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89 Trooper 2.6 4ZE1 Turbo build.

5873 Views 105 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  MrDunge
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Well the manifold finally arrived. It looks great and there is less than 5mm deviation in the piping.

I'm gonna post the build as I can w build tips and info w pics.

So far the block is done. Bored 20 over magnafluxed and cleaned, Jerry sent me a set of his last 20 over high compression pistons. Had the crank polished and balanced.

550cc injectors are gonna be used w a 255 gph fuel pump. Jerry Cam. I had to modify the fuel rail and intake holes slightly bit otherwise they fit well.

Max speed pros oil and water cooled turbo set to 10psi initially. Blow off valve set at 12psi.

Front intercooler, electric fans w thermostatic control.

AEM Air fuel mixture monitoring kit.

I'll post the parts list later for those who are interested. As for now here's a few pics of the manifold.

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I don’t know if I’m not understanding the situation. But if you have a hole in the intake you will immediately loose boost. The turbo doesn’t push enough CFM to keep up so boost will drop.
I don’t know if I’m not understanding the situation. But if you have a hole in the intake you will immediately loose boost. The turbo doesn’t push enough CFM to keep up so boost will drop.
It does drop boost. But overworks the turbo to make up for that. It's will be in a constant state of spool to create pressure. That by definition is overboosting the turbo even if it doesn't create pressure bc the waste gate won't open due to not enough pressure.

Over spool and overboost are used in conjunction w each other in this instance. Either way the increase in intake air temperature is substantial.
It does drop boost. But overworks the turbo to make up for that. It's will be in a constant state of spool to create pressure. That by definition is overboosting the turbo even if it doesn't create pressure bc the waste gate won't open due to not enough pressure.

Over spool and overboost are used in conjunction w each other in this instance. Either way the increase in intake air temperature is substantial.
I don’t think this is correct, but you may be right.

Anyway, good job so far, and good luck with the troubleshooting.
I don’t think this is correct, but you may be right.

Anyway, good job so far, and good luck with the troubleshooting.
Honestly bro I probably am wrong.....but its the only thing that makes sense. The head is warped more than .007. Even Jerry said he's never seen one warped that bad that he can remember. The head had to get super hot super fast to do that.

Heat and pressure is the only thing that can do that. The block is fine. Can't even get a .001 feeler in there. Before I took it to the exhaust shop it ran awesome. After. Not so much. The only thing the changed was the egr pipe being taken off the intake side and not reconnected.

Regardless it's getting fixed. I'm just gonna see through out of pure stubbornness more than anything else lmao.

I am open to any thought processes and suggestions.
Jerry never saw a more warped head? Man, I wish I would've saved mine when I overheated my 4z. I had a split develop in one of my heater hoses and gradually lost all my coolant. I only noticed I had no coolant when my truck lost all power. I had no compression on any cylinders. The head had to be at least an 1/8" warped. the head wouldn't sit flat on a table. you could rock it back and forth like a wobbly chair. burned a bunch of exhaust valves too. 😂
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Jerry never saw a more warped head? Man, I wish I would've saved mine when I overheated my 4z. I had a split develop in one of my heater hoses and gradually lost all my coolant. I only noticed I had no coolant when my truck lost all power. I had no compression on any cylinders. The head had to be at least an 1/8" warped. the head wouldn't sit flat on a table. you could rock it back and forth like a wobbly chair. burned a bunch of exhaust valves too. 😂
Well dang. Yea mine wobbles too lol. No burnt valves though. However I'm gonna do it right and all new valves and vavle seals w the new head.
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