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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so here I go. Had an '88 a '94 and a '98 over the years. About to dive into my new '91 that I picked up in Nor Cal for $2k with a bad rod knock and no power but still moving. Clean body, nice 2" lift and great rubber.
Specs: '91 Trooper with 4 cyl 4ze1 and manual transmission. Plan is to start pulling the motor this weekend and get it up to Reno to Shawn Anthony for a complete rebuild. Lots of "Might as Wells" to happen. Will pull the tranny and have a local shop go through it. Definitely a new clutch and then put it all back together.
I have reasonable diy mechanical skills and great internet. Lol. I have pulled and a replaced an engine in an old CJ5 back in college 30-years ago. I'm less flexible but more patient now...
Following an old Chilton removal instruction and extra tips gathered from the forum and YouTube.
Fingers crossed! Will post updates and pics as I go for those interested. Tips and advice welcomed!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Weekend 1 up; radiator, shroud and fan out, all the electrical and vacuum labeled and disconnected, exhaust tailpipe pick up removed, PS disconnected, Next weekend I'll borrow a cherry picker and go for the pull. Leaving the Itec on. Will wrestle the tranny bolts and cross my fingers. Working slow and methodically with only a few hours each day per weekend. Final removal will determine if I have the balls to attempt re-install. Like the built not bought approach... fingers still crossed
 

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Nice rig! Welcome!

I recently put a 4ze1 crate motor in my '89.

If you are going for a full rebuild anyway, I think it is easier to pull the head and itec combo as a complete unit. That way you don't have to try to get to the intake bolts underneath the plenum on the itec. You can just take the whole head off and the itec comes with it. It makes pulling the block easy after the head/itec is off. I have pics of pulling the old motor on my Project Thunderbolt thread.

You can do it!

If you have access to a lift, I found I was able to stand under the transmission and reach up on either side like I was giving it a hug and was able to reach those bolts pretty well. Otherwise, the trick of removing the motor mounts and dropping the engine and transmission tilts down a couple inches gives you more space. (it rests on the crossmember) J5 has a vid on youtube on it.

Kind regards,

-BoiseTrooper
 

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Nice! From your college timeframe I think we are ~ the same age. Not trying to take $ away from Shawn but you can rebuild it yourself if you have a reasonable machine shop in the area. I am not as flexible as I once was either but managed all the work alone. I had done a fair amount of peripheral auto work; brakes, water pumps etc. but had never dug into the guts of a motor. With the help of people here I rebuilt mine. I have a thread called 2.6 rebuild if you are interested.

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Baby steps... I'm going to leave the internal rebuild to the pros this time and see if I can try and not screw up the rest, lol. Lots of knowledge out there to help me through it hopefully. Now I get to do my day job all week and prep for next weekend

giusedtobe said:
Nice! From your college timeframe I think we are ~ the same age. Not trying to take $ away from Shawn but you can rebuild it yourself if you have a reasonable machine shop in the area. I am not as flexible as I once was either but managed all the work alone. I had done a fair amount of peripheral auto work; brakes, water pumps etc. but had never dug into the guts of a motor. With the help of people here I rebuilt mine. I have a thread called 2.6 rebuild if you are interested.

Alan
 

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Docloucks said:
Baby steps... I'm going to leave the internal rebuild to the pros this time and see if I can try and not screw up the rest, lol. Lots of knowledge out there to help me through it hopefully. Now I get to do my day job all week and prep for next weekend
I'd make sure the pros are pros before sending it to the pros. If you take my meaning...
 
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mudoilngears said:
Docloucks said:
Baby steps... I'm going to leave the internal rebuild to the pros this time and see if I can try and not screw up the rest, lol. Lots of knowledge out there to help me through it hopefully. Now I get to do my day job all week and prep for next weekend
I'd make sure the pros are pros before sending it to the pros. If you take my meaning...
Agree. You do it yourself then you know its done right.
 

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That looks like the one that had a build thread on here some years ago. https://www.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=74710 The owner dumped ton of time and money into it and then sold out of isuzu after getting frustrated with it and his other projects. If that is the same rig, it looks like it was partially parted out. I don't think the photos still work but it was same very nice white with round eye grill, but the owner had black interior done. The wheels and tires look the same too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nope. Similar but not the same one. Carfax mileage and owner history doesn't add up. Plus it's got stock brown interior. The guy I got it from did switch out the grill and lights to the round but have tons of paperwork and receipts. Great recall though. I'm impressed
 

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Bart's Trooper was the first thing I though of when I saw this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well hopefully Bart's was badass and will lend some cosmic force to mine being that it is Star Wars day...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Labeling, bagging and tagging.... boy there are a lot of hoses, electrical connections and vacuum pieces. Praying my tape labels, videos and pics help me figure out how to put it all back together! I get the strange feeling I will need resources to figure the puzzle back out, lol.
 

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Take lots of pictures and label like you are doing and you will find it surprisingly easy. If you lose a label and forget you can find it here in photos or just ask and someone will know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ziplock bags with pre-printed labels tape on hoses and ends with corresponding numbers etc.
biggest current issue is wrestling with a couple mechanical issues like getting the fricking starter out as well as the ac compressor off...!
I know that come rebuild it's the block and the head that go to the shop so I'm ok taking off extra items during disassembly knowing they either come off while in the engine compartment or off on the engine stand later.
Slow, gradual, no rush steady progress is the mantra. It's supposed to be FUN is what my wife keeps telling me and I want the fun to last for a while, lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This week's lesson to myself was that time a little research and patience are huge! Was struggling to get the starter out and the ac compressor. Found an old post on the forum that said to pull the canister for better starter access, will have to find that post again and thank them! Was able to get a breaker bar with socket onto the starter stud and walla! That then gave me long extension access to the compressor bolt I was struggling with by coming across and under the Itec.
Both came off in 30-minutes! Seemed so easy afterwards, like wtf was so tough about that, lol.
Lesson 2 is the night as wells... while I've got some of these bitch to get to parts off as definitely am going to replace them just to have it done while I'm right there. Extra few bucks today well worth the saved headaches tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My first question, and it's a dumb one.... Where on the driver's side of the engine does the hoist attach? Nice big factory Plate on passenger front but nada on driver's rear. Assuming I pull the manifold or a rear manifold bolt and attach there? Anyone? Thanks
 

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Docloucks said:
My first question, and it's a dumb one.... Where on the driver's side of the engine does the hoist attach? Nice big factory Plate on passenger front but nada on driver's rear. Assuming I pull the manifold or a rear manifold bolt and attach there? Anyone? Thanks
Hey Doc,

Towards the rear of the driver's side (midway down the block) there is an unused threaded boss. Some use that but you will have to scrounge up a big fine-thread bolt. Access isn't great.

Most, myself included, use the furthest rear exhaust manifold bolt. It worked fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks. I saw that threaded spot you're talking about and was trying to figure if I had pulled something from there lol and thought I was losing my mind already. I wasn't planning to pull the exhaust until the motor is out so as to give myself lots of room with the egr.
Appreciate the tips!
 

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Docloucks said:
Thanks. I saw that threaded spot you're talking about and was trying to figure if I had pulled something from there lol and thought I was losing my mind already. I wasn't planning to pull the exhaust until the motor is out so as to give myself lots of room with the egr.
Appreciate the tips!
I hear ya. I gave that threaded pipe connector a shot of penetrating oil every time I walked by it for quite a while. Also make sure to use the big fatty end wrench like the ones for brake lines. They got a better purchase on it than my open end. Even a bit of heat might be needed if it is particularly stuck.

I left the pipe connected to the iTec on the other side and it came out with it when I took the motor out.

I pulled the exhaust manifold and downpipe as one piece. That flange at the downpipe is notorious for not being a great seal. I just unbolted at the second flange under the floor boards.

With the exhaust manifold and downpipe out, there is a lot of room to work.

Good luck!
 
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