1993 Rodeo 2WD 4ZE1/T5 CA Spec - 2016 RAM1500 Pentastar (22mpg) - 1986 RockZuk on Toyota Axles
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104 Posts
(Vacuum Diverter Valve?) = "Thermal Valve" by most hood diagrams. Jerry said he needs about 12 himself they're backordered for months, I think that implies a batch gets manufactured time to time. They go for about $60-$120 used if you message someone that parts out Isuzu's from here. I was gonna pay it when the first adhesive I used melted immediately, JB weld worked. If you try to get the hoses off of it or unscrew it out of your thermostat housing, 99% chance of breaking it. I've seen a couple people claim to have bypassed it but I don't think you can with A/C and definitely not in CA. 1/2” ID hose will work for the top connectors, (the annoying one)
"The little blue one" is what you thought was next to his coolant sender in the intake manifold, right? Looked like the broken fuel kill switch/oil light sender on mine but I can see how with the plastic busted off what looks like a wiring male spade is the thing that slides up and down based on temperature.
The biggest problem on getting this truck to pass smog in CA is that the hood diagram is going to show the IAC attached to the throttle body and instead it's going to have to go to a DIY hole in the plastic of the intake tube, either one is a visual fail. You used to be able to deface the hood diagram and they'd just look for anything disconnected but they've gotten even more stringent in CA since I last dealt with it, I doubt it'd work.
I think what you'll need to do is glue the little blue valve back together leaving it always open or always closed, do the "straw trick" inside your BackPressure Transducer whether it's good or not, and basically go EGR to ported vacuum with an orifice restricting the diameter somewhere in between in a way that looks like the little blue thermal valve and BackPressure transducer are hooked up. That still leaves the modifications necessary to get the IAC hooked up probably failing you on visual.
First step is finding and understanding every piece on your hood diagram, second step is determining how many things that aren't on your diagram got swapped in with the throttle body and intake manifold.
I believe the felpro head gasket set and full gasket set come with both versions of the TB gasket. Don't buy it from Rock Auto on closeout, it will be a knockoff. Amazon $92 or so.
"The little blue one" is what you thought was next to his coolant sender in the intake manifold, right? Looked like the broken fuel kill switch/oil light sender on mine but I can see how with the plastic busted off what looks like a wiring male spade is the thing that slides up and down based on temperature.
The biggest problem on getting this truck to pass smog in CA is that the hood diagram is going to show the IAC attached to the throttle body and instead it's going to have to go to a DIY hole in the plastic of the intake tube, either one is a visual fail. You used to be able to deface the hood diagram and they'd just look for anything disconnected but they've gotten even more stringent in CA since I last dealt with it, I doubt it'd work.
I think what you'll need to do is glue the little blue valve back together leaving it always open or always closed, do the "straw trick" inside your BackPressure Transducer whether it's good or not, and basically go EGR to ported vacuum with an orifice restricting the diameter somewhere in between in a way that looks like the little blue thermal valve and BackPressure transducer are hooked up. That still leaves the modifications necessary to get the IAC hooked up probably failing you on visual.
First step is finding and understanding every piece on your hood diagram, second step is determining how many things that aren't on your diagram got swapped in with the throttle body and intake manifold.
I believe the felpro head gasket set and full gasket set come with both versions of the TB gasket. Don't buy it from Rock Auto on closeout, it will be a knockoff. Amazon $92 or so.