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89 Trooper 2.6 4ZE1 Turbo build.

5980 Views 105 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  MrDunge, 
MrDunge
3
Well the manifold finally arrived. It looks great and there is less than 5mm deviation in the piping.

I'm gonna post the build as I can w build tips and info w pics.

So far the block is done. Bored 20 over magnafluxed and cleaned, Jerry sent me a set of his last 20 over high compression pistons. Had the crank polished and balanced.

550cc injectors are gonna be used w a 255 gph fuel pump. Jerry Cam. I had to modify the fuel rail and intake holes slightly bit otherwise they fit well.

Max speed pros oil and water cooled turbo set to 10psi initially. Blow off valve set at 12psi.

Front intercooler, electric fans w thermostatic control.

AEM Air fuel mixture monitoring kit.

I'll post the parts list later for those who are interested. As for now here's a few pics of the manifold.

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Enemigo
I was always under the impression that the Jerry Cam was ground for N/A applications. Will it still be beneficial in a boosted application?
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turnerd
Enemigo said:
I was always under the impression that the Jerry Cam was ground for N/A applications. Will it still be beneficial in a boosted application?
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I talked to Jerry about it a while back and it seems so as it basically the cam puts the valve timing where it "should be" to make the most power, rather than run clean for emissions
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turnerd
That's awesome -- I plan to boost my 2.6 with Impulse parts (keeping stock 2.6 compression for now) and I want to hear how it goes... please take pictures!
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MrDunge
turnerd said:
I talked to Jerry about it a while back and it seems so as it basically the cam puts the valve timing where it "should be" to make the most power, rather than run clean for emissions
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Yes Billy who just did his w Jerry has a Jerry cam and noticed it had a better fuel air mix w that cam vs stock. Also said it had a better/smoother power as well
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Enemigo
What's the specific turbo you're going to use, and where do you expect the power range to be?
What's the power curve like on the factory motor?
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cmf5
This looks like a sick project. Looking forward to following along!
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turnerd
This is the stock torque curve for the 2.6L. 120 max hp, 152 max ft-lb of torque. Jerry said his cam and removing the smog stuff adds about 12-15 hp.

Rectangle Slope Plot Font Parallel
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turnerd
I've been told the stock 2.6L bottom end will can take about 300 hp reliably. I know that just slapping on the impulse setup with no fueling or compression mods (but including a Jerry cam) will put it at about 185-195 hp.

What compression ratio are you going to be running? 2.3L head for crazy power or staying with the 2.6L head?
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MrDunge
So I'm shooting for around 250hp. The turbo is a internal wastegated Garrett knockoff from a company called maxpeedingrods. It was under 300 bucks shipped and they have been on the scene a while especially in Europe. It's a water and oil cooled T25 style. I was trying to be on a budget in this build but kinda went out the window......

www.maxpeedingrods.com

Street Turbo Charger T25 T28 for GT25 GT28 GT2871 Journal Bearing 14PSI 1.6L-2.0L

For GT2860 GT2871 T25 Street turbocharger Turbine Trim 76 0.64 AR 5 Bolts Flange for sale. Performance auto parts，tuning car parts and engine accessories sale online at maxpeedingrods.com with budget price and fast free shipping.
www.maxpeedingrods.com www.maxpeedingrods.com

I'm trying to run around a 10:1 compression and 14:1 fuel/air w a 2.6 head built by Clearwater heads, which is a bit stouter than a factory head of any casting. The block and the MUA5 are both rated to 300hp.

Im not trying to go stupid power. I just want to be able to drive down the road and over hills loaded w gear at 70-75mph without big rigs flipping me off while they pass me bc im doing 45 on a slight grade. Once I see how it runs I may make some changes, bit I think this'll give me what I'm looking for
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Enemigo
I haven't been this excited since Bradzu turbo'd his Amigo. Bring it on!
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turnerd
Sounds sweet and good luck. I will be especially interested in what you do with oil supply and return lines as well as intercooler mounting and exhaust setup.
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MrDunge
turnerd said:
Sounds sweet and good luck. I will be especially interested in what you do with oil supply and return lines as well as intercooler mounting and exhaust setup.
Click to expand...
So the oil cooler lines have already been decided for supply and return, as well as water supply and return. We'll on paper at least.

There will be some modification of the steel bypass line on the water pipe that runs out the driver side of the block.

The oil supply will come from the oil pressure switch hole. There is adapter that will screw into the block and give a outlet for the switch and for the oil supply line. Since they are 3 types of thread types needed that was fun to find.

The return line will go into the top of upper oil pan lip next to the dipstick. I'll drill a hole put a hose fitting in there. Since I had the entire block apart it'll make it easy.

The intercooler will be tricky, and I'll prob loose A/C (which still works on mine) for it to fit in the front. I don't know yet. I need to pull the front end apart and see exactly what I wanna do. However I will run a intercooler and it won't be a top mount Subaru style. To much heat soak while wheeling.
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turnerd
Please shoot me a picture and part number if possible for the oil pressure switch adapter thing -- it's a great idea that I'd like to steal.

I'm a lucky duck on the coolant supply as that big pipe feeding the lower radiator hose is the same on the impulse and the trooper, the impulse one just has the two extra spots for turbo cooling.

I plan to pull my motor and change a rear seal when I do the turbo addition so I'll pull the pan at that time to drill the hole. Let me know if you come to any conclusions or scientific reason when you do it lol

Ah very interesting on the intercooler. I think I am going the top mount route as Jerry is holding a hood scoop for me which will be quite functional with the impulse intercooler mounted to the valve cover. I save the wheeling for my other Troopers, so less of an issue in my application. Nonetheless, pictures of what you do will be appreciated by myself and others.


Unrelated, but questions of general curiosity...
Are you upgrading the rods? I've never heard of any issues with them and I realize you want to stay away from the scary number of 300 hp so you should be fine but I'm wondering if you gave it any thought. The crank is far overbuilt for an N/A application... I believe it is forged, no?

Lastly, I have a clearwater head like you and will continue to run their valve springs... any thought as to an upgrade or any knowledge of a beefier option? I realize it doesn't mean much as the 5500 rpm redline is pretty slow all things considered
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MrDunge
The adapter I used for the oil pressure switch is no longer available from the seller on ebay however using the part number (BX101748) I found the same one through another web site


you dont have to get it from them however it gives you the thread pitches and picture of what I am using.

As far as the rods are concerned I asked Jerry the same question. He said new arent available but the stock ones are rated the same as the block at 300hp. The crank is forged then milled yes.

I dont know if there is a another valve spring option however I havent given it to much thought and Jerry or anyone else I have talked to about it have mentioned anything concerning valve springs.

I will take pictures for sure!
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turnerd
That looks very similar to the stock one, maybe with different thread pitches.

Are you going to sacrifice the oil pressure switch or sender or drill another hole in it? That only has two outlets and one will obviously be used for turbo oil supply.
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MrDunge
turnerd said:
That looks very similar to the stock one, maybe with different thread pitches.

Are you going to sacrifice the oil pressure switch or sender or drill another hole in it? That only has two outlets and one will obviously be used for turbo oil supply.
Click to expand...
You only need 3 openings, one for the switch and one for the feed line and one end plugs into the block. On mine my switch plugs right into the side of the block on the passenger side. I dont have any adapter at all on mine. Is yours different. I wasnt gonna plug into the one on the oil filter housing thats not a switch thats the oil pressure sending unit

So I'm editing w a photo bc u got me thinking. Lol. The one on the left is where I'm going to run the line from. Am I wrong to put it there.

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turnerd
You are right -- I was thinking of the C223T that I just built (the 4ZE1 build was almost 2 years ago) where the oil pressure sensor and switch are on the same stalk. Either of those two locations should be fine to supply oil to the turbo as they directly connect to the oil galley. I'd probably use the switch as the oil supply rather than the sensor as it goes directly into the block and seems to be in a more favorable location.

Two additional thoughts:
1. Is the oil pressure switch hole the only place on the block that goes directly into the oil galley? I ask as the diesel motor had about 4-5 places like that which were all plugged. Sounds like your motor is on a stand so maybe you could check that out. Just thinking maybe you could avoid the adapter by utilizing an unused port

2. I recall that since the oil galley is on the pass side, there are none of those "oil ports" on the driver's side where the turbo would be... are you planning on running a soft or hard line and are you thinking of going around the back of the motor, over the valve cover, or what. Just thinking that routing might affect where you decide to tap in to the oil supply
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MrDunge
turnerd said:
You are right -- I was thinking of the C223T that I just built (the 4ZE1 build was almost 2 years ago) where the oil pressure sensor and switch are on the same stalk. Either of those two locations should be fine to supply oil to the turbo as they directly connect to the oil galley. I'd probably use the switch as the oil supply rather than the sensor as it goes directly into the block and seems to be in a more favorable location.

Two additional thoughts:
1. Is the oil pressure switch hole the only place on the block that goes directly into the oil galley? I ask as the diesel motor had about 4-5 places like that which were all plugged. Sounds like your motor is on a stand so maybe you could check that out. Just thinking maybe you could avoid the adapter by utilizing an unused port

2. I recall that since the oil galley is on the pass side, there are none of those "oil ports" on the driver's side where the turbo would be... are you planning on running a soft or hard line and are you thinking of going around the back of the motor, over the valve cover, or what. Just thinking that routing might affect where you decide to tap in to the oil supply
Click to expand...
This is the line w the adapter needed I am using, I am gonna run it over the valve cover to the top of the turbo since the there is no "outlet" oil source on the driver side of the block
www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: 4AN Turbo Oil Feed Line - Steel Braided 48" Length 4AN 90 Degree Straight Hose End Pressure Stainless Remote Turbocharger Sensor Teflon 4 AN : Automotive

Buy 4AN Turbo Oil Feed Line - Steel Braided 48" Length 4AN 90 Degree Straight Hose End Pressure Stainless Remote Turbocharger Sensor Teflon 4 AN: Oil Supply Lines - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: ICT Billet Straight -4AN Flare Male to 1/8"NPT Pipe Adapter Fitting 4 AN Bare Aluminum National Pipe Thread Designed & Manufactured in the USA AN816-04-02A : Automotive

Buy ICT Billet Straight -4AN Flare Male to 1/8"NPT Pipe Adapter Fitting 4 AN Bare Aluminum National Pipe Thread Designed & Manufactured in the USA AN816-04-02A: Fittings - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
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G
Interesting thread, but I may have to unsubscribe. Damn sure don't need another project! :LOL:

Mike
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