a long jumper wire directly from the battery into the connector for the fuel pump. I could hear the fuel pump running which seemed promising, but no luck.

Last idea I tried was the alternator bypass jumper with a second jumper into the fuse. No fuel pump noise, nor did it fire up. The mystery continues

edit: Update, a combination of hotwiring the fuel pump directly from the battery AND the alternator bypass jumper was the secret. Rather than chase down the flaw in the wiring the plan is to buy some thicker wire and make a new fuel pump circuit with a toggle switch in the cabin. Either that or tap into something that is already switched 12v when the key is in the on position.