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The plugs and wires look like they have never been changed, so that will def be on the list and the radiator could use a flush and refill, but what else? It has a poor idle until it warms up (it stalls sometimes when I come to a stop) so I wouldn't mind getting that fixed either. Any suggestions? It's a 5 spd V6 btw.
 

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From looking at your signature, your probably familiar with a chevy engine, which is what you got under the hood; a 60* 2.8 V6. You might want to replace the cap and rotor as well.
While your in there replacing those plugs, might as well run a compression check. That will rule out the BIG problems that may cause a rough idle, that way you can narrow it down to something small.
 

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flush out tranny- (see if there is even fluid in there), ideally speaking, do an ARX treatment on the tranny. (auto-rx.com) follow instructions for manual tranies.

flush out the trnasfer case also (ARX recomended here also, but just a fluid change alone would be better than nothing)

Axles- replace fluid (gear oil)... (ARX can go in there also, follow instructions on the site for axles/transfer-cases) You'll need to replace the gaskets (they are pretty cheap) when doing them. just cover the new gaskets with RTV before replacing them, let the RTV set-up for about an hour before filling the axle with fluid. While you have the pumpkin cover off, inspect the gears, any wear? they should look even and well shaped, if there is scoring on the gears, then keep a close watch, and listen to the axles often. Also- push/shake the carrier, and see if it is solid in place- if not, there is serious damage going on in the bushings/bearings. wipe out any gunk/buildup that you can get to with a rag in the unit.

flush out radiator very well, and ideally- put in the GM "tablets." (they can be obtained from most GM dealers)

have a look at the brake pads- and rotors, if the rotors have a lot of wear-(grooves) then have them turned, or replaced if they are beyond spec. If pads are close to being gone, might as well get em replaced.
(with brake pads, you get what you pay for, Pricey, high quality pads, do seem to last longer and deal with harder use better, in my experience.(currently using pure-ceramics with "gold shavings" in them. seem to do very well)

while you're in there, take a look at the brake lines, is there any evidense of corrosion? if the rubber lines look cracked badly, don't hesitate to replace them. The metal lines can develop rust over the years depending on where you live- having them replaced is also a good safety measure.

How does the brake fluid look? Brake fluid is basically clear from the bottle, if yours is black, bleed it all out, it will keep the brake system happy longer.

power steering fluid- hows it look? is probably time to suck it out and replace- guess what- arx is good in there too... follow instructions at the site. turn the system hard right and hard left (all the way back and forth) several times, see if it hesitates, or stumbles- if there are any problems check into it further-

check bushings in the rear leafs, replace if worn,

check ball joints up front (torn boots, or bizare alignment) replace if needed,
get an alignment after this,

take a look at shocks- if the bushings on the ends are really bad looking, or if they are leaky, then they should be replaced.

replace air filter,

check PCV valve and return lines (replace valve, remove and clean out return lines),

check EGR valve and tubes. (make sure the EGR valve moves freely, and make sure the EGR tubes are flowing).

check battery- and the wires that are connected- how bad is corrosion? sometimes you can find a manufactures code on the battery and find out how old it is- and then you'll know if it needs to be replaced.. clean off the terminals, insure solid connection.

distributor/rotor check/replacement.(if this vehicle has them).

spark plugs/wires-

lights- bulbs, are all the turn signals working, brake lights?

take a look down into the oil-fill cap- shove a finger in there- is there any buildup? sludge?... even if there isn't any evidense of buildup here- keep in mind, that ring packs, are the first to develop deposits, and reduce performance and increase blow-by. An engine at this age, often needs some good cleaning to remove those depostis, and keep the rings free and lubricated, not to mention, the oil galleys that feed the upper engine, need to be flowing freely. ARX it to keep the oiling system working properly. Engines rarely fail directly due to oil related failures, but an enourmous number of failures, are related to the flow of oil, deposits etc. Auto-RX.com

replace the fuel filter.

grease up any zerks, (driveshafts, sometimes ball joints, sometimes steering components)

do a water-cleaning on the intake side... heat up the engine good, then suck distilled or osmosysed-filters water through a vacume line that is near the throttle body- slowly- have a friend hold the throttle open a bit to keep the rpms up. take few minuts to slurp a quart of water up. as the water droplets hit the hot metal in the intake and the combustion chamber, they flash boil- breaking away carbon contamination- restoring the originally designed combustion chamber size to it's proper size and operation, which will reduce pinging, and keep the engine running properly.

buy a gallon of FP60 (http://lubecontrol.com/).. inicially run about 0.5oz per gallon of gas for a tank or 2, then 1oz per 5 gallons thereafter untill the gallon of FP60 is gone. if fuel economy is better when using the FP60, or you notice performance improvements- continue using it for the life of the vehicle at every gas-fillup at 1oz/5gallon. It's an excellent product.. one of very few fuel system treatments that is even worth a look. A gallon costs a lot, but it lasts for about 30+ fillups, if it improves milage even a little, it pays itself off.

If you want to keep things simpler and not bother with the water or the FP60.... buy a can of BG 44K and put it in the gas tank at a fillup- then run a tank or 2 with techron fuel system cleaner. use techtron in a tank from there on out every 3-5k miles.(before oil change interval).

take it into a reputable exsaust shop- have them do a back-pressure test- this will help you know whether or not to replace your cat/muffler/pipes. A more free-flowing exsaust system (performance cat/muffler, slightly bigger pipes) can improve performance and milage slightly- and often times, it doesn't cost much different than having a "stock" system installed. (My performance style cat/muffler/pipes, actually came out to be less expensive than the quote for a "stock" system.)

a compression check is a good idea, to see if the rings have significant blowby- though, you may already be able to identify this through oil consumption. Cleaning the ring packs (arx) can help them to re-seat properly, reducing consumption and improving compression.

the list could go on for pages and pages, old vehicles, have tons of little issues just waiting to crop up. engine, tranny, steering, and especially brakes, are the prioity, as they are most directly related to safety and continuation of operation.

take it one step at a time- make a list, try to do 1 thing that should be done, every month or so, hopefully, you can stay ahead of it.

oh- by the way- I am in no way affilicated, or connected, to ARX, FP60(Lube Control), Techron(chevron), or BG. these are just a few products that come highly recomended through my extensive reading and personal experience through use. (I've ARXed my engine, tranny, transfer case, and rear axle, great results, not complaints. I've used Techtron, and noted changes in engine performance and milage, I've read enough to believe in FP60, and have begun using it, with decent results, especially in cranking time. I've never used the BG 44k- but several folks where I work (who log a lot of miles, because we deliver pizzas) have used it, and have gotten good results from it.

I'm really hoping to expose the isuzu comunity that I love here at planet-isuzu, to these products. Hopefully we can move away from snake-oils, and realize, that there are proven addatives, that do as they say. As it happens, they do exsist. It's unfortunate, that at this time, you can't buy most of them on the shelves at wall-mart
 
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