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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi y'all. I get off work at 3 am and drive home on dark Idaho roads that are known to have deer on them. I'm not very pleased with the headlights on my p'up and am looking for some ideas for fog/driving light mounting. Anyone have any cool pics they'd be willing to share? Currently have stock chrome bumpers with no add ons.
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I appreciate any help you can provide!

Cheers
Alex
 

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Going to have to get creative on that one. I have never thought about additional lights. I have seen them mounted to the roof and up by the windshield, but that is not my idea of a good looking light. You may want to look at putting some behind the grill or maybe if you are creative enough, a cutout in the bumper itself.
Those would be my best guess, and yeah deer and these pickups do not mix well, I tagged one years ago with mine and replaced the front fender and hood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited by Moderator)
I figured out my lights! These are the things I bought:
Lights
Wiring Harness

I decided to mount them in the upper, outer holes in the bumper fascia.
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This is what I had to work with
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I had to start by modifying the mounting brackets to fit in the space. This required bending the top part of the ears and drilling new holes for the cross bolt.
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...continued in next post
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited by Moderator)
...continued from above post

Modifications completed on the bracket. This company did a good job of designing the bracket. The head of the bolt is kept from spinning by a ridge on either side.
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Then I drilled a hole in the plastic and secured the light to the bumper with the included nut
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Now it was time to work on the wiring. I mounted the relay to the forward fuse box bolt and ran the wiring through the wiring tube on the right side of the firewall. I taped the wires to a long torx screwdriver and used that to push them through. I worked through the right dash speaker hole.
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Continued in next post...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited by Moderator)
...Part 3
Running the wiring into the cab.
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I put the connector back onto the wires and then ran the harness extension fo the switch behind the dash. I picked a couple of switches out of junkyard Rodeos a couple of weeks ago and I decided to use one of them here in the factory spots. After conducting continuity testing among all the terminals on the switch, I determined which 3 I needed to use and connected the switch harness directly to them.
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Continued in next post...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited by Moderator)
...the final steps.

Yes, it is a rear defroster switch, but I really like the fact that it lights up when it's on and that it fits perfectly in the hole that was already there. After I took this picture I ended up moving the switch 1 slot to the left because it fit a little better.
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Great success! Now I need to get it on the road and aim them. Now I'll be able to see those sneaky deer when they try to ambush me :D
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I hope that some of you find this helpful.

Cheers
Alex
 

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That looks great. Better than OEM lights. Lights look like they were custom made just for the Truck. And you did an excellent job of posting pics and describing the installation.
 
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Nicely done, great job on your installation!
 

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itsmehb said:
That looks great. Better than OEM lights. Lights look like they were custom made just for the Truck. And you did an excellent job of posting pics and describing the installation.
Agreed. Nice job on the work & the very helpful descriptions & pics.
 

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The rear defroster picture on the button was bothering me so I had a buddy make me a little fog light sticker (penny included for scale)

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I needed to get rid of the defroster logo so I used some of my daughter's nail polish remover and several Q-tips.

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While doing this, I discovered that the button is actually made of a white colored plastic with a black coating of some kind. Trying to remove the logo washed away some of the black coating so I had to use a little bit of black paint to give me a background for the sticker.

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With that dried over night, I could put on the sticker and finally finish this job. It isn't the best because the paint isn't as smooth as the factory finish, but it'll work.

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Cheers!
Alex
 

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IMG_1444.JPG


more light is always nice....
i dont use all of them on the highway....only on the gravel road, that is ALWAYS occupied by 4 legged critters...

looks good, and that switch worked out good.

on my trooper i replaced the broken oem fogs with dual row 8'' light bars
and a dual row 24'' bar in the middle.
 

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Nice find on those lights, seems to fit perfectly in those breathing holes!
 

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Nice work!!! I was so angry when I saw you left the defrost button... and then I got to the part that you replaced the white drawing... Yeah!!!
 

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I mounted in the front lower valance in one of the squares. I wired them into a rocker toggle switch. They are a must have in Idaho. I can relate to not much light with factory headlights. I also bought a set of very bright bulbs that give more than enough clearance.
 

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I have an 1989 trooper with a steel bumper, I replaced my headlights to led, my low beams should be about 5,300 lumens with an 8,000 for high beams, I then added a 14 inch led bar at 3,000 lumens to the center of the bumper. Once I get to pulling out the dent on the passenger side of the bumper or find an replacement option for the bumper I bought 4 four inch led lights, ill run two at a 45 degree angle to help with sneaky deer and elk, huge problem up here in the White Mountains of AZ I'm 50 miles from the New Mexico state line. Then I'll run the other two under the headlights, each of these lights are 6,000 lumens. My running lights are also led at 700 lumens each. Then I'll add a 8 or 10,000 lumen light bar to the roof as well. So currently I can push 12,400 lumens of the front of the Isuzu, once I fix the bumper and add all my lights, still need a light bar for the roof. I'll run 6,700 on low beams, 9,400 on high beams. The switch for the 4 inch lights adds 24,000 and the last switch with both light bars adds 11,000 or 13,000 lumens. Total possible output will be 44,400 or 46,400 lumens off the front end. I should be able to see a deer, I have never hit one and it doesn't sound like fun.
 

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I can confirm that hitting a deer is not fun. Insurance totaled one of my first cars after hitting one at about 50mph. $8k+ of damage. It ran across from the other side of the street and I hit the brakes but it was too late. Learned my lesson with that one, slow down the second you see one anywhere near the road as they can be completely unpredictable
 

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That's all well and good, but when I handled auto accidents, about half the time the deer slammed into the side of the vehicle as it was passing.
 

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Pro tip:

The 2nd gen rodeos came with fog lights and have a fog light toggle switch that perfectly pops into those switch slots. Just pop out one of the blank faces and pop it in. Obviously you got to do a little troubleshooting to figure out the wiring but I found them to be quite simple. They light symbol even lights up. I run down to the local junk yard and get a few when I see them.
 

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Loopycow said:
I have an 1989 trooper with a steel bumper, I replaced my headlights to led, my low beams should be about 5,300 lumens with an 8,000 for high beams, I then added a 14 inch led bar at 3,000 lumens to the center of the bumper. Once I get to pulling out the dent on the passenger side of the bumper or find an replacement option for the bumper I bought 4 four inch led lights, ill run two at a 45 degree angle to help with sneaky deer and elk, huge problem up here in the White Mountains of AZ I'm 50 miles from the New Mexico state line. Then I'll run the other two under the headlights, each of these lights are 6,000 lumens. My running lights are also led at 700 lumens each. Then I'll add a 8 or 10,000 lumen light bar to the roof as well. So currently I can push 12,400 lumens of the front of the Isuzu, once I fix the bumper and add all my lights, still need a light bar for the roof. I'll run 6,700 on low beams, 9,400 on high beams. The switch for the 4 inch lights adds 24,000 and the last switch with both light bars adds 11,000 or 13,000 lumens. Total possible output will be 44,400 or 46,400 lumens off the front end. I should be able to see a deer, I have never hit one and it doesn't sound like fun.
had a 50'' curved light bar mounted on the roof of my wifes f150....sure, it was bright, but the glare from the hood was annoying. make sure you want a light bar up there, before mounting it, and then realizing that the glare at night is terrible....
 

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Thanks for the info does the glare go away if you mount the led bar say a foot back from the front roof line? I have never had a light bar on the roof so any info is very appreciated!
 
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