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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Brenda has developed a stumble/ dead cylinder/ misfire at startup, when cold. seems to clear up when the engine warms up.
will be doing spark plugs and o2 sensor, will run some jectron (?) thru the fuel system first just to see if that clears it up.

it already has a newer fpr, I just changed the fuel filter maybe 2 months ago? I wouldn't be surprised if an injector was going out, after all she ONLY has 409,000 km on it... :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
changed spark plugs and o2 sensor today. o2 sensor easy peasy. the plugs? two of the rubber boots that go around the ceramic decided to stay in the head. one came out easy, the other got tore up by the pick I was using. cleaned the plastic tube and rubber boot with brake-cleen, then used Permatex to glue them back in place on the plastic tube. one plug, the socket wouldn't fit- there was a rubber insert from a different socket, preventing the socket from engaging. finally got that rubber out by jamming a socket onto the plug, forcing the rubber into the socket... :blackeye:
while it was jacked up, I gave the drivers side tire a wiggle, and there was some play....wife watched and confirmed it wasn't the ball-joints, so I pulled the hub apart to tighten the wheel bearing.
decided to check the pass side...

the locking hub was loose! not fall off loose, but you could see it move when the tire was turned either direction....so, pull the outer cover off to tighten the inner bolts, and the locking slider ring inside the hub had come off its return spring, so even in the ''free'' position the hub was still locked! :roll:

I have no clue how long that hub has been ''locked''

so with that fixed, some fresh grease smeared in there, then all bolts loc-tite and torqued I confirmed that the hub would lock and unlock by spinning the tire, it works properly again. 8)

now to drive it and see if the random stumble at cold idle is gone....hopefully.... :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
:roll: no wonder it was pulling to the right, with that hub locked in :blackeye:
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
I bought 3 new ignition coils.
ordered 2 sets of spark plug wires from rockauto, cheaper than local, and that being said, there were NO wires available in all of Canada! :shock:
I notice the stumble/miss is worst when cold, in reverse....makes the 4wd shifter shake a lot- but when its warm, runs smooth, pulls hard, went on the highway, floored it and let the trans do its job going thru the gears, up to 90 mph- no stumbles.. :blackeye:

while the wife was starting it yesterday, I heard a small ''pop'' or ''back-fire''- but she cranked it again, and it fired right up. :roll:

now to hurry up and wait for parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
changed engine oil. then onto coil packs and new wires. original coil packs, rusty terminals. one of the spark-plug wires broke off on the spark-plug, inside the valve cover. good thing I ordered 2 sets of wires, the first set was wrong (sohc) but the second set were correct (dohc) but according to rock auto they are correct....? oh well.

seemed to start better, the true test will be tomorrow when we go out for easter dinner. maybe fuel mileage will be better..... :roll:

might have a set of 3.2 sohc plug wires for sale..... :blackeye:
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
well, no real change in how it starts. when cold, it fires right up. when warm, it cranks and cranks and cranks....
it usually starts after the 3rd try of 3 second cranking, each time.

will check fuel pressure next. have to put a tee in the pressure line, no Schrader valve.... :x
 

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93trooperpooper said:
well, no real change in how it starts. when cold, it fires right up. when warm, it cranks and cranks and cranks....
it usually starts after the 3rd try of 3 second cranking, each time.

will check fuel pressure next. have to put a tee in the pressure line, no Schrader valve.... :x
There should be a Schrader valve at the very back of the engine on the fuel rail. Its a pain to get to, but its there. Unless that didn't show up until '94...
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
changed engine oil & filter. changed fuel filter. noticed pass rear shock blown out :x well, need to buy new rear shocks AGAIN :cry:

rotated tires, front l.h. brake line hose was missing its retaining clip...dug thru my random parts, found a clip. tires aired up to 50 psi

wifey moved the steering while I watched from underneath... rh inner tie rod has a little play, so does the long steering rod at the idler on the rh side. looks like its time for the upgraded tie-rod mod.
greased the front-end and drive-line.
added 2 cans of refrigerant to the a/c- didn't seem to be blowing nice and cold like it usually does. hopefully that helps. seems colder out the vents.
muffler is almost rusted thru, and the heat shield has broken loose, so it makes a buzzing sound at idle. the oem style muffler is NOT available in Canada....but I did find it on e-bay... :roll: I don't want a ''generic'' muffler on it- my other trooper has some generic muffler on it, and its a lot louder...

seems to be using/ losing coolant. at 415,xxx km the headgaskets might be getting weak. no coolant in engine oil. no coolant puddles underneath or inside .new rad ''gurgles''' when the engine is shut off after its at operating temp. old rad never did that.
seems to be harder on fuel. tailpipe is black and sooty. still starts hard once its warmed up fully. 3rd crank and it usually starts. when cold it has a stumble, like a dead cylinder. I am leaning towards injectors. it has had recent plugs/ wires /coils/ replaced on it. that seemed to make no difference in how it starts.
was going to change the rear diff oil, but I have no friction modifier on hand.
brakes are still good! I really like the brake pad / rotor kit I got online.

now, clean up after myself, and start on another project....
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
had a headlamp bulb out. changed the ballast, still didn't work. checked the line voltage, only 7.2 volts …..? that's on the wiring harness that came with the hid bulb kit- plugged the old lamp and ballast back in, and the headlight turned on...?

don't know, if the harness has a resistor to lower the voltage, or if there is a problem with the harness. I have ran the ballasts at line voltage (12.5~16.5 volt dc) no problem, but at a lower voltage, it might not let the bulb ''fire''- the ballast ups the voltage a lot, enough to give you a good shock when playing with the wires on a live circuit... :blackeye:
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
changed out a non-working hid bulb on the drivers side.
added more coolant- its going somewhere, no drips on the ground. and I think the newer rad cap is shot, the rad can be low, but it never pulls excess coolant from the overflow tank. unless its a head gasket issue, sucking coolant and blowing it out the exhaust, but the exhaust is burning black, not white, smells like gas, not sweet coolant.
needs front-end work, all over the road, was under it a few weeks ago and I had the wife move the steering, and it seems like the drag link joints are loose....after all, it was a CHEAP e-bay front end kit ($100 or so?) for all the front end parts. good enough for selling a vehicle, but the cheap parts don't last.
will be collecting better front-end parts for another go-around. maybe a re-man steering box , mine is slopped out, cant adjust the play out of the sector shaft....
and waiting for new rear shocks...the ones I want, there are none in Canada, so they back-ordered until ? meh....
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
i had my son replace the rear shocks today, a pair of rancho 9000rs arrived saturday 8) the previous rancho shock on the pass rear was blown out, oil leaking out the seal, had no nitrgen left in it. :roll:
wife says it rides much better now- but she says i need to do something about the sloppy steering . i know what is needed, but i need the other trooper up and running, so i can park this one and give it a good '' once over'' before winter.

will see if i can get warranty on that leaking shock.

oh, and the wife said the drivers headlamp was out AGAIN...but it was on when she drove it onto the hoist to change the shocks.... :x
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
I think the trooper is having fuel pump issues...randomly dies in traffic, at stop lights, and while cruising down the highway at 65..one time it had low / poor power while accelerating hard on a merge lane, it didn't die out completely but would hardly rev up.
other times I could pop it into neutral while coasting, the engine was still idling but would not rev up, then after a few times of gas pedal antics it would die completely, then crank the starter and it would fire up, pin the gas to the rev limiter/ fuel cut no problem and drop it into gear accelerate hard well above the speed limit, coast down to the speed limit, set cruise at 65, drive for maybe 10 minutes on the highway and it would die again....ffs....now what
managed to get it home, it died 4 more times, but fires right back up when cranked.....wtf
might have to drive the other trooper until I figure this bs out.... :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
key on engine off fuel pressure 32 psi
key on engine running 32 psi
snap the throttle, jumps to 40 psi, then drops to 26~28 psi for a second, then back up to 32 psi
at 3,200 rpm its at 32 psi
been sitting for 2 hrs(?) psi dropped to 15psi
swapped relay from drl to fuel pump, same results

changing battery terminal lugs, they are looking pretty crappy- have some high end car audio lugs to install

chasing the headlamp issue- still intermittent.... :x
and the dome lights aren't working...but the door lights are...? :roll:

checked engine and transmission for codes, there are none. charging at 13.8~ 14.2 volts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
finished wiring the new battery clamps on, added an extra ground cable.
installed ''push on '' foam bulb trim to the rad, to help seal the gap between it and the rad support...the new rad did not come with any.
buttoned up the parts removed to check the fuel pressure- what a dumb spot for that Schrader valve :roll:

then to check some wiring by the fuel tank, I noticed before that there had been a repair to the wiring, or someone else had the fuel tank out...
well well well....one of the repaired wires had green corrosion coming out of the one end of it....hmmm I had the wife start it, and I moved and twisted the wire, it did not take much for it to break, and as soon as it did the trooper died....might be the culprit? will repair the wire, and try driving it again.... :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
cut out the old connection at the pump, then used a heat shrink butt connector, then covered with more heat shrink tubing, then wrapped in black tape, then put back up in place. the pump primed, and Brenda fired right up! hopefully that was the issue.
I cut the old connection apart, and someone else's solder joint was completely green with corrosion...
then onto the interior lights...pulled the fuse, put it back in, and the dome lamps came on...but very poorly. the cob led's I installed in there a long time ago had many dead diodes, so I removed the 3 cob panels and installed the last 2 I had- boom light!

the rear cargo light had a poor connection at the grounding door switch- removed switch, cleaned and re-installed and it works again.

had the wife rock the steering, just to verify which parts I need- one inner tie rod rh side is loose, and both the sockets are loose on the drag link, and the steering box was ''clunking''...?
adjusted some play out of the steering box, majority of the clunk is gone, mostly just a ''click'' now when the steering is rocked back and forth.
checked the charging system at idle, 14.19 volts at the battery, 14.18 volts at the body grounds. wifey drove down the road and back, and it didn't die. hopefully it was that crappy connection near the tank.

started a list for front end parts. actually, I only need the drag link, I have all new moog ball joints and the hd tie rods already in a box, on the shelf collecting dust....its been a busy year :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
:x damn thing died 7 times yesterday, and 4 times today :x
starts right back up, no stumbles, acting like it was shut off.... :roll:
 

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Just a thought have you tried to pull a code on it? I am dealing with an older 1st Gen Trooper and it finally threw a code 41.
Crank angle sensor. You might look at that one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
died 2 more times on the wife

checked it for codes when this started happening, none.

8) ordered a factory service manual for it this morning 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
tried pulling codes again, all I got was a 12.....hoping the book comes soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
changed engine oil. took some adjustment out of the steering box- I made it too tight, would not return to center... :roll:

turned the switch for the headlamps, and nothing...had parklights, but no headlamps.... :shock: been having issues with one, now both. :roll:
checked the fuses, all good....bumped the relay for the hid harness, and one came to life...hmmm checked the relay connections, and sure enough the main power wire was burnt off in the socket, and the power wire to the drivers hid was burnt off as well!

I had a new relay and harness in my cabinet, pulled out the old harness and installed the new one. all is good now!!

cheap Chinese wiring; I may have to build my own harness...I mean, how long can a 18 ga wire pulling 20 amps last for :lol:
 
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