4ZE1 Fuel Injection to Carburetor Conversion Tutorial
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That looks like the intake from a G200 1.9L, from an 85 or 84 Trooper or maybe a PuP. It could also be from a G180 from 83 back to Chevy LUVs in 76. I think I see a large port for a mixture control valve though which wasn't on any of the LUVs that I've owned. At any rate, it is not from a 2.3L 86 Trooper. I bet if you put a 2.6L intake gasket up to that you'll find the openings on that manifold are a fair bit smaller.bmw2002 said:
The Offy intake has the same bolt pattern and should be very much like what you have there. If the intake runners aren't too small it should bolt up. If the intakes are small it might still work well if matched up to the ports on the head.
Thanks for the info 800xl. I have a 2.3 intake to use now. But since the bolt pattern is the same I may try to track down an Offy and see if it will work. I don't know if the Offy flows much more air than the 2.3 though because it is made for a smaller engine. If it will give me a power gain to use the Offy than it is worth trying.
Shooter, the write up says that the block-off plate for the mechanical fuel pump should be between the intake manifold and the head; however, the picture shows the plate mounted on the outside face of the intake manifold. Can you mount the plate on the outside face, use a little RTV and install nuts on the studs? Which is it my friend?
Also, what did you do to plug the vapor lines running out of the driver's side of the head?
Love the fact you eliminated the EGR valve. I started a post last week wanting to do exactly what you have done and I got my hand slapped by a few guys on the forum... Any pros/cons to the decision?
Also, what did you do to plug the vapor lines running out of the driver's side of the head?
Love the fact you eliminated the EGR valve. I started a post last week wanting to do exactly what you have done and I got my hand slapped by a few guys on the forum... Any pros/cons to the decision?
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There's actually 2 plates involved with the fuel pump. The actual pump replacement plate on the exterior manifold and the brass shim stock on the opposite side. Any vacuum fittings remaining were capped with vacuum line fitting caps. The assorted vinyl colored ones last much longer than the black rubber ones. Silicone ones are the best. I too caught a little flack. As I like to say, "screw 'em". March on with your project.cjreed10 said:
Yeah, what is it with those black rubber caps anymore???shooter said:
Cheap china rubber?
I didn't think I should trust the vinyl ones, but after my experience with the rubber ones, and your recommendation here, I am going to re-think that.
I wonder if I can get the silicone ones in larger sizes, and I wonder if they would last as caps on a steel coolant line?
Shooter... Just to clarify, there is a metal plate on the outside of the manifold (the blue plate in the picture). There is also a brass shim between the gasket and the manifold. Both plates are custom made.
Also, how did you plug the exhaust ports on the opposite side of the head. The small holes located above the exhaust manifold. Did you just plug them with bolts?
Also, how did you plug the exhaust ports on the opposite side of the head. The small holes located above the exhaust manifold. Did you just plug them with bolts?
The brass "shim" plate is usually sandwiched between the manifold and head because it is so thin. A "plate", like 1/4" thick, could be used on the outside of the manifold where the fuel pump used to bolt. I would use sealer around either one. Most people plug the "AIR pump" holes by cutting off the fittings from he AIR manifold and welding up the short tubes that go inside the fittings. Some have used modified metric drain plugs, but why spend the extra money.
For me, the jury is still out on EGRs. Back in the day, disabling them made a huge difference on the old Chevys on performance and gas mileage. I imagine with a carb system, it may be beneficial to an Isuzu. Several folks feel both ways on eliminating EGR with the ITEC fuel injection. Jeff (Selador), seems to have improved his gas mileage by his going EGR not working. I'm all for improved gas mileage. Dennis
For me, the jury is still out on EGRs. Back in the day, disabling them made a huge difference on the old Chevys on performance and gas mileage. I imagine with a carb system, it may be beneficial to an Isuzu. Several folks feel both ways on eliminating EGR with the ITEC fuel injection. Jeff (Selador), seems to have improved his gas mileage by his going EGR not working. I'm all for improved gas mileage. Dennis
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Yeah Jeff the black rubber ones are junk. Might be the vapors, heat, both. Have had no issues with the vinyl ones. Not sure how large they go in silicone. Bought a large assortment of them when I was doing the conversion. Evidently my shop ate them.Selador said:
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Bump for a great tutorial.
I just read through this all again because I will be tackling this swap soon.
A few questions:
Did you make all the block off plates, or did you purchase them?
If I keep the EGR system, can the 2.6 valve and pipe be used, or do I need the 2.3 stuff?
If I delete the EGR system, what do I use to block the hole in the header?
I just read through this all again because I will be tackling this swap soon.
A few questions:
Did you make all the block off plates, or did you purchase them?
If I keep the EGR system, can the 2.6 valve and pipe be used, or do I need the 2.3 stuff?
If I delete the EGR system, what do I use to block the hole in the header?
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A 1/2" pipe plug with lots of Teflon tape can be make to work, but it really doesn't "fit".electricpuppyboy said:
EGR bung is M22x1.5. you can buy a plug to fit or use the threaded fitting from the EGR pipe, cut the pipe in two, slide the fitting off, tap the inside for whatever plug/bolt that fits. This method works on both the intake & exhaust side.
A 22m x 1.25 bolt will do the job.electricpuppyboy said:
But they also make a 'plug' especially for the purpose. You'll just have to do some searching to find it.
I found one in an OLD auto parts place. There was no name, or description of it's purpose, on the thing or the drawer I found it in. Just a description of the threads. (As I said 22m x 1.25) And it looked like a very short 22m bolt with a large flange around the head.
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oldestisuzuist said:
Uh oh...Which one is it?Selahdoor said:
After oldestisuzuist replied, a search turned this up:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0373909230
I was not as lucky searching for M22-1.25.
I could be wrong about the 1.25. It could be 1.5. I don't have anything like a package to refer to. And it would be impossible for me to get in there and see what it says, now. LOLelectricpuppyboy said:
The one I bought only had about half as long of a threaded portion as the one in your link.
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AgreedSelahdoor said:
I suppose I would want to make this one shorter too (as to not block the exhaust).Selahdoor said:
I'll probably pick one of these up from Napa, and if it works, I'll get another for the other end. I'll post back here with results.
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Thanks Shooter!
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I just dug my stock exhaust manifold out of the weeds & checked the EGR bung with a M22x1.5 tap-it fits.electricpuppyboy said:
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Sweet! Thanks!oldestisuzuist said:
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