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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
so, I got out of work earlier. went home, ate dinner, moved the kids car out of the shop, drove the trooper in onto the ramps.

changed out the o2 sensor, while my youngest son pulled the dash out to reset the o2 light. it took longer to reset the light than change the o2 sensor!

after that, we tackled the crank position sensor- I pulled the front tire,the sensor bolt and pigtail....and my son did the rest. thank god his hands are smaller than mine! he got the new sensor installed and tightened up, I installed the rubber flap and tire.

fired up right away, no stumbling, no o2 light! :D

wife has to go to town tomorrow, will see how it runs...

oh, and the odometer is at 420,000 :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
well, it did not die out on the wife today in town...but was throwing plumes of smoke out the exhaust (engine oil) must not like the castrol 5-30 I put in there on the last oil change.
still has hard starting, like 2 or 3 separate cranks, then it fires up.

the stumble/ rough idle is back again at start-up.

that o2 sensor I changed only had 10,000 km on it, the one before that had only 35,000 km on it...

the cps looked oem, and that was changed last night.

so was it a bad 02 shutting the motor off, or a bad cps? the o2 will set a code, it was code 44, but there were no codes for a cps... :roll:

and that drivers headlamp is still intermittent :blackeye:
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
got that darned drivers headlamp fixed, I swapped out the ballast for the bulb, and it came to life... and worked properly since tuesday :D

yesterday my factory service manuals arrived!! 8) 8)

and the day before that, some other Isuzu fsm's came up for sale really cheap, so I bought those as well.

boss told me not to come to work today, :? oh well more stuff to do at home, on the other trooper, to get it road ready....we are in a ''winter storm warning'' for the week-end... :roll:

ordered some dome lamp switches for the rear door. ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
put a liter of oil in it. got some new dome light door switches. wife is complaining of a growl-like a bad rear wheel bearing. will have to look into that.
my other books I ordered showed up yesterday, a lot thicker than the other fsm I ordered. nice, lots of info.
long week-end, lets see what I get done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
changed out the inop rear door dome light switch. dropped the air pressure in the tires for winter.

that's about it.
helped my kid finish working on his atv. then the three of us went for a rip down the old creek bed. no water or mud :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
pulled the rh rear axle shaft, ya know, just for fun :roll: wife complaining of a noisy bearing

well, the bearing seems ok, turns fine, I think …? jammed a grease needle into it thru the edge of the seal and pumped some grease into it. inner seal wasn't damaged, but seems to be weeping a bit. the seals and bearings I ordered are completely wrong.... :x
might have to buy a larger floor press, to get the spacer and bearing pressed out- make a goofy jig for that

maybe the seals and bearings are for the inside of the diff ? :oops: no clue, got the #'s from the forum, and they are not the front bearings and seals
fought with the park brake shoes, [email protected]#$ I hate drum brakes
got the oem number from the bearing, will go to the bearing shop, see what I can find
slammed it all back together, anti-seize on the axle tube flange, so I don't have to slide hammer so hard on it, next time it comes apart for a new bearing and seal.
may have to order all the seals and bearings, pull the axles and chunk, and re-bearing it all :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
wife drove it this morning, still noisy. I notice the noise as well, mostly when cruising on the highway, let off the throttle, it disappears, apply throttle it comes back, force it to downshift and the noise comes back and stays the same.
maybe a pinion bearing? seems to be more play than usual between the pinion and crown, before the tires start moving. last time I changed the rear diff fluid it was very milky, no chunks of metal. proper gear oil and locker additive. :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
wife commented a few times that the cooling system would ''gurgle'' after being shut off....(after the new rad install)
so, a few weeks ago, I put the oem rad cap back on, and the ''gurgles'' have disappeared...so much for installing a new rad cap.
other than that, just gas and oil. 4wd works great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
tried out the 4wd- by accident/ incident- it was fresh snow on top of ice, slid off the highway into the ditch while trying to turn onto the road to my house, jumped out and locked the hubs, drove back and forth to make a path, then hammered on it and clawed my way up the embankment and onto the road.
those coopers chewed thru the 10 inches of snow, down to the dirt/ grass/ gravel on the crown of the ditch, onto the road no problems.

then I got home, and changed the engine oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
ordered a new muffler and gaskets for Brenda, it getting really noisy (holes in muffler)

make it so its not as loud, then try to pinpoint the ''whine'' noise from the rear diff, trans or transfer case....I checked the outer bearings in the rear diff, those are fine, and the front bearings are new
I think its the rear diff, making the noise- oil is proper and fairly new
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
put it inside, did a few minor things to it. first off, vacuumed it out really well...had a minor mouse issue in there- wife keeps leaving empty food wrappers and what not in there, and ketchup packets....found those chewed up and dragged all over the place inside the trooper. told the wife no more fricking food in there, and if you do, take your garbage out!!!
had a power outlet/ interior light out, that socket had a blown fuse. ( self installed socket and light) I remember the kid plugging a large inverter into the socket to power his laptop, it never worked after that....
replaced a burnt out bulb in the prndl indicator
adjusted the switch striker for the rear cargo area lamp, I installed a new switch but it would make the interior lamp flash (strobe!) when hitting bumps on the road.
replaced a burnt out bulb in the headlamp switch.
put about a liter of oil in the motor.

will do more to it tomorrow. wife is complaining about the engine surging at idle, in park.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
finished cleaning it out yesterday, put the console back in, this time with all the screws in place...
replaced the dome light led's, the cob style led panels are nice and bright but run really hot. installed 4 small (.75 x .5 inch) cob led panels, they might run cooler...will wait and see what happens.

last night I read the fsm, it said to start by cleaning the iac valve....
so, this morning, I removed the iac valve, wow there was lots of soot in there. took the intake pipe off, stuffed a rag in there , then proceeded to spray ''intake and throttle body'' cleaner in there, lots of carbon black coming out of there-
then I used a round brass bristle brush, soaked in the same cleaner, and lightly cleaned the bore, and then sprayed the same cleaner thru the bores....lots of black carbon ''juice'' ha ha
soaked up as much as I could, then blew it out with compressed air. lubed up the o-ring on the iac valve and installed it.
dumped a gallon of sea-foam into the fuel tank (tank is almost full ) for a strong injector clean.

minor oil leak at oil pan drain plug- will use a new gasket for that at next oil change. looks like the power steering pump input shaft is leaking.
installed new wiper blades- the current ones were chattering something terrible.
dumped a full jug (4 liters) of washer fluid into the washer tank- the weather has been slushy and muddy...
checked and adj tire pressure.

now what....!
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
well, a bunch of parts for both my troopers are in town, but they are at a ''delivery'' station, not at the ''pickup'' station. the parts are scheduled for jan 6 delivery-if I want them sooner, they said they could transfer my items to the ''pickup'' station, that would take 3-4 days. wtf! the entire time I was on the phone I could have driven across town, from the ''delivery'' station to the ''pickup'' station-
and there would have been extra paperwork, and these idiots have lost my packages before, so I left it for delivery , by 4:30 pm jan 6.
this holiday season has really screwed up delivery stuff, and what is open or closed. some places decided to close completely from dec 23 until jan 6. being closed that long really screws with everybody. not everybody is in, or has, the situation to have that many days off. some people still need to work.

I feel that there are too many places now, that feel, or have, the need to not hurt anyones feelings....by saying they have to work on this day or these hours....people are complaining there are no jobs, but then they will complain about how long they worked this week-like 20 hours-

the hard working person is a dying breed.

oh, and the trooper still has that engine surging at idle. maybe the iac valve is nfg, the fsm says that you should be able to push it in lightly with finger pressure, well the one I have wont move.
I might swap the iac from the other trooper, see if the problem is gone. then if that's it I will buy a new iac valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
my rockauto order showed up, new muffler, gaskets and trans mount. yay more repairs to do!
 

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well, i think I got my full use out of the oem muffler....
IMG_1945.JPG


and I installed this....
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actually went pretty smooth, used a dip disk on a 90* air die grinder, cut the muffler pipe off right close to the oem muffler, just before the factory welds. the front mount on the side of the muffler unbolted easily.
the tailpipe section bolts at the flange were so rusty, I used the zip disk again, and cut the nuts/bolts off flush with the flange, and it popped apart itself. nice.
removed tailpipe section, then pulled muffler off the hangers. cleaned (wire wheel) the tailpipe flange, but there was not much left of it after cleaning... :roll: buffed the rust off of the exhaust pipe where it goes into the muffler- this could have been clamped, but I opted to weld it on.
the new muffler fit in the same spot perfectly. once it was slid over the exhaust pipe and put on its mounts, I installed the tailpipe on its mount, used a new gasket, new nuts and bolts, and snugged it up.

the muffler pipe looked pretty much square to the exhaust pipe, so I grabbed the mig welder and welded it on. then tightened the tailpipe section. that's done !
wow, I fired it up, and you can hear the motor, and not the noisy exhaust- :D

only leak is at the tailpipe flange, even with a new gasket. the factory tailpipe flange was rusted very thin, and was already warped, and I didn't want to break it by trying to hammer it flat. will order a new tailpipe section and another gasket at a later date....
 

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and I also noticed this- whoops!
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I guess I bent the hell out of this brake line when I went in the ditch a few weeks ago, and did some ''impromptu'' log crawling... :blackeye:
pulled it off, plugged the lines, then went on a parts/lunch run. lunch was $15, new brake line $3....

bent up the new line, got it installed, bled the brakes.

then drained the rear diff...
IMG_1951.JPG

that oil isn't very old. like only a couple of months old. will check the diff vent.

more work on it tomorrow. :roll:

oh- the burning oil smell is atf, dripping out of the side of the trans, maybe the trans oil pan, onto the exhaust pipe y area heat shield. minor atf leak on a hose to the rad- not sure if its the hose or clamp (fairly new)
or if its the power steering pump front seal, dripping onto the hose from above :?
 

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IMG_1952.JPG

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well, found the atf leak, it wasn't the pan gasket, it was the seal behind the shift selector, was pretty torn up and leaking...
the oil filter has been changed, not sure on when it was changed.

getting the shift selector shaft out was a bit of a pain, but thanks to the fsm I picked up recently, it was pretty straight forward.

lucked out, they said they had a seal in stock in town- turned out it was the wrong one...but a little more digging and I got the right one (actually 2!)

used a 5/16 nut and bolt, with washers, and made a poor mans seal press, and installed the tiny seal easy peasy.

washed the trans pan inside and out, installed new filter, then a nice clean pan.
installed new trans mount, then the cross-member
drained engine oil, the drainplug was leaking, installed new drainplug w/ gasket- it was cheaper for a new drainplug, than just the gasket... :roll: new oil filter

tomorrow, hopefully use a inspection camera in the rear diff, install skid-plates, then refill the diff, trans , and engine oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
my son and I installed the skid-plates, then filled the trans and engine with oil.

fired it up, no apparent leaks, ran it thru the gears to circulate the atf. could smell raw gas while it was idling, so I used the inspection camera to look around, found a huge mouse nest on one side by the injectors. other side had raw gas pooling by the intake / injector bosses.. shut it off, removed the mouse house, and blew out both sides with air...
kid fired it up again, no more fuel pooling or smell....wtf... I only tightened the fuel return line clamp a little bit, but may have wiggled the end of the fuel rail, and that's where I THINK the fuel is coming from- it looks damp there...

used the inspection camera on the rear diff, didn't see any gear damage (hopefully) so on Monday or Tuesday I will pull the axles out, then the 3rd member, to get a good look at it. I can grab the pinion where the u-joint is and move it up and down a fair amount...hopefully just a pinion bearing...u-joints are fine.

that's enough on that trooper for today....
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
meh, it was too damn cold to go to town earlier this week. (-35-40 *C)
so, today it warmed up a bit (-22*C) I ventured out to my work where Brenda was sitting on the hoist, I pulled the driveshaft off, lifted the rear axle, pulled the tires off and other assorted stuff-calipers, rotors, brake shoes, park brake cables, abs diff wire . removed the backing plate bolts, and the axles came out so easy with the slide hammer-almost too easy!
then onto the 3rd member...remove 2 nuts and 8 bolts, a few taps with the brass hammer and it was loose....geez I forgot how much these small diffs actually weigh!!!
I knocked it apart, no damage to the gears, but well worn races, and some odd wear pattern on the pinion bearings. pinion seal completely dry, no leak.
looked at it for a few minutes, made a phone call, no bearings locally.

threw it in the back of the other trooper, and dropped it off at my local driveline/ diff shop. they know exactly what they are doing
no pics, I forgot the camera...
 
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