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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought this Trooper and an unable to get the 4wd to work. When I engage the 4wd in either hi or low, you can feel that the transfer case has engaged and the light on the dash goes on. I thought everything was working fine, however, I got stuck a couple times and can see that only the back wheels are spinning when it happens. Of course, this truck has auto-locking hubs which don't seem to be the choice for anyone who is serious about wheeling.

I'm not new to mechanics in general, but I have never had any experience working on a 4wd. I confident I won't have any problems repairing/replacing whatever parts need it, I just don't know how to diagnose the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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sound like the auto hubs aren't engaging. if you search you will find this has been covered a lot as has how to diagnose. Best is just to replace the hubs with manuals and repack the front bearings while you are in there. there are pics and a description of the hub part in this thread.
http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic ... =red+beans
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So, I did some more searching around and it seems like the most likely culprit is that the c-clip has popped off. Expecting to find that, I crawled under to have a look. This is what I found on the drivers side.



Following the advise of this forum, I tried to rotate the front drive shaft while in 2wd. It spins freely in either direction without stopping. I was expecting that it would only spin for about half a turn. As it spins, the CV axle on the passenger side spins as well as does the drivers side. Drivers side doesn't spin quite so freely, but it does spin. I'm assuming that the stickiness is related to the bad boot. I can also spin one of the CV axles in one direction and the other side will rotate in the opposite direction, but can only turn those about 1/4 of a rotation.

I know I need a new CV axle, but what does all this say about the condition of the hubs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Passenger side

So...... will this CV axle work if I put on manual hubs or is it time to replace the whole thing? I'm guessing the auto hubs won't work anymore because the end part of the axle is chewed off but I seem to recall some comments that the inner part is what is used with the manual hubs.
 

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The recess used for the clip associated with the manual hubs (AISIN and some others) is located on the splined section. That section of the splines is gone in your pic therefore, it needs replacing.
 

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I'd bet my 90 has the same issues. I'm goint to swap the CV's and swap Aisin hubs onto it....so no longer have as much grief.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I finally made it out to the local salvage yard and rummaged through the only 1st generation Trooper they had. Lucky for me, the axle I needed was still on the truck and in good shape. I was also able to get both headlights, a new glove box, some misc. plastic dash parts and a few other small details that have been bugging me. I can finally see at night!!!!

I replaced the axle and all went rather smoothly. When done, I put the entire truck up on jack stands to see if the front wheels were turning correctly. I simply don't know enough about 4x4 systems so I will sound like an idiot for asking, but heres my question. Is the driver side the one that really turns in 4high? The passenger side is the one with the new axle, and that wheel was spinning until my buddy put he foot against it. That stopped it and it wouldn't start back up. The driver side turns and continues to do so even after trying to stop it with the foot trick. Something about limited slip differentials keeps popping into my head, but I really don't know anything about it. Could someone help explain this to me? I'm afraid that something is wrong with the locking hub on that same side. Drivers side is still in good shape and the tension clip that holds the axle to the hub is still in tact.
 

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That's how it is with an open differential. Torque is applied evenly to both wheels. If you lose traction on one, you lose torque (traction) to both. Limited-slip allows "some" torque applied under those same conditions. A locking differential (locker) applies torque to both or all (2 lockers) even if the vehicle is upside down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, Shooter. So for an every day driver, this is best. Otherwise your tires wear faster and bark at you while turning. Am I getting it right? I didn't even think to try it in 4low. Would I have seen the same thing but it would be using a lower gear ratio?

I'm anxious to take it out to the beach but am nervous since I got stuck last time. I'm hoping I got the 4wd fixed so I can start pulling out stuck Lexus this summer!
 

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It's fine for normal everyday use. Some prefer limited-slip. If you have manual hubs and the need ever arises, you can leave the hubs in the open or unlocked position, drop the transfer to 4-wheel low and you'll have 2-wheel low. That can be handy at times. Go find you some googles on driving in the sand, on the beach, etc. Good luck and have fun on the beach.
 

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Two wheel low is really handy,I use it occasionally when backing a trailer with limited maneuverability where 4 wheel drive isn't needed. Sure beats abusing the clutch when you really need to just creep along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·


Well, as you can see, the 4wd is working and I was able to easily get past the deep soft sand and work my way out towards the end of the island. The only problem I have now is an obnoxiously loud banging sound every time I hip a bump. Something is getting slammed around pretty hard and I have no idea what it is, but it needs to be addressed. Sounds like its coming from the driver side possibly in the front wheel. It's hard to tell because it hits so hard and rattles the whole truck pretty good. I slowed WAY down and the noise went away but I'm sure it's because the bumps were so much cmoother at real slow speeds. Any ideas what to start looking for?
 

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Great looking trooper. I'd open the hood and with hands, bar etc start with the exhaust manifold and work back to the tail pipe. I would then go back to the front and do the same with suspension parts, skid plates, etc. Sometimes you need to raise the vehicle and do it in such a manner as to relieve any load on the component of which you're suspicious.
 
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